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  • Learn to make a photo box / light box to take pictures of dollhouse miniatures by IGMA Artist Stephanie Brown
    side of the panel Again score 4 times depending on the pressure you apply and on the forth time the panel will start to sound ï ½crunchyï ½ on that fourth cut It will also be harder to make a pass on the fourth cut Enlarge picture showing where to begin scoring TIP You will need a straight edge to hold the score line as you prepare to and bend the score line This is where the framing square came in handy but any metal ruler that is big should work If you donï ½t have anything like that you can use any strong item that is straight Just make sure it is wide enough to keep you fingers out of the way Iï ½m going to put this in all caps because it is important 14 To bend you must turn the panel over and bend with rough side up This should not take much pressure If it is hard to bend turn back over to the smooth side and score again Shows the panel breaking in half Enlarge picture showing how to prepare to bend the panel 15 Panel broken in half Enlarge picture showing panel in half 16 Again you will have extra pieces left over after these cuts You will not need them for the light box so it s a good idea to keep these in case you break your box and need to replace a section Enlarge picture to showing the extra panel pieces after cutting 17 Shows your completed panels Enlarge picture showing completed panels 18 Layout your panels as shown in the image Make sure at this point that you have the smooth side of the panels facing up these will be the inside of your box also take a few moments to look at the inside edges of your squares where all the points touch the center square and make sure you line them up perfectly They should all touch each other without some being larger on the corners than others All the points should touch Enlarge picture showing how to lay out panels TIP Due to the fact that most people wanted their boxes to come apart we taped this one together If you donï ½t want your box to come apart you will need another person to help you to hold the panels together while you glue your panels Make sure your glue is clear strong and bonds fast This box is not the strongest thing in the world so if you have a brainstorm and find a way that works better for you definitely do it Leave no gaps between your squares 19 This step shows how you will need to begin taping Use three 3 panels first and tape the smooth side only Tape will not stick to the rough side of the panels Repeat this process till your first three 3 panels are taped After they are taped line up the next two making sure of

    Original URL path: http://www.cdhm.org/tutorials/learn-to-make-a-photo-box.html (2016-04-27)
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  • Learn needle felting a miniature bear with Artist Sarah-Jane Waller
    of wool Enlarge picture showing balls of wool for the ears 55 Before you begin punching note that this time you will need to punch at the back turn punch turn punch at the front then turn again This will create a flatter piece Enlarge picture showing punching method for the ears 56 Continue punching and turning Enlarge picture showing the ear pieces 57 You will have a rough edge of the piece you are holding Enlarge picture showing rough edge 58 Now you need to punch on the inside of the ear This is to create a small indent in the middle Enlarge picture showing how to create the indent 59 Take a small piece of equal amounts of brown wool and split into two separate pieces Enlarge picture showing the brown wool 60 You will need to punch two separate but equal sized round balls Set aside Enlarge picture showing how to create two round balls for the ears 61 Return to the white cream ear piece that you were working on continue to shape the ear Enlarge picture of the original cream white ears 62 Continuing shaping until you have a tear drop shaped ear Once finished forming the ears set aside Enlarge picture showing how you need to continue shaping the ears 63 Now retrieve the two pieces of brown wool you previously created and place it in the indent of the cream white ear Enlarge picture showing where to put the brown punch wool into the ear piece 64 Punch the brown ball into the indent area of the ear piece making the brown wool as flat as possible Enlarge picture showing where to punch the brown wool into the ear 65 After punching the brown wool into the ear piece your ear should look like the image in the front Enlarge picture showing final ear piece 66 If you flip over the ear you may find that the back of the ear piece is showing the brown wool Don t worry about the brown showing through at this stage when the ears are attached to the head you will be able to fix this Enlarge picture showing the brown wool showing 67 Now you have two completed ears Set aside Enlarge picture showing completed ears 68 Take the head and place one ear on the side of the head Move the ear around until you are satisfied with a position Enlarge picture showing where to place the ear TIP For people who have not needle felted before please place the head on the foam and hold the ear atop the head first Then punch through the ear into the head fixing the ear to the head with the needle 69 Begin punching the ear onto the head Enlarge picture showing how to attach the ear to the head 70 Continue punching the ear onto the head working all the way around Enlarge picture showing where to punch the ear onto the ear 71 Keep