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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Alexander McQueen
    the gown is ready to take flight into the night Mules Alexander McQueen c 2004 Museum Purchase 2005 5 112AB For Alexander McQueen 1969 2010 butterflies were not emblems of sweetness and light but reminders of the taxidermist and the entomologist s specimen case His fascination with the natural world encompassed its danger death and decay While these mules may appear playful at first glance the metal tipped spike heel threatens to sting like a bee This butterfly may be the legendary blue morpho an iridescent blue green butterfly native to Central and South America Like many creatures it is losing its native habitat to deforestation a reference consistent with McQueen s dark aesthetic Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 January 03 2012 One last look at 2011 Alexander McQueen peacock dress Before we get too far into 2012 we wanted to mention one final blog post from 2011 When we compiled our Top Five Posts of 2011 our post on Alexander McQueen s peacock dress was an extremely close runner up This post trailed very slightly one page view behind our fifth most popular post on Lucile McQueen s creation was a favorite during our recent FABULOUS exhibition and we wanted to give you one more chance to revisit it before we begin posting new content for 2012 All of us at the FIDM Museum thank you for your continued support of our many endeavors We wish you the very best in 2012 Our next project is the twentieth anniversary Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition opening February 14 2012 More on this exhibition soon Alexander McQueen s famed peacock evening dress currently on display in FABULOUS is a crowd favorite Visitors routinely beeline straight for the frothy dress which resides on a rotating platform in the third and final gallery of the exhibition We commissioned it from the Alexander McQueen atelier in 2010 and it took about 7 months to create It is one of only three extant versions of the dress And do you see those shoes These replica shoes based on those worn with the peacock dress during its runway presentation were created by our mountmaker extraordinaire Evening dress Fall Winter 2008 9 Commissioned 2010 Alexander McQueen Museum Commission Funds provided by Karen Coombs Jordan 2010 5 73 Continue reading One last look at 2011 Alexander McQueen peacock dress Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 December 01 2011 Alexander McQueen Peacock Dress Alexander McQueen s famed peacock evening dress currently on display in FABULOUS is a crowd favorite Visitors routinely beeline straight for the frothy dress which resides on a rotating platform in the third and final gallery of the exhibition We commissioned it from the Alexander McQueen atelier in 2010 and it took about 7 months to create It is one of only three extant versions of the dress And do you see those shoes These replica shoes based on those worn with the peacock dress during its runway presentation

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/alexander-mcqueen/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Alfred Shaheen
    and scale When he launched his own label Isaacs reversed the letters of his last name to form the Italianate moniker Scaasi Like James Scaasi saw himself as an American couturier offering a custom made alternative to Parisian couture and Seventh Avenue ready to wear Detail Bucking couture tradition Scaasi often opened his runway shows with evening wear to make a dramatic impact 2 This early cocktail dress of brown cotton velvet is embellished with the kind of elaborate three dimensional ribbonwork usually seen only in haute couture The knotted orange cotton velvet ribbons are tacked down with orange beads and rectangular gold sequins the ends are knotted and intertwined for a fringed effect Between the fluttering ribbons and the reflective sequins the dress would have been eye catching even after dark Detail 1 Quoted in Taryn Benbow Pfalzgraf ed Contemporary Fashion 2nd Edition New York St James Press 2002 598 2 Pamela A Parmal Scaasi American Couturier Boston MFA Publications 2010 62 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 June 09 2015 Made in Hawaii Alfred Shaheen 1922 2008 singlehandedly elevated Hawaiian shirts from tacky souvenirs to Tiki chic and in the process founded the modern Hawaiian fashion industry Born in New Jersey and raised in Southern California Shaheen moved to Oahu with his parents in 1938 He returned to California the next year to attended Whittier College Upon graduating in 1943 he enlisted in the U S Army Air Corps and served as a fighter pilot in World War II He returned to Oahu after the war and joined his family s custom dressmaking business In 1948 he launched his own ready to wear enterprise making men s Aloha shirts and island inspired womenswear including sundresses sarongs and swimsuits Alfred Shaheen c 1970 Gift of Jane Calhoun 2007

