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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Handkerchief
    1926 These charmingly presented silk handkerchiefs prove that the whole is usually greater than the sum of its parts Their colorful festive packaging elevates them to something memorable Carefully folded and arranged to form full skirts the hand painted handkerchiefs add dimensionality to a beguiling printed background Because they re so prettily packaged they probably retailed as a gift item As declared in a 1924 Vogue advertisement Let that last

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/handkerchief/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Handmade
    dates from about 1905 10 and was probably created from a pattern featured in a fashion periodical Patterns for small crocheted purses often decorated with beads were common in the first decade of the 20th century Due to the relative speed with which they could be produced purses were often suggested as the ideal hand crafted gift Purse 1905 1910 Gift of Tina Brown S2008 925 6 Continue reading Crochet Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 6 TrackBack 0 September 02 2010 Sewing patterns from the FIDM Museum Within the FIDM Museum collection are a number of smaller mini collections Some like the Rudi Gernreich Archive consist of large groupings of objects that document the work of a specific designer Others like our photograph collection are less focused groupings of objects collected to help us interpret fashion history One of my favorite mini collections is our collection of paper sewing patterns In addition to their entertaining envelope illustrations sewing patterns are a valuable source of fashion information because they help us understand how high fashion or runway garments are interpreted for the mass market This is particularly true for patterns associated with known designers They can also point to the social context of specific garments or styles Because many patterns are copyrighted they can be very useful in dating extant garments Sewing patterns also allow us the opportunity to engage with fashion on a very personal level With a bit of practice and patience any sewer can create a custom designed garment demonstrating either a highly individual sense of style or one perfectly attuned to the latest runway fashions Misses and Women s Slack Suit and Coverall pattern Simplicity 1942 45 2003 46 10 Gift of Andrea Tice In Memory of Carmelita Johnson Continue reading Sewing patterns from the FIDM Museum Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 13 TrackBack 0 January 29 2010 Egyptomania In late 1922 the British archaeologist Howard Carter unearthed and opened the sealed tomb of King Tutankhamun in Luxor Egypt Though Egyptian art and ornament had served as a source of artistic inspiration for many centuries the discovery of King Tutankhamun s tomb created an immediate renewal of interest in Egypt throughout Europe and North America Reporters present at the opening of the tomb sent frequent articles and images to their home newspapers resulting in widespread knowledge of the archaeological find By early 1923 Egypt or fanciful perceptions of Egypt had inspired a wave of Egyptian influenced garments accessories and decorative embellishments Textile c 1923 Gift of Robert Fortunoff 99 274 114 Continue reading Egyptomania Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 3 TrackBack 0 October 12 2009 Hairpin lace When this hairpin lace dress was donated to the FIDM Museum in 2007 we had to give ourselves a crash course because we weren t familiar with this form of handwork Worked on a small hand held fork or loom with a crochet hook hairpin lace is a relatively quick form of handwork The adjustable fork produces

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/handmade/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Hats
    s imagination and the customer s budget Bonnet Europe c 1863 straw and horsehair At a time when women of fashion wore hats every day along with gloves and corsets the concept of the Easter bonnet was a vestige of the centuries old tradition of wearing new clothes on Easter New clothes symbolized renewal on a more practical level they welcomed warmer weather and advertised one s wealth and fashionability The annual Easter parade on New York s Fifth Avenue began in the 1870s and continued into the mid 20th century other American cities developed their own versions of this lavish tradition Bonnet Europe c 1860 straw with black and pink trim In the late 19th and early 20th centuries clothing was much more expensive than it is today Buying a new hat was an easy and relatively inexpensive way to update an outfit especially during the Depression World War II thrust many women into new roles as factory workers farmhands nurses and servicewomen Rosie the Riveter style kerchiefs and mannish military hats replaced elaborate millinery While hats hung on through the war and made a resurgence in the 1950s they were considered hopelessly old fashioned by the mid 1960s Despite the best efforts of the British royal family elaborate hats are primarily seen in museums today Hat Europe c 1877 straw with burnt orange trim FIDM Museum s Orange County Gallery is located at 17590 Gillette Avenue in