punching until the ear is firmly attached on the head Enlarge picture showing how to firmly attach ear 72 Now place the other ear exactly opposite the placement of the first ear Keep your fingers out the way of the needle and begin punching Enlarge picture showing the attachment of the second ear 73 Work the back of the ear punching firmly Enlarge picture showing the punching routine on the back 74 Work the front of the ear Keep repeating until you have both ears firmly attached to the head Enlarge picture showing the punching routine on the front 75 Ears firmly attached Enlarge picture showing ears attached TIP If the back of the ears are solid white cream then you can skip Steps 76 78 and go directly to Step 79 76 Place the head on the foam and take a tiny bit of cream white wool and place it over the brown exposed wool Enlarge picture showing how to cover the exposed brown wool 77 Gently punch at it until the brown color is covered by the cream color Enlarge picture showing how to cover the brown wool by punching 78 This image will show you how the brown fibers can be covered up by the cream color after carefully punching a bit of wool Enlarge picture showing covered ear 79 Now we need to return to the body of the bear Tidy up the belly gently punching any rough edges Enlarge picture showing how to clear any rough spots on the body 80 Make sure that the belly portion of the body is nice and round Enlarge picture showing how to round belly 81 The brown wool should be in a circular plump area like a belly Enlarge picture showing completed belly 82 Thread your regular sewing needle with cotton thread I use a double thread You need a nice long length you do not want to have to re thread You will begin sewing to embed the glass eyes Enlarge picture showing the threaded sewing needle 83 Take your needle up through the base of the head Enlarge picture showing where to insert the needle 84 Then pull out through the eye socket Enlarge picture showing where to pull the needle out 85 Take the needle and insert in the basic same area then reverse of what you just did This stitch is to secure the thread Enlarge picture showing the reverse stitch 86 Retrieve one glass eye Place the glass eye on your needle as shown Enlarge picture showing how to prepare the glass eye 87 Thread it through to the bears eye socket Enlarge picture showing how to thread the eye TIP At no time cut the thread Leave it as a whole piece If your thread tangles knot it off and re thread your needle and start again Don t attempt to pull the thread out because you will pull your felting apart 88 Take your needle through the head Enlarge picture showing

    Original URL path: http://www.cdhm.org/tutorials/learn-to-needlefelt-a-bear.html (2016-04-27)
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  • Learn to make dolls house curtains with Elwendell aka Artist Vanessa Parry
    impossible Silk is one of the few fabrics I ve found that doesn t seem to spread open after a while So it s ideal if you want to make straight curtains The best fabrics are cotton and silk or fabrics with a high percentage of either 10 Both curtains have been pleated now Enlarge picture showing completed pleats TIP You can stop here if you want a straight pair of curtains Spray your curtains with hairspray and set them aside to dry Make sure the curtains are good and wet If you want tie backs for your curtains continue with the next steps I recommend using the tie back method as lots of fabrics will spread after hanging a while leaving you with curtains wider at the hem than at the top 11 To make the tie backs cut two strips of fabric 3 long by wide Enlarge picture showing size of fabric for tie backs 12 Turn in one side of the length and make a hem Glue along the edge press down then glue to the opposite side Enlarge picture showing where to fold the hem line 13 You should end up with two long strips about half an inch wide Enlarge picture showing tie backs 14 Measure up your curtains at the card edged side somewhere between 2 and 1 from the bottom hem The longer the curtain you are making the greater the distance I would use 2 inches for an 8 inch long curtain and 1 inch for a 5 inch curtain Mark this point by pushing a pin through the fabric and into the foam pad Mark both curtains this way at the same time This way you ensure they are both the same This step is difficult so be patient with yourself Using a pin gently push the fold nearest your card edge towards the pin you ve just placed and pin it in position close against the card Repeat this with the second pleat Enlarge picture showing how to begin pleating 15 You cannot move more pleats up close unless you remove some of the pins now From the hem and possibly from further up too Try not to remove any pins above your tie back if you can help it Carefully remove the remaining pins between your tie back area and the hem If you re very careful about it the folds will still be visible so that you can then drag them up to the edge of the curtain at the tie back mark too Enlarge picture showing how to make the second pleat 16 This will leave you with a fan like section below your tie back Carefully drag the folds back so that they lie parallel to the card edge and pin them in place Continue with pleating Enlarge picture showing the set up for the second pleat 17 You should now have two very realistic looking pleated curtains and the last step is easy Using your

    Original URL path: http://www.cdhm.org/tutorials/make-dollhouse-miniature-drapes-curtains.html (2016-04-27)
