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  • FIDM Museum Blog: June 2011
    history or when a new acquisition features fur elements Despite any personal preferences we all understand that fur has been an integral element of human dress for thousands of years and it is therefore important to both document and study examples of fur in fashion Previously we ve written about our Ted Lapidus wolf and coyote fur coat and on issues arising from the use of feathers in fashion Monkey fur bolero c 1938 Gift of Steven Porterfield S2008 897 1 Continue reading Monkey fur coat c 1938 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 12 TrackBack 0 June 16 2011 LBD Little Black Dress An Homage to Breakfast at Tiffany s Fifty years ago Audrey Hepburn charmed audiences as Holly Golightly in the film Breakfast at Tiffany s Hepburn s chic film wardrobe including her iconic little black dress was designed by couturier Hubert de Givenchy To celebrate the fiftieth anniversary of this beloved film the FIDM Museum Galleries will display Givenchy s line for line recreation of the little black dress worn by Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany s The exhibition is open 10am 4pm Tuesday through Saturday until August 13 2011 As always admission is free During the exhibition a Speaker Series will explore the role of the LBD in fashion and society An announcement regarding speakers dates and topics will be forthcoming L to R Hubert de Givenchy re creation of the LBD from the opening scene of Breakfast at Tiffany s Courtesy of Hubert de Givenchy Couture Valentina c 1947 1950 FIDM Museum Collection Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel 1985 FIDM Museum Collection Additional examples of LBDs by both fashion and costume designers will allow us to examine the cultural impact of the LBD and its significance in film on the runway and to women around the

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/06/index.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: May 2011
    will testify our appreciation of its value Ladies Fancy Work 1876 Locks of hair have long served as sentimental and tangible reminders of deceased or far away friends and close relations Among family friends and romantic partners exchanging a lock of hair was a sign of mutual esteem and deep affection Upon the death of a loved one locks of hair were often cut and kept as a way to both honor and remember the dead As suggested by the opening quote hair degrades very slowly if carefully stored Thus hair was both an intimately personal souvenir of a specific person and an almost everlasting memento Objects made of human hair also served as memento mori or reminders of the transiency of human life for those who wore or owned them In its most basic form a hairwork memento consisted of a snippet of hair enclosed inside a locket or ring In these instances the hair was simply stored inside an item of jewelry There are also examples of hair used as a medium for creating two dimensional pictorial and abstract images such as this late 19th century panel featuring both hairwork patterns and an image of the deceased The most fascinating examples of hairwork consist of elaborate jewelry made almost entirely out of human hair This type of hairwork jewelry enjoyed peak popularity from the 1850s through the 1880s dying out almost entirely by the early years of the twentieth century Hairwork necklace 1850 1890 Gift of Andrea Tice 2008 46 101 Continue reading Hairwork jewelry Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 16 TrackBack 0 May 05 2011 Lana Turner s clutch 1952 Lana Turner s story is the stuff of Hollywood legends One afternoon in 1936 Turner skipped class at Hollywood High School to get a soda at

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/05/index.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: April 2011
    dress for historic and formal weddings The 1981 article referenced above also noted that women shouldn t wear full length dresses too formal or pants too casual Worn by Betsy Bloomingdale to the 1981 wedding of Charles and Diana this silk day dress fits the bill neither too long nor too short it was entirely appropriate for the occasion Day Dress Marc Bohan for Dior Spring Summer 1981 Silk crêpe silk chiffon Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 2006 116 78BC C Continue reading Dressing for a royal wedding Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 8 TrackBack 0 April 21 2011 19th century Spanish fans Paper fan Spain 1875 1899 Gift of Yvonne Hummel 2010 947 10 Folding fans printed or painted with Spanish genre scenes of bullfighters and dancers are relatively common in museum collections They generally date from the second half of the nineteenth century and are typically very large When open the fan above is 26 inches from point to point of the fan guards the outermost spines An 1897 article in Godey s Magazine noted this characteristic of Spanish fans describing them as extremely large and usually black and decorated with amusing scenes of Spanish life 1 The fan pictured above features indoor and outdoor views of a festive occasion similar to the Spanish fans described in Godey s Magazine If the image itself didn t give away its origin the fan is also labelled Madrid in applied gilt lettering Continue reading 19th century Spanish fans Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 April 08 2011 Agnés turban c 1940 42 Before World War II fashion reportage devoted equal consideration to millinery and clothing The newest toques and turbans from Paris milliners were described alongside the latest day and evening wear from Gabrielle Chanel Jean