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/alfred-shaheen/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Animal motifs
    is the suggestion of chasing butterflies a spring pastime traditionally depicted as part of childhood play The link between butterflies and childhood was carried into the twentieth century this 1920s hand painted Dainty Blossom ensemble also features fanciful butterflies Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 May 06 2014 Linen jacket c 1912 Linen jacket c 1912 Gift of Wendy Cohen 2012 1186 2 Decorated with butterflies this charming jacket was made sometime around 1912 During the 1910s mainstream fashion moved away from the rigid S bend silhouette of the Edwardian Era 1901 1910 Defined waistlines and full busts moved out of fashion replaced by a leaner silhouette that de emphasized bust and hip By 1912 women s dress had softened narrowed and shortened This new mood was reinforced by a increase in the popularity of softer textiles including lightweight cottons lawn batiste and a variety of lightweight silks crepe chiffon satin Linen used to create the jacket pictured here was also popular Button detail 2012 1186 2 At the time this jacket was made nearly all types of garments could be purchased ready made Though it has no label this simple jacket was probably a creation of the emerging ready to wear industry With a loose fit and relatively few pattern pieces it would have been easy to create in a factory setting The butterflies perched on cuff and collar are machine embroidered though the starbursts decorating the fabric buttons may have been stitched by hand Back view 2012 1186 2 This jacket was probably worn at home as a dressing or morning jacket Instead of donning full day dress immediately after waking many women of leisure wore at home ensembles for the first few hours of the day Seen only by family and household servants morning dishabille ranged from low key a plain muslin gown to elaborate a chiffon jacket worn over a loose silk sheath In 1913 Vogue offered a suitably romantic option a 3 piece ensemble of matching cap coat and skirt made of primrose yellow chiffon with a lining of flesh colored chiffon 1 1 Morning Coquetries Vogue May 1 1913 126 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 February 08 2014 Chanel evening ensemble 1985 Designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel this dramatic evening ensemble includes a floor length silk crepe evening gown and feathered cape Covered with iridescent coque rooster feathers the cape is a true show stopper Because of the inherent fragility of feathers a garment such as this cape can only be worn a few times before the feathers begin to deteriorate Fragile and easily abraded or broken coque feathers are a truly opulent decorative embellishment Evening Ensemble Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel 1985 Silk chiffon crepe coque feathers Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 2009 116 1AB Continue reading Chanel evening ensemble 1985 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 December 31 2013 Top five posts of 2013 Skirt lifter c 1876 Our most popular blog