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  • Learn how to sculpt 1/12 scale three layer wedding cake by IGMA Artist Vicki Sharkey
    about 10 of roses as well Enlarge picture showing how to make a rose in bloom 8 Here are the different shapes you should have been working with to complete the rose Enlarge picture showing showing different sizes of polymer clay TIP Talc is important it keeps the clay from getting too mushy 9 Next roll out the paler tone clay and cut out ten large flower blossoms using the 2 3 cutter Gently squeeze the petals between talc powder with your fingers to soften the edges Take the razor blade and make slight cuts towards the middle This makes it easier to wrap around the middle Repeat with all ten blossoms Enlarge picture showing the next color of clay 10 Take one of the rose buds and place it in the middle of the flower you made from the cutter above Wrap the pale clay around the middle of the rose bud Overlap the petals of the larger piece around the bud Tweak the petals to make them more realistic then squeeze the base and cut flat Place the completed rose on the tile to bake Set aside If the middles are too large you can always trim them a bit using the razor blade Enlarge picture showing how to place the petals TIP An alternative to would be to make individual petals In this option you can place the petals around the middle bud Just flatten small balls of clay between your fingers and shape petals in the shapes you like 11 Now mix a small amount of the darker and lighter shades of clay into a ball Flatten the ball as thinly as possible Cut out about 12 tiny blossoms as shown Rub some talc onto the palm of your hand and then using the ball toll tool indent Put one blossom into the palm of your hand and move the ball toll in a circular motion in the centre of the flower gently The flower should rotate and start to cup upwards When you have achieved the look you want Place onto the tile ready for baking Repeat with the others Enlarge picture showing how to attach the petals TIP If you haven t used a paper punch before it is quite easy as long as the clay is thin enough It may stick so you could use a needle to flick it off 12 Ok flowers done now onto the leaves Take a marble sized piece of half and half white polymer clay and translucent clay Mix with a small amount of leaf green clay until you get a shade that tones in with your flowers Roll out as thinly as possible Using the tear cutter or leaf punch cut out several leaf shapes Enlarge picture showing how to make the leaves 13 After you have made several leaves mark the middle vein with a needle or sharp tool You will need additional leaves if you are using a smaller punch Recommend at least 12

    Original URL path: http://www.cdhm.org/tutorials/learn-to-sculpt-miniature-cake.html (2016-04-27)
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  • How to make doll house miniature breakfast from Polymer Clay, by IGMA Fellow Betsy Niederer
    being exceptionally neat it s not a big deal for this cane since bacon is not straight Enlarge picture showing the flattened bacon cane 17 Flatten out a slightly thinner layer of fat and layer this on top of the meat color Again don t worry about being too neat about it Enlarge picture showing insertion of fat clay into meat cane 18 Here s where you can get a little bit creative with your layering to make your bacon look real with chunks of meat running through the fat instead of just making stripes For this layer I formed the meat colored clay into a sort of long tear drop shape only about half as wide as the clay slab The layering doesn t have to be perfect because you will be adding texture and color later Enlarge picture showing insertion of fat clay into meat cane 19 Here you can see that I have added the same sized strip of fat colored clay beside meat clay This will make up the 4th layer half of it will be meat color and half will be fat color The fat color clay should be a little bit tapered on one side so it fits over the meat Enlarge picture showing how to layer the bacon cane 20 Cover up the meat part with another piece of the fat colored clay Then you can put one more thin layer of meat color clay on as the top layer reference the arrow That should be about enough You don t want the bacon to look too stripey Enlarge picture showing last layer of the bacon cane 21 This is the cane with the last piece of meat colored clay on top I didn t cover the entire top of the cane with the brown red clay just about 3 4ths of it To reduce the bacon cane You can start reducing this right away you don t have to let it sit and cool off unless your clay is really mushy then just pop it in the fridge for a few minutes We want this cane to be long and thin so gently press the cane with your thumbs all over the length being sure to use equal pressure all over and gradually lengthen it by gently pulling it apart as shown By pressing and gently pulling your clay this will move the way you want it to Go slowly If you reduce it too fast it might get smaller than you want it Also if the cane starts looking too wide we want to keep it around the width of your index finger you can gently press the sides back into shape and continue to lengthen it Enlarge picture showing how to thin the cane 22 Here s what it looks like from the side as you reduce the cane Enlarge picture showing side view of the bacon cane 23 When it s about 5 wide around 1 7cm and 3 16 inch 7cm thick you re done Cut into the center of the cane and it should look something