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/04/index.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: March 2011
    30 p m screening of Bill Cunningham New York To enter for a chance to win leave a comment on this post between now and Sunday March 27 at 5 p m pacific time On Monday morning we ll notify one randomly selected winner If you haven t been following the buzz on this new film catch up via the Bill Cunningham New York Facebook page or on Twitter BCNYthemovie By all accounts it s a fantastic peek into the working life of Bill Cunningham dedicated and trailblazing street style photographer Bill Cunningham photographing in the street in BILL CUNNINGHAM NEW YORK A film by Richard Press A Zeitgeist Films release Photo credit First Thought Films Zeitgeist Films Bill Cunningham photographing in the street in BILL CUNNINGHAM NEW YORK A film by Richard Press A Zeitgeist Films release Photo credit First Thought Films Zeitgeist Films Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 4 TrackBack 0 March 24 2011 Lounge jacket 1880s Lounge or at home jacket Silk with cotton embroidery 1880s Museum Purchase 2008 5 34 We are excited to announce that our 1880s embroidered silk lounge jacket will be featured in The Cult of Beauty The Aesthetic Movement 1860 1900 Opening April 2 at the V A Museum in London this exhibition explores the arts of the Aesthetic Movement including painting sculpture design furniture architecture fashion and literature We are thrilled to contribute to this exhibition Continue reading Lounge jacket 1880s Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 March 17 2011 Hermѐs You ve come a long way Hermѐs Founded in 1837 by Parisian harness and saddle maker Thierry Hermѐs the House of Hermѐs is today a world renowned purveyor of luxury goods Building on the reputation of their highly regarded leather goods Hermѐs diversified its product line in the early twentieth century Though still producing high quality leather goods Hermѐs expanded into other accessories handbags wallets etc and garments like this late 1920s beach ensemble Hermѐs is also credited with being the first to introduce zippers into high fashion handbags and luggage In the early 1920s Hermѐs designed a leather jacket which fastened with a zipper According to the company the fashion forward Prince of Wales sanctioned the zippered jacket with a purchase leading to unexpectedly high volume sales 1 This anecdote suggests the spirit of innovation and experimentation that has helped Hermѐs remain relevant for the last 174 years Even today the most iconic Hermѐs products the Kelly and Birkin bags are made of leather A structured square handbag ornamented with a tiny lock the Kelly earned its name when Princess Grace of Monaco aka screen star Grace Kelly was photographed with the bag in the 1950s The Birkin bag similar to the Kelly bag but larger was created in 1981 for French chanteuse Jane Birkin Hand crafted from rare and exotic leathers both bags were sought after status items inspiring long waiting lists In 2010 the wait was apparently over According to this 2010 Glamour

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/03/index.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: February 2011
    society dressmaker in London under her married name Mrs James Wallace Her business expanded rapidly and by 1894 she operated under the name Maison Lucile eventually incorporating as Lucile Ltd in 1903 By this time Lucile s reputation was international In 1907 the American edition of Pearson s Magazine encouraged all American travelers to visit Lucile Ltd when in London as the proprietress was pleased to open wide her doors to all Americans even if they have no intention of purchasing 1 Within a few years Lucile would open international branches of her store to fulfil the demand for her designs Lucile Ltd New York opened in 1910 followed by a Paris store in 1911 and a Chicago store in 1915 Lucile c 1917 Gift of Anonymous Donor 91 40 5 Continue reading Lucile Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 February 14 2011 Straight to the heart Forget roses forget chocolate We ve got a better gift for you this Valentine s Day a selection of objects that address the theme of the day love Paul Poiret evening gown from La Gazette du Bon Ton 1922 No 22 FIDM Museum Special Collections Published between 1912 1925 every issue of the French fashion periodical La Gazette du Bon Ton featured witty illustrations of the latest fashions Penned by Georges Barbier Erté Paul Iribe Georges Lepape and others the illustrations placed the garments within an intriguing narrative Was it a romantic mishap or fashion rivalry that put the arrow through her heart Additional illustrations from La Gazette du Bon Ton can be seen here Continue reading Straight to the heart Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 February 11 2011 Return of the bustle In the 1880s the bustle made a comeback Last seen in the previous decade the bustle of the early to mid 1870s supported puffs and swags of fabric creating a rounded fullness which often ended with a short train Though exaggerated this silhouette still had a certain softness When the bustle returned in the 1880s it was more angular extending almost at a right angle from the waist This 1885 88 blue silk afternoon gown demonstrates the rigid shape of the 1880s bustle silhouette Given the shape and size of the 1880s bustle you d think it was supported by a large heavy apparatus Actually the 1880s bustle was usually quite small This c 1885 bustle is about 6 1 2 inches wide and 13 inches long Made of metal coils covered with tan cotton and secured at the waist with a twill ribbon and metal prong buckle this oddly shaped device was used to create the angular 1880s bustle silhouette Bustle Cotton wire c 1885 Museum Purchase 2005 5 174 Continue reading Return of the bustle Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 February 09 2011 19th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design Exhibition now open Did you see The King s Speech Alice in Wonderland or True Grit

