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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Fashion Never Sleeps
    in the mid 1960s evening pyjamas represented a splurge of Eastern fantaisie optical illusion brash invention on an over your traces kick dusk to dawn 2 Exotic accessories like ostrich feathers chandelier earrings and turbans reflected the Eastern origins of the style elaborate bouffant hairstyles further refuted any notion that the wearer had just rolled out of bed Eye catching textiles might include colorful stripes psychadelic prints or oversized clown polka dots alternatively transparent chiffon revealed the shape of female legs sheathed within pants so wide you can t tell they re pants till you move 3 Detail In 1967 designer Leo Narducci advertised a striped party pajama poetically described as a visual expression of your most exciting self To make evenings all the more interesting at your home or somebody else s 4 Indeed pyjamas seemed to have encouraged women to indulge in adventurous sartorial role playing Coco Chanel who had pioneered the concept of beach pajamas on the French Riviera in the 1930s introduced sleek gold lamé and silk shantung dinner pajamas in the fall of 1965 Donald Brooks flamenco accented evening pyjamas of 1967 were constructed of flounces of black lace with one shoulder bared This ensemble of 1968 was made for Los Angeles socialite Betsy Bloomingdale by Marc Bohan of Christian Dior Though the yellow qiana nylon crepe is fairly subdued the tunic style top has gold embroidered epaulets and a belt trimmed with gold beads and ostrich feathers typically exotic touches Far from sleepwear this is an outfit made for staying up all night Betsy Bloomingdale and friends in Beverly Hills c 1968 Photo courtesy Betsy Bloomingdale 1 Vogue April 15 1969 2 Vogue March 15 1965 3 Vogue April 15 1969 4 Vogue April 1 1967 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2016/01/fashion-never-sleeps.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: From the Archives: Marc Bohan for Dior
    black turtlenecks was too much for the women who patronized the haute couture In contrast Bohan was an experienced designer who had worked in the haute couture since 1945 His first position was at Robert Piguet though he soon moved to Molyneux later becoming head designer at Maison Patou Bohan assumed the mantle of Dior just as the world of the haute couture was beginning to change dramatically In retrospect the years 1947 1957 are generally considered the pinnacle of the haute couture With Christian Dior at the forefront haute couture designers were the arbiters of chic producing exquisite fashions for the elite These creations were then modified by manufacturers and or retailers to appeal to the eye and wallet of everywoman But in the 1960s this system went head over heels as young women began disregarding the dictates of the haute couture in favor of diverse styles developed by and for the younger generation This emerging youthquake would permanently alter the way that haute couture was produced and perceived Saint Laurent s Beatnik collection which was influenced by the style of Parisian bohemians and not the elite patrons of the haute couture actually predicted the emerging relationship between haute couture and street fashion S2001 27 1 London was a hotbed of street fashion with numerous small boutiques offering youthful styles at relatively inexpensive prices Young designers with little experience not the years of training required in the haute couture opened boutiques Mary Quant s Bazaar which featured her schoolgirlish minidresses was one of the first Aware that something was happening in London Marc Bohan travelled to the newly fashionable city in 1966 Though impressed with the energy of Swinging London Bohan wasn t persuaded by the style of its residents On returning to France Bohan made a remark that indicated his belief in the primacy of the haute couture A couturier s job is dressing a woman making her elegant Our client cannot wear youthquake fashions and look beautiful 2 Though Bohan was aware that his clients were not ready to adopt the styles emerging from the youthquake the peek a boo bodice of this white sheath dress suggests that youthquake fashions were influencing Bohan During the 1950s and early 60s haute couture evening gowns weren t very revealing Strapless gowns were popular and lowered necklines were not unusual but evening dresses were typically more decorous than titillating In contrast the bodice of this Marc Bohan for Christian Dior evening dress is deliberately provocative Even though Bohan realized that neither he nor his clients were ready to abandon haute couture and adopt youthquake fashions this design indicates how the haute couture translated one aspect of youthquake style exposed skin During the 1960s skin was on display Miniskirts rose to great heights exposing almost the entire length of a woman s legs for the first time in decades Sheer blouses usually embellished with two strategically placed pockets were fashionable Rudi Gernreich was probably the most notorious designer of transparent fashions