Irvine It is open by appointment only please contact Jim Nemmert at 949 851 6200 ext 1730 to schedule a visit or stop by on April 25th when the gallery will be open from 11 1 as part of FIDM s annual Open House Please note that both the Los Angeles and Orange County campuses will be closed April 3 6 for the holiday weekend Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 November 25 2014 From the Archives Blanche and Simone velvet hat The FIDM Museum blog will be on hiatus through early January 2015 In the meantime enjoy weekly posts from the archives To keep up with our current projects find us on Facebook and Twitter which will be updated regularly during the blog hiatus We first posted this wine red velvet headwrap style hat by Blanche and Simone in February 2012 The 1931 Paris Exposition Coloniale Internationale was designed to showcase the artistic and cultural achievements of France s colonial possessions while also demonstrating the mutual benefits of the colonial relationship At the time of the Exposition France s expansive colonial empire was second in size only to Britain s by the 1930s France and its colonies occupied 9 3 percent of the inhabited landmasses of the world 1 With colonies in Africa south Asia Oceania and the Caribbean French political rule and cultural influence affected nearly every corner of the globe Opening in May 1931 the Colonial Exposition brought the arts architecture and people of France s colonies to Paris for a six month stay A correspondent for American Vogue visited the Exposition and described it as being akin to a trip around the world you are suddenly transplanted to far colonial lands to jungles of Africa to palaces of Angkor into whole villages of Congo huts to Chinese temples 2 The Exposition was widely covered in the international press and very popular over 33 million visitors from France and beyond attended the Exposition Headwrap style hat 1930 33 Blanche and Simone Silk velvet FIDM Museum Purchase 2009 5 21 In 1931 the New York Time s declared The French Colonial exposition is giving a new impetus to Paris fashion 3 Though Paul Poiret had introduced orientalist creations as early as 1909 10 the popularity of the Colonial Exposition promoted a continued interest in appropriating and or referencing non western textiles colors and silhouettes In January 1931 several months before the Exposition opened its gates excitement about the upcoming event inspired new textile designs and jewelry with Cambodian Moorish or Madagascar motifs 4 In spring 1931 Paris milliner Agnès designed Biskra a small red hat decorated with white lace and named for the eponymous Algerian city Once the Exposition opened the fashion press continued to proclaim the Exposition s influence on the mood of French fashion Designed by the Paris milliners Blanche and Simone the red velvet headwrap style hat pictured here was probably inspired by the Colonial Exposition Specifically it may have been a reference to the headwraps worn by women in the French colonies of Martinique and Guadeloupe Originating with African slaves brought to the new world headwraps were common throughout all the Caribbean Islands and the American south Though headwraps were typically worn by enslaved women rarely men and domestic servants in the French colonies of Martinique and Guadeloupe headwraps were also adopted by upper class mixed race or caucasian women If they weren t already familiar with the style Blanche and Simone probably encountered women from the Caribbean wearing headwraps during a visit to the Colonial Exposition Back view 2009 5 21 A headwrap is usually fashioned from a length of fabric that is wrapped around the head according to individual preference In the case of this silk velvet hat the gathers and folds that dictate the silhouette are carefully stitched in place The half bow at center front mimics the end points created when a headwrap is tied from a length of fabric Like most hats of the early 1930s the sharp angles of Blanche and Simone s hat frame and expose the face This was a marked departure from the 1920s cloche which was typically pulled low over the forehead Because it is made of a richly colored silk velvet this hat was probably intended for fall or winter wear 2009 5 21 Though the Exposition Coloniale Internationale was well attended it also had its critics A coalition of left wing intellectuals organized the Exposition anti impérialiste or Anti imperialist Exposition This counter exposition made the point that much of

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/hats/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Haute couture