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/animal-motifs/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Annette Green Fragrance Archive
    adhering to popular aesthetics Costume jewelry in particular was intended to provide the look of expense without the cost of pricey materials Much like ready to wear following trends set by haute couture costume jewelry is the cheaper form of fine jewelry but often worn together since the 1920s Christie Romero 1946 2009 was a gemologist collector historian curator consultant and appraiser She wrote the best selling Warman s Jewelry a reference guide to 18th 19th and 20th century jewelry and served as an expert appraiser on the Antiques Roadshow television program A portion of her collection is now part of the Permanent Collection of the FIDM Museum which celebrates her legacy with the exhibition Artfully Adorned There are no fragrance related objects on display at this time Artfully Adorned is open to the public Monday Saturday 10am 5pm Like all exhibitions at the FIDM Museum admission to Artfully Adorned is FREE Please note visitors must have a current photo ID to access the Annette Green Fragrance Archive which is located on the 2nd floor of the FIDM Los Angeles campus Artfully Adorned Jewelry from the Christie Romero Collection Presented in the Annette Green Fragrance Archive 919 S Grand Ave 2nd Floor Los Angeles CA 90015 213 623 5821 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 December 13 2013 Friday Wrap Reading Watching An occasional round up of articles events exhibitions and other information of interest This week we share a fascinating read a festive perfume bottle and footage of historic garments in action Do you document your museum visits by taking lots of pictures Recent research suggests that snapping photos of your favorite exhibits might decrease your ability to remember the objects on display After visiting a museum and taking numerous photos research subjects remembered fewer details about an object if they d taken its picture By taking photos you re effectively outsourcing your memory to the camera Something to think about the next time you re tempted to take a picture Ting a Ling Perfume Bottle Lucien Lelong c 1949 Gift of Monique Fink F2006 877 45AB Decorated with functioning bells the Ting a Ling perfume bottle is one of the most charming and festive bottles in our extensive collection of Parfums Lucien Lelong packaging and ephemera Though designed to hold two fragrances this bottle probably a prototype is empty With its tiny bells and green gold packaging Ting a Ling was intended for holiday gift giving A 1949 advertisement suggested Wise men will bring gifts by Lucien Lelong including Ting a Ling perfume heralded by tiny sleigh bells 1 If you ve followed our blog over the last several years you ll know that dress historian collector and dealer Doris Langley Moore has always fascinated Associate Curator Christina Johnson Last year Christina presented research on Doris Langley Moore at the Costume Colloquium conference in Florence Italy In 1957 Moore created Men Women and Clothes a multi part series on this history of fashion for the

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/annette-green-fragrance-archive/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Applique
    is among the generation of American designers credited with creating and popularizing the American Look during and immediately after World War II Along with designers such as Carolyn Schnurer Louella Ballerino and Claire McCardell Leser designed casual ready to wear clothing inspired by non Western garments and textiles Based in New York Leser s extensive world travels informed her designs and she often spoke on the subject of interpreting non Western artistic traditions into contemporary fashions Though she is less well known today when Leser was actively designing she was noted for her casual clothes defined with an air of elegance 1 and for the overall wearability of her creations Skirt Tina Leser Original c 1955 Gift of Mrs Carita Kadison 2003 792 5 The Tina Leser skirt seen in these photos is labeled a Tina Leser Original During the 1950s if a designer s name was paired with original on the garment label it designated a ready to wear garment produced in extremely limited quantities and available only at select stores Bridging the gap between custom made haute couture and widely available ready to wear the buyer of an original garment was unlikely to encounter another women wearing the same model This labeling technique was used by numerous American designers including Adrian A brief 1955 New York Times article on this exact skirt stated that the tape lace embellishment at the hips was hand made by nuns in a Flanders convent Leser designed a pattern for the lace which then took 10 days for 3 nuns to complete The article comments on the exclusivity of the skirt noting that it had limited availability and would be a suitable gift to be handed down from mother to daughter 2 The retail price was 195 a definite bargain for the amount of handwork involved Detail of 2003 792 5 1 Designer s Pattern Los Angeles Times 8 Oct 1950 C9 2 From a Belgian Convent New York Times 17 Dec 1955 20 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 2 TrackBack 0 May 25 2012 The start of summer The unofficial start of summer is just a few days away In the United States the Memorial Day holiday always the last Monday in May marks the beginning of the summer season Depending on where you live the climate may or may not cooperate No matter what the weather you re probably plotting a weekend getaway and plans for summer fun This blog post first published in 2009 examines a crucial component of the summer wardrobe swimwear Dating from the late 19th century this bathing suit is unlike any swimwear you d see on the beach today Made from a wool textile it looks more like a full length coat Read on to find out why 19th century women wore such modest swimwear Woman s bathing ensemble c 1875 Museum Purchase 2006 25 3AB Continue reading The start of summer Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 April 10 2012 Chains

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/applique/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Apron
    baking and stirring today s post reflects on the ultimate domestic fashion accessory the apron First published in 2009 this post describes how and why the division between plain and fancy aprons arose in the late 19th century Fancy apron 1895 1905 Gift of Ms Judy Thomsen S2004 823 2 In practical terms aprons are merely protective overgarments worn to prevent food or dirt from staining clothing Despite these functional