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/10/marc-bohan-for-christian-dior-c-1966.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: From the Archives: Space Age Style
    fiction films like 2001 and Barbarella costumed by Rabanne and TV shows like Space 1999 costumed by Rudi Gernreich imagined a utopian future of tunics trousers flat booties helmets and mini dresses in lunar white or bold geometric patterns As Cardin explained The clothes I prefer are those I invent for a life that doesn t exist yet the world of tomorrow Sunglasses André Courrèges 1965 Museum Purchase Funds provided by Robert Nelson 2008 528 1A B These white plastic sunglasses with narrow horizontal slits suggest protective goggles or the bulging eyes of an otherworldly being According to the New York Times Courrèges direct unencumbered clothes were intended to be worn by young fast moving beauties his clients included French pop star Françoise Hardy socialite Lee Radziwill and model Marisa Berenson Rabanne dressed Hardy as well plus Audrey Hepburn Brigitte Bardot and Elizabeth Taylor Mini dress André Courrèges c 1965 Gift of Mrs Richard Gold 81 1965 008 1 With a Space X rocket launch scheduled for today a new Space Age is taking off bringing its attendant fashion inspiration Gucci s Fall 2014 ready to wear show paired mod shifts with patent leather boots while Rodarte presented a Star Wars themed collection Christian Dior s Spring 2015 couture show included retro astronaut jumpsuits But these nostalgic trips back to the future may prove to be less influential than fashions created with the same new technologies used by the current generation of space scientists Take Slow Factory boutique founder Celine Semaan Vernon who transforms high resolution NASA images of Earth into printed silk scarves or Nervous System the design studio behind the 3 D printed dress The results are truly out of this world Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2016/01/from-the-archives-space-age-style.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Deceptive Simplicity
    tricks of seaming that are as complicated as the deceptive simplicity they project account for shaping that is no less than superb This A line coat adheres to that description Detail It is formed entirely of French seams which highlight elongated armscyes outline the sides and edges and delineate distinctive pockets complex construction functioning as ornamentation A series of intricately knotted and varnished leather buttons in double breasted formation add bullet points to this geometric coat Detail The Courr è ges label was relaunched last month under the creative direction of Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant with its first runway show in 13 years and recently collaborated on a makeup collection with Est é e Lauder Always ahead of his time Courrèges seems right at home in the 21st century Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments are moderated and will not appear until approved by the author Post another comment The letters

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/10/courreges-coat.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: André Courrèges mini-dresses
    his unusual sunglasses with only a thin horizontal slit for sight the wearer became a space age vision Because his designs were so radically different than what was currently being presented by other French couturiers Courrèges sought a specific customer one who was active moves fast works and is usually young and modern enough to wear modern intelligent clothes 3 Courrèges designs proved extremely popular leading many retailers to create lower priced knock offs of his work The prevalence of knock offs led Courrèges to suspend public showings of his work between 1965 67 though he continued to design for private clients In 1967 Courrèges unveiled Couture Future limited runs of specific garments with lower prices sold from a Courrèges owned Paris boutique This retail innovation was intended to encourage customers to purchase Courrèges originals rather than knock offs Mini dress André Courrèges 1967 Gift of Laura Jarre 87 1967 008 08 As the mini dresses pictured here demonstrate Courrèges aesthetic also included an unexpected whimsy Scalloped trim and floral embellishment soften the strict silhouette of these space age dresses giving them a girlish youthful feel Widespread interest in youthful femininity was an important component of 1960s fashion and can be understood as a reaction to the hourglass silhouette of the 1950s We explored this topic in a previous blog post the little girl look and 1960s fashion 1 Peterson Patricia Balenciaga Gets Ovation for Fabulous Collection New York Times 2 Aug 1961 32 2 Courrèges Lord of Space Ladies Life 21 May 1965 47 3 Ibid 54 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Thank you for including my Courrèges dress in you blog Posted by Harriett Gold October 27 2011 at 10 20 AM Thank