    key theme of Dior s Spring Summer 1968 collection The gown s neckline dips to a V shape in the back mirroring the cut of the skirt The flounces at the collar sleeves and hemline are edged with white satin This gown was shown paired with low heeled square toed white slingbacks in the French fashion magazine L Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris in March 1968 Marc Bohan for Christian Dior Spring Summer 1973 Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 79 116 2AB This day dress of snowy silk gazar is from Dior s Spring Summer 1973 collection which was built around shirtdresses The A line skirt with a nipped in waist was the silhouette of the season Women s Wear Daily praised the collection s fresh simplicity reporting The buyers considered the collection Bohan at his best but there were a few worries about fitting wide waisted customers January 26 1974 January 23 1973 79 116 2AB Tall slim Betsy Bloomingdale had no such worries Like many of her dresses this has clean simple lines enlivened by one key detail in this case a matching belt cinched around the wide inset waistband for an obi like effect 79 116 2AB The 02027 stamped on the label is the dresses couture number indicating that it is a one of a kind creation Although Dior had branches in London and New York the label specifies that this original was made in Paris What better place for a summer vacation Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 October 13 2014 Fashion Birthday Charles Frederick Worth Charles Frederick Worth was born 189 years ago today on October 13 1825 Considered the pre eminent fashion tastemaker of the latter nineteenth century Worth labeled his garments ensuring that his creations were perpetually associated with his name persona and aesthetic He considered himself an artist often wearing a smock when meeting with clients Worth s aesthetic was bold and often included the use of large scale imagery such as the life like roses pictured here Textile Panel Lyon France 1878 Silk brocade Gift of Sarah Beetem 2008 940 5 Charles Frederick Worth 1825 1895 began his ascent to the height of fashion as a draper selling luxury fabrics in specialty emporiums He fostered relations with textile middlemen whose valuable connections to the weaving center of Lyon helped him establish a maison de haute couture in 1857 The second half of the nineteenth century was a busy time for French silk production Established by royal edict in the fifteenth century the industry could boast more than 120 000 looms in operation by the 1870s 1 Worth not only bought pre woven damasks and velvets supplied to him by firms such as A Gourd Cie and C V Bonnet Cie but also specially commissioned designs with motifs he admired including feathers wheat and roses The bolder the patterns and the more striking the color combinations the better 2 Visitors to Worth s maison passed through multiple display rooms of textiles culminating in a selection of polychrome silks 3 This eye catching brocade of fully blooming roses in pinks and yellows on a deep burgundy ground exemplifies the sumptuous creations that made Worth world famous Once part of an evening or reception gown this skirt panel is all that remains of the commission made for a Mrs Scribner on her Paris honeymoon in 1878 1 Anquetil Jacques Silk Paris Flammarion 1996 19 2 Coleman Elizabeth Ann The Opulent Era Fashions of Worth Doucet and Pingat New York Thames Hudson and the Brooklyn Museum of Art 1989 74 75 3 Ibid 16 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 August 01 2014 Fashion Birthday Yves Saint Laurent Yves Saint Laurent was born on this day in 1936 Active in the Paris haute couture from 1953 until his retirement in 2002 Saint Laurent is considered one of the most influential designers of the latter 20 th century Saint Laurent passed away in 2008 but with the recent release of both official and unofficial biopics documenting his life his legacy is clearly experiencing consideration In honor of the designer s birthday today s blog post explores a Saint Laurent haute couture evening dress from 1979 80 Evening dress Yves Saint Laurent Autumn Winter 1979 80 Silk velvet silk satin Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 2006 116 54 This evening dress was model 85 from Yves Saint Laurent s Homage to Diaghilev and Picasso collection inspired by the collaboration of ballet impresario Sergei Diaghilev and painter Pablo Picasso Garments were comprised of contrasting shapes and color blocks like this gown s square black velvet shoulders juxtaposed with the rounded yellow satin skirt a style reminiscent of Picasso s set and costume designs for the Ballets Russes Notations on the fashion show program reveal that this dress cost 13 050 francs approximately 3 260 in 1979 Couture pricing is arbitrary and depends on the number of models a client commissions each season as well as her media value Famous clients known for wearing a certain designer exclusively are valuable advertising for the house and can receive substantial discounts or outright gifts of favorite designs 2006 116 54 Shoulder detail This collection was well received by both critics and customers The New York Times reported that attendees suffered over which styles they should buy They were traumatized by the fact they liked so many 1 Vogue gave the collection high praise calling it a collection with fireworks and fashion on the highest level of craftsmanship and design 2 At the show s conclusion audience members gave Saint Laurent a standing ovation Donor Betsy Bloomingdale favored the rich yellow color of this skirt She owned several haute couture garments in similar colors including a golden yellow halter gown in silk charmeuse also by Yves Saint Laurent The strong color combination seen in this evening dress was a defining characteristic of Saint Laurent s Picasso Diaghilev collection which featured

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/couture/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection