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/apron/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Arnold Scaasi
    starlets like Natalie Wood Mary Tyler Moore and Barbra Streisand and for his colorful playful 1980s evening gowns the embodiment of Reagan era feminine excess As he once boasted Scaasi creations are the champagne and caviar of the fashion world 1 Evening Dress Arnold Scaasi c 1965 Gift of Mrs Justin Dart 81 218 1AB Born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal Scaasi trained at the prestigious Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and honed his haute couture technique during an apprenticeship with the house of Paquin In the early 1950s he moved to New York to work with the legendary Charles James whose influence could be seen in Scaasi s command of structure and scale When he launched his own label Isaacs reversed the letters of his last name to form the Italianate moniker Scaasi Like James Scaasi saw himself as an American couturier offering a custom made alternative to Parisian couture and Seventh Avenue ready to wear Detail Bucking couture tradition Scaasi often opened his runway shows with evening wear to make a dramatic impact 2 This early cocktail dress of brown cotton velvet is embellished with the kind of elaborate three dimensional ribbonwork usually seen only

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/arnold-scaasi/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Art Deco
    remember shopping at Eaton s Tell us about your experience 1 Donica Belisle Consuming Producers Retail Workers and Commodity Culture at Eaton s in Mid Twentieth Century Toronto Queen s University Master of Arts Thesis Kingston Ontario September 2001 13 2 Bruce Allen Kopytek Eaton s The Trans Canada Store Charleston The History Press 2014 242 Additional Resources Whiteson Leon The Graceful Lines of Streamline Moderne The Los Angeles Times Los Angeles CA Feb 11 1990 Canada s Historic Places http www historicplaces ca Canadian Museum of History http www historymuseum ca Library and Archives Canada http www collectionscanada gc ca Art and History of Rockefeller Center http www rockefellercenter com art and history Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 April 28 2015 Skyscraper Style In the 1920s America s booming economy sent real estate prices and buildings soaring sky high in crowded cities like New York and Chicago where land was scarce and there was nowhere to go but up Towering new edifices of glass and steel rose dozens of stories above city streets earning the name skyscrapers In New York the 1916 Zoning Resolution was introduced to prevent the looming structures from blocking out the sunlight This resulted in the distinctive setback style of 1920s and 30s the Art Deco period Coat United States c 1930 Museum Purchase 2007 5 7 The Chrysler Building completed in 1930 remains an icon of Art Deco architecture At 1 046 feet the instantly recognizable landmark was the tallest structure in the world at least until it was surpassed by the Empire State Building a year later The Chrysler Building dominates the stylized Art Deco skyline printed on this rayon crêpe coat A zeppelin hovers at center back and futurist style arcs and speed lines surround the urban monument creating the sense of urgency and movement experienced in a busting metropolis Villon Tryst Parfum bottle c 1930 Gift of Annette Green Museum at the Fragrance Foundation F2005 860 432 Skyscrapers became popular leitmotifs in film photography and literature The new architectural style influenced interior design as well as fashion inspiring tiered skyscraper bookcases lamps and vases This Tryst perfume bottle in the FIDM Museum s Annette Green Fragrance Archive has streamlined setbacks Lord Taylor s Mimosa scent of 1927 also came in a slim skyscraper inspired bottle When the stock market crashed in 1929 rumors of stockbrokers jumping out of skyscrapers swept Wall Street During the Depression the real estate market collapsed and construction plans for many skyscrapers were cancelled or scaled back It was not until after World War II that things began looking up again Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 April 11 2014 Embroidered cotton lawn dress c 1923 Day dress c 1923 Cotton lawn with machine embroidery Gift of Mary Davenport 2000 219 2 Made from cool lightweight cotton lawn this sleeveless 1920s dress is the perfect spring frock Like many fashionable 1920s dresses it is shaped only by minimal bust darts Often described

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/art-deco/ (2016-02-12)
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