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/09/-andr%C3%A9-courr%C3%A8ges-mini-dresses.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog
    1815 it became T Sharpless Son in 1841 when it relocated to 30 32 South Second Street the second Sharpless son Charles a talented amateur artist joined the business the following year At the time the store was described as a wholesale ware room clothes cassimeres merinoes silks and vestings But Charles transformed the business working tirelessly to advance the reputation of Philadelphia as compared with New York and other large cities in the way of Dry Goods trade and in the process becoming one of the most successful and distinguished merchants in his native city 1 By the time this dress was created Charles was running the family business in partnership with his own two sons Robert F Reynolds Advertisement for T Sharpless Sons South Second Street and Trotter s Alley Philadelphia 1846 Courtesy of The Library Company of Philadelphia The FIDM Museum has a once in a lifetime opportunity to acquire this rare and beautiful piece and many more like it before the Larson Collection is dispersed forever or sold into private hands inaccessible to students researchers and the general public But we still need your help to save the Larson Collection Please make a contribution online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign to donate 4 or more by texting Museum to 243725 Donations are tax deductible if your company or organization has a matching gift program your support will go even further You can also help by spreading the word on social media using the 4for400 hashtag The FIDM Museum has until the end 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help save 400 years of fashion history 1 Encyclopaedia of Contemporary Biography of Pennsylvania New York Atlantic Publishing Engraving 1890 II 272 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 December 17 2015 2016 Exhibitions Preview This is the last week to see our exhibitions Inspired Eye The Donald and Joan Damask Design Collection at the FIDM Museum and Fleurs Botanicals in Dress from the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection which close on Saturday evening We ll be de installing them to make room for two new shows opening February 9 on our Los Angeles campus A Graceful Gift Fans from the Mona Lee Nesseth Collection and our 24th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition Mother of pearl point de gaze lace gilded silver diamond fan Félix Alexandre artist an d Dumoret jeweler France c 1875 85 2013 975 2AB Fixed folded or fontage fans have cooled the air aided elegance of movement and spoken a silent language for centuries A Graceful Gift displays the fantastical ornamentation of these miniature artworks that hold our gaze and draw us in to look ever closer minutely painted leaves depict courtly lovers expertly carved mother of pearl scenes reveal convoluting cherubs and delicately entwined silk filaments form bouquets of lace As intended these remarkable late Victorian and Edwardian accessories are complimented by couture ensembles dressed for varied occasions that required a final flourish at the wrist FIDM Fashion Council member and world renowned gemologist Mona Lee Nesseth exercised her jeweler s eye when forming this remarkable collection of Belle Époque fans The FIDM Museum is enriched by her generous gift Costumes from last year s Academy Award winning film The Grand Budapest Hotel designed by Milena Canonero FIDM Museum Galleries popular annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition shines the spotlight on costumes that help bring memorable film characters to life This year s exhibition will feature more than 100 costumes representing 24 of 2015 s most notable films in a variety of genres Visitors will have the opportunity to see the exquisite designs and craftsmanship produced by Hollywood s top costume designers The 24th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design show will close April 30 A Graceful Gift will remain on view until July 2 Like all FIDM Museum shows they are free to the public Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 December 15 2015 An Interview With Illustrator David Croland David Croland has an active career in art and fashion His illustrations can be found in Vogue Bazaar Interview and The New York Times among other publications His drawings are also commissioned by department stores such as Barneys New York and Henri Bendel as well as numerous beauty companies As a photographer his work appears in Glamour and British Vogue Mr Croland has depicted some of the fashion industry s most famous muses and designs His dynamic c 1992 drawing of a woman s face was chosen as the iconic image for Inspired Eye The Donald and Joan Damask Design Collection at the FIDM Museum on view through December 19 Exhibition Curator Christina Johnson interviews him below Were you taught how to draw or is it something that happened organically What about photography and prints did you have formal training in these media How did you discover your own talent David Croland with his portrait of Donna Jordan done for Chris von Wangenheim in 1972 I drew since early childhood art was always my favorite class My parents always encouraged me to draw paint and do anything to do with art I went to Pratt Institute when I was 17 years old It was a great creative time to be in New York That was 1964 I studied interior design before switching to Parsons School of Design in 1966 After that in 1967 I moved to Paris for a year It was a great school for glamour David Croland holding commission for L Oreal 1971 Then came New York where I was a model After that London for all of 1969 where I was also a model That s where my illustration career began My first assignments were full page beauty illustrations for Harper s Bazaar and drawing the Paris collections After London I moved back to New York and the illustration career took off Lots of work for Harper s Bazaar Vogue

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/page/2/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Search
    all the latest news from the FIDM Museum Search About the FIDM Museum Learn more about FIDM Archives Categories Links Support the FIDM Museum Visit the FIDM Museum Shop Please

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/.services/blog/6a01156f47abbe970c01156f47abc2970c/search (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Meet Madame Olympe
    when she took over the business of A Mace who had been importing French millinery goods By 1858 Madame Olympe had expanded her business to include dresses lace and other necessary items for a lady of fashion According to a business directory Madame Olympe s shop was very popular and featured the most fashionable items in the city Madame Olympe s business was most likely closed during the Civil War when a blockade prevented nearly all dress and textile goods from reaching the American south Her business reemerged after the Civil War and prospered until 1885 or 1886 after which it was no longer listed in business directories Kevin presented his research in a paper titled A French Modiste in an American City Olympe Boisse New Orleans at the 2008 Costume Society of America Symposium in New Orleans Have you ever heard of Madame Olympe or seen a similar dress If so please let us know We d love to know more about her Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post I wanted The Museum at FIT to buy this when it came up for auction a few years back so glad you got it Clare Posted by clare sauro July 27 2009 at 11 33 AM We re so fortunate to have this in our collection Come and visit her in person sometime Posted by FIDM Museum July 28 2009 at 11 05 AM Madame Olympe is mentioned in Elizabeth Custer s Tenting on the Plains 1887 regarding a visit to New Orleans We had come on board almost wrecked in our finances by the theatre the tempting flowers the fascinating restaurants and finally a disastrous lingering one day in the beguiling shop of Madam Olympe the reigning milliner The General had bought some folly for me This was one of the memoirs she published after the general s death at the Little Big Horn Posted by William Logan November 15 2009 at 08 11 PM William thanks so much for sending us this fascinating reference to Madame Olympe We ll add the citation to our files Posted by FIDM Museum November 16 2009 at 08 31 AM Is there any way I can get a copy of the paper I am interested in Olympe Thanks Posted by Katherine Patin April 12 2010 at 11 14 AM Katherine if you d like a copy of Kevin s paper email me directly at rharris fidmmuseum org Posted by FIDM Museum April 12 2010 at 12 52 PM Wow Definitely one of my favorites of the era Can you tell me if the flowers are woven in or embroidered Posted by Beth Chamberlain September 01 2011 at 06 32 PM Hi Beth The floral pattern is a brocade woven into the textile during the manufacturing process Posted by FIDM Museum September 06 2011 at 10 51 AM I think my favourites list just got a new entry Posted

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/07/meet-madame-olympe.html (2016-02-12)
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