    30 pieces of her wardrobe in total and several more associated with her children and her daughter in law Alexandra who became queen consort upon Victoria s death in 1901 The FIDM Museum has a once in a lifetime opportunity to acquire this rare and beautiful piece and many more like it before the Larson Collection is dispersed forever or sold into private hands inaccessible to students researchers and the general public But we need your help to save the Larson Collection We have raised more than twenty percent of the necessary funds but we still have a long way to go and time is running out Please make a contribution online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign to donate 4 or more by texting Museum to 243725 Donations are tax deductible if your company or organization has a matching gift program your support will go even further You can also help by spreading the word on social media using the 4for400 hashtag The FIDM Museum as until the end of 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help save 400 years of fashion history Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 October 30 2015 Fundraising Friday An American in Paris The FIDM Museum is in the final months of a major fundraising campaign to purchase the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection a private collection of 1 400 historic garments and accessories from four centuries Each Friday this blog will present an exquisite piece from the Larson Collection Evening Dress Madame Havet Paris c 1927 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection The couture house of Madame Havet was located directly across the street from the Paris Opera House While representing the forefront of Parisian style Havet s designs were popular with visiting Americans and they were also sold in the U S This one supposedly belonged to the daughter of the American railroad baron Jay Gould who married a French aristocrat the Duc de Talleyrand The pale pink chiffon evening gown in the new short sheer style of the 1920s has a bird motif rendered in glass rhinestones which also decorate the hem and shoulder straps Detail The FIDM Museum has a once in a lifetime opportunity to acquire this rare and beautiful ensemble and many more like it before the collection is dispersed forever or sold into private hands inaccessible to students researchers and the general public But we need your help to save the Larson Collection We have raised more than twenty percent of the necessary funds but we still have a long way to go and time is running out Please make a contribution online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign to donate 4 or more by texting Museum to 243725 Donations are tax deductible if your company or organization has a matching gift program your support will go even further You can also help by spreading the word on social media using the 4for400 hashtag The FIDM Museum as until the end of 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help save 400 years of fashion history Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 October 23 2015 Fundraising Friday Winter Bride The FIDM Museum is in the final months of a major fundraising campaign to purchase the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection a private collection of 1 400 historic garments and accessories from four centuries Each Friday this blog will present an exquisite piece from the Larson Collection And don t forget to follow our Instagram account tomorrow as Mad Men costumer Janie Bryant takes over to raise awareness about our fundraising campaign Wedding Ensemble Great Britain c 1865 66 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection Although this Civil War era wedding ensemble consisting of a silk satin bodice overskirt underskirt and belt appears to be trimmed with fur it is actually swansdown that accents the collar shoulders cuffs and fine linen gauze overskirt a romantic appurtenance for a winter bride Detail The lace cap is adorned with glass beads and pear shaped pearls and anchors a square floor length veil of tulle This is one of more than a dozen historic wedding gowns in the Larson Collection dating from the early 19th century to the 1960s the collection also includes several veils and other bridal accessories and a man s embroidered wedding coat from the 18th century Detail The FIDM Museum has a once in a lifetime opportunity to acquire this rare and beautiful ensemble and many more like it before the collection is dispersed forever or sold into private hands inaccessible to students researchers and the general public But we need your help to save the Larson Collection We have raised more than twenty percent of the necessary funds but we still have a long way to go and time is running out Please make a contribution online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign to donate 4 or more by texting Museum to 243725 Donations are tax deductible if your company or organization has a matching gift program your support will go even further You can also help by spreading the word on social media using the 4for400 hashtag The FIDM Museum as until the end of 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help save 400 years of fashion history Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 October 09 2015 Fundraising Friday Rêves de Fleurs Our garden is growing The current exhibition Fleurs Botanicals in Dress from the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection has inspired FIDM students to create fashion illustrations putting a modern twist on these historic floral fashions Their illustrations are currently on display alongside complementary pieces from the permanent collection Designers include Rudi Gernreich Michael Novarese James Galanos Emilio Pucci Christian Dior Gianfranco Ferré and Norman Norell Don t miss this temporary installation titled Rêves de Fleurs Flower Dreams As always admission