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  • FIDM Museum Blog: January 2011
    Mrs Alfred Himelson 97 350 1 Continue reading Newsprint fashion Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 January 19 2011 Day ensemble 1870 72 Day ensemble Silk taffeta 1870 72 Gift of Anne Stampfer 94 661 1A D About 1868 the crinoline silhouette went out of style The smooth distinctly bell like shape of the crinoline supported skirt began to change form with the fullness moving towards the back of the shirt This new skirt shape required a different kind of understructure the bustle Essentially a cage crinoline cut in half the bustle supported the back of the skirt while leaving the front unsupported In the early years of the 1870s the bustle usually extended from the waist to about the mid calf A c 1871 bustle of cotton with metal boning can be found here The bustle was fashionable until about 1875 when it went out of style as skirts were fitted closer to both the front and back of the body Beginning about 1883 the bustle enjoyed another round of popularity until finally going entirely out of fashion about 1890 Continue reading Day ensemble 1870 72 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 January 18 2011 Paris 1962 giveaway winner We loved reading the entries for our Paris 1962 giveaway With favorite designers ranging from Rose Bertin to Issey Miyake your answers exhibited an impressive depth of knowledge about fashion history The winner of the giveaway selected by a random number generator is Kelly Anne Smith Kelly Anne s comment regarding her favorite designer was succinct but expressive Jacques Fath a master We haven t yet featured Fath on our blog so if you re unfamiliar with his work take a look at this 1948 silk satin evening dress Thanks to all who entered the giveaway and to all the readers of our blog We hope to feature more giveaways in the future so stay tuned Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 January 12 2011 Mariano Fortuny Though Mariano Fortuny 1871 1949 is remembered primarily for his finely pleated silk gowns it would be inaccurate to categorize his work as fashion i e undergoing frequent stylistic changes Unlike a couturier who regularly introduces new silhouettes colors and textiles Fortuny produced essentially the same garment with slight variations from 1909 1949 During and before this period Fortuny was also an active painter and inventor who designed an innovative new system of indirect lighting for theatrical productions Because of Fortuny s disinterest in the cycle of fashion and his career as a painter he is often considered an an artist who made clothing Fortuny s trademark dress is the Delphos a simple column of finely pleated silk As suggested by its name which is both a location in Greece and the son of the Greek god Apollo the Delphos dress is based on ancient Greek dress Specifically the Delphos and its variations resemble the pleated garments portrayed in Greek and Roman art Though