like this Don t panic if it doesn t look exactly the same Even a remote approximation is going to work out just fine Enlarge picture showing size of bacon cane 24 Time to slice it up If your clay is warm you might want to wait on this for a few minutes You can also put your cane in the freezer to firm it up before you cut it You want nice thin slices Slice up as many as you want I always make more than I think I need because I usually wind up ripping some and generally goofing up Even if you get a partial slice that s fine we can use it Try to get them as thin as you can Enlarge picture showing sliced cane 25 This is what I m after You ll notice that not all of my slices look the same I sliced the bacon in this image from another part of the cane Again bacon slices are not always the same sizes Enlarge picture showing sliced bacon 26 Press your bacon slices on to your tile to secure them then dust them with some talc cornstarch or chalk so the tops are less likely to stick We need to texture them Enlarge picture showing how to powder the bacon 27 Texture your bacon with sand paper tap the pieces gently so they stick to the tile If they come off on the sand paper you can coax them off with a pin If they rip don t worry about it that s why you made extras Enlarge picture showing how to texture the bacon 28 This is where they start looking more like cooked bacon Use a small soft brush gently color the edges with the Burnt Green Earth or medium brown chalk pastel Use a light hand don t coat the whole strip just the edges and maybe a little bit in the center We re going to add more color later too The whole time you re doing this think about how a real bacon strip looks like Enlarge picture showing how to highlight the bacon 29 After your bacon has a bit of color grab your toothpick or pin and gently gnarl up the edges just a bit Enlarge picture showing how to rough the edges of the bacon 30 When bacon cooks it shrinks and gets bubbly on the edges and sometimes curls up in the center Very gently slide your blade under the bacon and very very carefully lift it off of the tile so we can shape it Enlarge picture showing how to shape the bacon 31 Gently drape the center of the bacon slice over the thin end of a toothpick You can bake the slice just like this the toothpick won t burn The slice will retain its shape when cured Enlarge picture showing

    Original URL path: http://www.cdhm.org/tutorials/learn-to-sculpt-miniature-breakfast.html (2016-04-27)
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  • Learn to sculpt a 1/12 scale parrot with IGMA Fellow Kerri Pajutee
    a perch or branch However if you find assembling these feet too difficult merely replace them with two strands of twisted wire without the toes and advance to baking your parrot sculpt 21 Measure out and cut 2 4 5 lengths of 31 32 gauge wire 0 226 0 200 millimeters also called bead wire Enlarge picture showing length of wire 22 Parrots have a unique toe arrangement This photo shows a typical bird toe arrangement compared to a parrot toe arrangement 2 toes forward and 2 toes back Enlarge picture showing parrot feet 23 Take your 4 5 wire strand in hand and bend into a 90 degree angle at about 1 This point will be the beginning of the leg and where you will start the first toe loop Enlarge picture showing where to bend the wire 24 You will need a toothpick or cocktail stick for this next step Take your wire and begin to wrap it once around the toothpick Enlarge picture showing how to wrap the wire 25 Make a single loop and twist the long end of your wire several times around Enlarge picture showing how to make a single loop and twist 26 Next take a pair of tweezers and grip the long ends of the wire Using the tip of your toothpick inserted into the loophole twist the wire in the direction of the loop Twist several times The photo shows what twisted toe 1 should look like You are now ready to begin toe 2 Enlarge picture showing where to use the tweezers and twist TIP When working with extremely fine wire you only need to twist the wire a few times Do not over twist or twist too tightly as your wire will break and you will have to start over 27 To start toe 2 take the long end of the wire and make another loop around the toothpick Enlarge picture showing how to make the second toe 28 Repeating Step 24 Grip the end with tweezers while using the tip of your toothpick inserted into the loophole Twist the wire in the direction of the loop several times Your parrot feet wire should look similar to the photo example Enlarge picture showing steps using the tweezers 29 Before beginning toe 3 bend the first two toes downward Doing this will give you room to complete the two remaining toes Enlarge picture showing how to make the third toe 30 Begin toe 3 in the same manner as toe 1 and toe 2 Loop your wire around the toothpick and twist Enlarge picture showing how to loop the wire 31 Grip the end of toe 3 with tweezers while using the tip of your toothpick inserted into the loophole Twist the wire in the direction of the loop several times You have completed toe 3 and your wire should look similar to the photo example Keep with it You have completed 3 toes so far and have one more to go Enlarge picture showing the three completed toes 32 Begin toe 4 by looping your wire around the toothpick and twist several times You got it just like the previous steps finish twisting toe 4 using the tip of your toothpick Enlarge picture showing how to make the fourth toe 33 When you have completed toe 4 your wire parrot feet