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/helen-larson-historic-fashion-collection/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Helen Rose
    a soda at a Sunset Boulevard soda fountain While sitting at the counter Turner was spotted by William Wilkerson publisher of movie magazine The Hollywood Reporter Wilkerson approached Turner then known as Julia Turner asking if she d like to be in pictures This chance meeting led to a small role in the 1937 film They Won t Forget As the murder victim at the center of the plot Turner wore a tight fitted sweater Though her on screen appearance was brief Turner was a hit Audience response cards and fan mail begged for more of the Sweater Girl aka Lana Turner Throughout the 1930s and 40s Turner starred in succession of films including a highly praised performance in The Postman Always Rings Twice 1946 Off screen Turner s personal life also had a cinematic arc Turner reportedly enjoyed Hollywood nightlife and was romantically linked with a succession of married and unmarried men Turner s life both off and on the screen was well covered in the press The rate at which Turner switched romantic partners was considered somewhat scandalous and MGM sometimes engaged in damage control regarding Turner s personal life For example when Turner slashed her wrist in

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/helen-rose/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Helmut Lang
    hems visible stitching and the distressed appearance of the textile evoke deconstruction Though elements of the dress can be traced back in time Lang combined them without much concern for the past As Lang stated in a 1994 interview I think the history and the past we have is just an energy we ve built up to do what we do now 2 2011 800 1 Textile detail Born in Austria Helmut Lang b 1956 studied fashion design in his home country opening his own studio in the late 1970s In 1986 he presented his first Paris runway show Lang s early work lacked the unadorned modernist aesthetic of the dress seen here In 1986 Vogue featured a dark green boiled wool Tyrolean jacket adorned with double rows of buttons or piping for obvious charm by the young Austrian Helmut Lang 3 By the mid 1990s however Lang s understated aesthetic had developed to the point where he was frequently grouped with other neo modernist designers including Martin Margiela Ann Demeulemeester and Jil Sander The influence of these minimalist designers indicated a new mood in fashion one that rejected the opulent decadent fashions of the 1980s 2011 800 1 Helmut Lang expanded his brand rapidly and by the year 2000 his name adorned menswear womenswear underwear shoes jeans accessories perfume even eyewear Prada purchased a majority share in the company in late 2000 and Lang continued to design for the label until retiring from fashion in 2005 Though the Helmut Lang label still exists it is no longer designed by its namesake Today Lang is an active visual artist with frequent exhibitions Explore this work here 1 Helmut Lang Fresh Glitter Amy M Spindler New York Times July 17 1994 33 2 Ibid 3 Vogue s View Tyroleans Vogue Oct

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/helmut-lang/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Hermѐs
    world renowned purveyor of luxury goods Building on the reputation of their highly regarded leather goods Hermѐs diversified its product line in the early twentieth century Though still producing high quality leather goods Hermѐs expanded into other accessories handbags wallets etc and garments like this late 1920s beach ensemble Hermѐs is also credited with being the first to introduce zippers into high fashion handbags and luggage In the early 1920s Hermѐs designed a leather jacket which fastened with a zipper According to the company the fashion forward Prince of Wales sanctioned the zippered jacket with a purchase leading to unexpectedly high volume sales 1 This anecdote suggests the spirit of innovation and experimentation that has helped Hermѐs remain relevant for the last 174 years Even today the most iconic Hermѐs products the Kelly and Birkin bags are made of leather A structured square handbag ornamented with a tiny lock the Kelly earned its name when Princess Grace of Monaco aka screen star Grace Kelly was photographed with the bag in the 1950s The Birkin bag similar to the Kelly bag but larger was created in 1981 for French chanteuse Jane Birkin Hand crafted from rare and exotic leathers both bags

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/herm%D1%90s/ (2016-02-12)
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