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/01/index.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: December 2010
    dual purpose adornment and as a vehicle for displaying personal or familial wealth Though glass paste gemstones and pinchbeck could very nearly imitate the appearance of costly fine jewelry objects made using these techniques filled the same roles as did jewelry made from gold and diamonds In the 1920s semi precious and non precious jewelery challenged this notion suggesting that jewelry was simply another way to enhance personal appearance The most iconic example of this mindset are the oversized patently fake pearls worn and popularized by Gabrielle Chanel As the twentieth century progressed costume jewelry continued to gain in popularity becoming an acceptable popular alternative to precious jewelry One of the most celebrated costume jewelry designers of the twentieth century is Kenneth Jay Lane Lane s fashion training began at Vogue where he worked in the art department He quickly switched to shoe design working for Delman and Christian Dior Shoes In 1961 2 Lane was working on a collection of jeweled shoes for Arnold Scassi when he suggested making jeweled buttons to match the shoes and even matching earrings and bangle bracelets 1 This first hand made collection consisted of plastic bracelets and drop earrings covered with rhinestones These first designs ultimately weren t mass manufactured but they began Lane s forays into jewelry design In 1963 Lane quit designing shoes and turned full time to jewelry Brooch Kenneth Jay Lane Rhinestone metal 1968 Gift of Anonymous Donor 2009 40 3 Continue reading Kenneth Jay Lane starburst brooch c 1968 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 3 TrackBack 0 December 14 2010 Ted Lapidus fur c 1983 Bill Cunningham s recent On The Street video Fabulous Mr Fox pointed out something I ve noticed over the past few months a renewed interest in animal prints and fur both real and fake In November 2010 the New York Times featured an article on fur coats made from nutria a voracious rodent Vogue s December 2010 editorial titled On The Prowl highlights a trend for wildcat print heels roam ing the urban jungle 1 And don t forget the Fall 2010 Chanel collection which featured shaggy fake fur showcased against a frozen background including chunks of an iceberg reportedly transported from Scandinavia Some have suggested that the renewed popularity of fur and animal prints can be directly tied to the prevalence of fast fashion When fashion forward styles and designer capsule collections can be bought inexpensively at mass market retailers those with the interest and financial resources purchase status items fur specific handbags unavailable at lower price points Thus fur is driven into a niche market reinforcing its status as a luxury item Ironically some mass market retailers including H M and Forever 21 have stopped using fur and or exotic leathers in their collections Though made for ethical reasons this decision further reinforces the idea of fur as a rare and desirable commodity Knee length fur coat Ted Lapidus Wolf coyote leather c 1983 Gift of Jo Holzman 2006 871

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2010/12/index.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: November 2010
    I must say I was surprised but honored to be selected as a winner in the Re Designing History competition On top of winning I have an opportunity to share a little about my art As might be apparent in my illustration I am inspired by anime and Japanese comics My favorite fashion trend originates in Japan as well You may have heard of a style called Lolita It is a fashion that draws primarily from Victorian children s clothing Lolita girls are particularly obsessed with Alice in Wonderland I too am inspired by Alice s innocence and how it contrasts with the somewhat dark and mysterious wonderland she enters Elizabeth Teemley s 1st place illustration Continue reading Re Designing History Illustration Competition winner inspired by Lolita style Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 1 TrackBack 0 November 19 2010 Cotton wrapper 1863 65 A careful reading of Victorian fashion periodicals and etiquette manuals reveals that each moment and every activity required a specific outfit Though many woman surely overlapped their morning and afternoon dresses due to economic circumstances or other factors the ideal wardrobe contained a dizzying array of dress types Throughout the Victorian era displaying an understanding of appropriate dress including accessories for any given occasion was a way of demonstrating good taste thus ensuring social standing The Ladies Book of Etiquette 1872 describes appropriate dress for the following activities or events receiving visitors visiting others travel walking going to market shopping visiting new brides mourning and going out in stormy weather Each category of dress is distinguished by type of fabric presence or absence of trim and physical suitability for the named activity i e an evening gown would prohibit walking Not comprehending and adhering to these sartorial rules was the epitome of bad taste Wrapper Cotton 1863 65 Museum purchase 2003 5 54 Continue reading Cotton wrapper 1863 65 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 5 TrackBack 0 November 16 2010 Day dress 1920 22 From about 1919 1928 the female waistline was largely invisible During this period most women s dress lacked indentation at the natural waistline creating a columnar silhouette best represented by the chemise or flapper dress Though some women adopted this style which has become an icon of the decade others wore slightly varied versions of the silhouette Throughout the decade a variety of devices were used to soften this severe silhouette including pleated inserts draped waist sashes and bloused bodices When used in small doses these elements added visual interest to an otherwise starkly simple silhouette Decoration like the appliqued flower and vine design on this dress provided another layer of complexity Day dress 1920 22 Gift of Anonymous Donor 2005 796 3 Continue reading Day dress 1920 22 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 November 10 2010 Esmarch bandage Esmarch Bandage Johnson Johnson c 1905 Museum Purchase 2009 5 76 And what is an Esmarch bandage you ask We wondered the same thing when this object came

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2010/11/index.html (2016-02-12)
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