should look similar to the photo example Enlarge picture showing parrot foot after four toes 34 Now that you have mastered the toes you will need to finish twisting the leg wires together Begin by taking the two long ends of wire and bend them upwards The long ends of wire are marked with a yellow X in the example photo Enlarge picture showing how to finish the leg wires 35 To twist the two leg wires together first grip the toe ends with tweezers Next begin to twist the two leg wires together You do not have to twist all of the remaining wire lengths only twist until your leg reaches the length of 1 2 Patience is key here Take your time and do not twist too tightly or your wire may break Enlarge picture showing the twisting of the wire legs 36 Finally clip the leg wire with scissors Do not worry if some of your toes appear longer than the others You will fine tune these in the next step Enlarge picture showing where to snip the wire TIP It may seem that you are wasting wire in this process by clipping away the excess For this project I thought it would be easier to use a longer wire length As you get better at making your wire parrot feet you may chose to cut and use a shorter length so you don t have to trim away as much excess in the end In the next couple of steps you will fine tune your wire parrot feet 37 To begin fine tuning take hold of the twisted leg end with your fingers With a pair of tweezers in hand finish out the toes by pinching the tiny end loops flat Pinch all four toes Enlarge picture showing how to fine tune the feet 38 Bravo You now have one completed parrot foot Don t do a happy dance yet you still need to complete one more parrot foot Take a breath and go back to Steps 21 thru Step 35 repeating the entire process Then meet me back here at STEP 37 Enlarge picture showing one completed foot 39 When you have completed your parrot feet you may chose to clip the toes a bit shorter depending on how may times you twist the wire or if one or two of your toes appear a bit longer Just take a pair of scissors and snip back the toes until you are happy with the results Be careful not to snip too much toe or you will have to make another foot Enlarge picture

    Original URL path: http://www.cdhm.org/tutorials/learn-to-sculpt-a-miniature-parrot.html (2016-04-27)
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  • Learn to flock and feather a 1/12 scale parrot with IGMA Fellow Kerri Pajutee
    picture showing additional feather trimmings Q It also appears that you are bending the spine of the feathers like this instead of a straight line from top to bottom A No bending It may be that you are seeing how the hen saddle type of feather slightly curves a bit It s best to have a straighter feather spine 26 Take your fourth and final tail feather and apply it in the middle of the underside of the tail section This feather should slightly overlap your feather trimmings Gently push the feather into the glue to set Bravo You are finished with feathering the tail section of your parrot Set your parrot sculpt aside as you will now start to trim the wing feathers for application Enlarge picture showing the final tail feather application BEFORE THE NEXT STEP You will trim two 2 sets of wing feathers First the primaries the longer wing tip feathers and second the primary coverts the smaller second row of overlapping feathers Cut 8 primary wing feathers approximately 3 8 to less than inch in length depending on the actual size of your parrot sculpt If you are not sure trim a feather and hold it up to where you would glue it to your parrot wing and gauge the length from there Next cut 8 10 primary covert wing feathers approximately inch or less in length Again use your judgment depending on the size of your actual parrot sculpt You will use these tiny feathers as a second row by applying them to just barely overlap your first row of longer primary feathers If you are creating a sun conure color pattern you will want to cut some yellow primary coverts shown in the photo 27 In this photo I have cut feathers of different colors green light green yellow Again if you chose to make a sun conure parrot you will need some yellow primary covert feathers If you are making a jendaya conure you can cut all green feathers Enlarge picture showing different colors of feathers 28 The following diagram shows approximately where you will glue your 4 primary wing feathers Enlarge picture showing the wing diagram 29 Begin by applying a small amount of glue along the wing as shown in photo Enlarge picture showing where to apply glue to the wing 30 With your tweezers take one of the long primary feathers and place it onto the wing glue at an angle Press gently to set It might be easier to hold you parrot by the head during this process being careful not to get your fingers into the glue Enlarge picture showing where to place the primary feather 31 Once the first wing feather is in place pick up the second primary feather with your tweezers and set it into the glue next to the first feather Your feather should slightly overlap the previous feather Enlarge picture showing the placement of the second feather 32 Repeat this process with the next two feathers so you have a total of four primary feathers on each wing Enlarge picture showing the repeat process 33 Once you have all four primary feathers in place on one side you will want to repeat the steps on the other Holding your parrot by its head so as not to press into your glued wing feathers apply the glue With your tweezers take one of the long primary feathers and place it into the glue at an angle crossing over the first set of wing feathers See photo example Press gently to set Enlarge picture showing placement of feathers 34 Continue to apply the remaining three primary feathers into place slightly overlapping them Enlarge picture continuing to apply the remaining three primary feathers 35 When you are finished you should have four primaries feathers on each wing Enlarge picture showing four primaries feathers 36 Once you have all your primary feathers in place its time to add the smaller primary covert feathers These feathers will be glued to the wings above the primary feathers This second row of feathers will consist of at least 4 on each side If you are creating a sun conure this row should be yellow If you are making a jendaya color pattern this row will be green Apply glue Enlarge picture showing placement of smaller primary covert feathers 37 With tweezers place a primary covert feather onto the glue just slightly overlapping your primary row Continue to apply these feathers one by one until you have placed all four You can use your tweezer ends or finger to gently press into the glue to set See photo example Enlarge picture showing placement of smaller primary covert feathers TIP Depending on the size of your parrot you may decide that you want to add one or two more primary covert feathers If you notice that you have areas on the wing that look as if they need another feather or two just trim a few more and add them where needed You are the artist 38 Once you have finished applying the primary covert feathers on the first wing You will need to repeat the same process on the other wing First apply the glue Then with your tweezers place a small primary covert onto the glue slightly overlapping the first row of primary feathers With tweezers place the second third final fourth feather into place Here I have selected a Jendaya conure color pattern so I have placed both primary primary covert feathers in green Enlarge picture showing the repeat process of Step 36 TIP You may feel that your parrots wing does not need to be trimmed with an X acto knife at this stage thats O K I do this to remove any bulk feathers and uneven edges before I glue the next layer of feathers and flock Use your own judgment its your parrot sculpt 39 If you have finished applying both primary primary covert feathers

    Original URL path: http://www.cdhm.org/tutorials/learn-to-flock-and-feather-a-miniature-parrot.html (2016-04-27)
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  • Learn to sculpt 1/12 scale dollhouse miniature apples with Italian Artist Barbara Dezza
    layer of clay 10 Here is the thin roll Enlarge picture showing clay after rolling 11 Place the off white beige clay cylinder onto the green strip of clay Enlarge picture showing the combining of inner and outer clays of apple 12 Wrap the green clay around the lighter colored clay cut off any excess making the inside clay fit to the edges as shown Enlarge picture showing the rolled clays 13 Begin working the clay from the center working your way to the edges Enlarge picture showing how to roll the clay 14 Lengthen the cane by continuing to roll from the center to the edges Roll until you have an approximate diameter of around half centimeter approx 0 20 inch Enlarge picture showing approximate length you want to achieve 15 Once you have the diameter you want cut the cane in long segments around 6 7 millimeters approx 0 27 inch Enlarge picture showing size of cuts 16 Take one of the cut segments With your fingers softly close the two ends of the segment Form a little ball to form the apple shape Do not mush the clay in the center Now slightly lengthened making the base more narrow spherical shaped Enlarge picture showing how to shape the basic apple 17 Use your Wilton Industries flower tool to indent the top part of the apple hollow Enlarge picture showing where to use the tool 18 Using your toothpick make a small indentation hole and score slightly around the hole Enlarge picture showing where to use the toothpick 19 Take a small piece of terracotta polymer clay and roll into an oblong shape to use for the stem Cut a 1 8 inch length for the stems Set aside Enlarge picture showing how to make the apple stem 20 With your toothpick slightly score around the bottom hole of the apple and insert a tiny piece of the terracotta clay into the hole Enlarge picture showing how to score the bottom of the apple 21 How it should look after you ve added the terracotta clay Enlarge picture showing scored bottom 22 Take a piece of the terracotta stem and insert into the top hole you made with the Wilton Industriesï ½ tool Enlarge picture showing where to insert the stem 23 Voilï ½ the completed apples Enlarge picture showing completed apples VARIATIONS You have completed making green apples In the following steps you will learn how to take the apples that you just made and create variations including a half apple apples slices and core apples But before you begin you will need to cure the apples you just made for at least an hour or place in the refrigerator for around ten minutes Donï ½t let the clay near your real food though Rushing this will result in clay that is too soft 24 MAKE APPLE HALVES Using your razor blade cut one apple in half Remove the core Enlarge picture showing how to slice the

    Original URL path: http://www.cdhm.org/tutorials/learn-to-sculpt-miniature-apples.html (2016-04-27)
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