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  • FIDM Museum Blog: February 2016
    23 of 2015 s most notable films in a variety of genres Highlights include Crimson Peak The Hateful Eight Straight Outta Compton and STAR WARS The Force Awakens The FIDM Museum is thrilled to showcase all five Academy Award nominees for Best Costume Design Carol Sandy Powell The Revenant Jacqueline West The Danish Girl Paco Delgado Mad Max Jenny Beavan Cinderella Sandy Powell DATES February 9 2016 April 30 2016 open Monday Feburary 29 and closed Friday March 4 A Graceful Gift Fans from the Mona Lee Nesseth Collection Fan Félix Alexandre Artist Dumoret Jeweler France c 1875 85 Mother of pearl point de gaze lace gilded silver diamonds Gift of Mona Lee Nesseth 2013 975 2AB Fixed folded or fontage fans have cooled the air aided elegance of movement and spoken a silent language for centuries A Graceful Gift displays the fantastical ornamentation of these miniature artworks that hold our gaze and draw us in to look ever closer minutely painted leaves depict courtly lovers expertly carved mother of pearl scenes reveal convoluting cherubs and delicately entwined silk filaments form bouquets of lace As intended these remarkable late Victorian and Edwardian accessories are complemented by couture ensembles dressed for varied occasions that required a final flourish at the wrist Fashion Council member and world renowned gemologist Mona Lee Nesseth exercised her jeweler s eye when forming this remarkable collection of Belle Époque fans The FIDM Museum is enriched by her generous gift DATES February 9 2016 July 2 2016 open Monday February 29 and closed Friday March 4 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 February 03 2016 Streamline Moderne At the end of each year our team reports on the Museum s activities from the past twelve months including what objects have been added to the Permanent Collection As we compiled our list of 2015 acquisitions there were a few unforgettable pieces that demanded our attention These striking suede and leather heels from the 1930s are undoubtedly one of our Staff Picks for Favorite New Acquisition of 2015 Shoes 1930 1935 Suede and metallic leather Museum Purchase 2015 5 57A D There is so much to take in when you look at these shoes Does your eye travel directly to the graphically striped cuff Maybe you first notice the silver and black bow or the metallic heel The boldness of these embellishments demonstrates how the nature of Art Deco design began to subtly change in the 1930s Speed lines and smooth curves became the hallmark of what is now known as Streamline Moderne the 1930s interpretation of Art Deco Think of the blocky carvings and statues that adorn New York City s Rockefeller Center which opened in May 1933 The industrial design world embraced Streamline Moderne and examples of this style appeared on everything from cars to clocks Thanks to a stamp on the insole we know the shoes were sold by T Eaton s To our Northern neighbors this name surely has significance Eaton s was Canada

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  • FIDM Museum Blog: January 2016
    trade on the runway the Los Angeles Times admitted But this time the S M undertones and the gaudy excesses were out of sync with America s more conservative attitude 6 Women s Wear Daily found something to admire beneath the sequins and hype however Theatrics aside Mugler did manage to get a firm grip on the season s trends fringe skirts a herd of cowpoke chaps calfskin prints long shirtdresses transparent looks bi level lengths bare midriffs and even some bare bottoms 7 These sculptural gabardine suits studded with silver steer s horns were among the more wearable pieces in the show The collars contrasting yokes and peplum waists recall the construction of the Western shirts beloved by urban cowboys since the 1920s 1 Chicago Tribune October 23 1991 2 Chicago Tribune October 23 1991 3 Women s Wear Daily October 18 1991 4 Los Angeles Times October 21 1991 5 Chicago Tribune October 23 1991 6 Los Angeles Times October 21 1991 7 Women s Wear Daily October 18 1991 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 January 19 2016 Ranch Dressing Part 1 The American West has been a powerful influence on fashion since the 1920s when Hollywood films romanticized the cowboy myth and city slickers from the East Coast traveled west to experience ranch living as dudes tourists who dressed the part without suffering the hardships of life on the range The trend that gained momentum in the 1930s after the Great Depression began as a method of supplemental income for ranchers and became a booming trade for vacationers and couples seeking divorce legal in Nevada after a six week residence 1 Hollywood films set on dude ranches and divorce ranches like 1939 s T he Women fueled the fad and its attendant fashions Shirley Originals c 1946 Museum Purchase 2014 5 11 True Western chic was invented by cowboys and the moment you veer from their tenets you are lost Vogue proclaimed in 1935 Your uniform for a dude ranch or a ranch near Reno is simple but severe blue jeans or Levis turned up at the bottom once laundered before wearing to eliminate stiffness cut straight and tight fitting worn low on the hips in the manner of your favourite dude wrangler With these jeans go a simply tailored flannel or plaid cotton shirt or possibly a Brooks sweater a plain silk kerchief knotted loosely a studded leather belt high heel Western boots a Stetson hat and a great free air of bravado 2 Detail In 1934 Levi Strauss Co introduced its first Lady Levi s jeans tailored for the female figure as well as Dude Ranch Duds a line of Western style leisure wear for both sexes designed to capitalize on the popularity of dude ranch vacations Previously Levi s had been sold primarily in the Western states now the firm expanded its market beyond the West allowing would be dudes on the East Coast to purchase their ranch wardrobes before leaving home 3 A whole new audience discovered denim laying the foundation for a global empire Addie Masters California c 1939 Museum Purchase 2009 5 67 The plaid or gingham shirts and cardigans adopted by early female dudines or dudettes were soon replaced by female versions of a man s Western or Rodeo shirt They retained their contrasting yokes piping and cowboy themed embellishments but came in feminine colors and patterns with blouson sleeves princess seams fabric covered buttons and metallic embroidery and beading Detail By the late 50s the dude ranch was in decline though cowboys were more popular than ever thanks to television shows like Gunsmoke and Have Gun Will Travel Levi s duly renamed its Dude Ranch Duds line Western Wear 4 Sportswear manufacturers many of them based in California continued to produce Western style clothing appealing both to the dude who rides a horse and the one who rides the station wagon to and from steak fries 5 Indeed the lure of the West has never really gone out of fashion as our next blog post will illustrate Perhaps that s because as Vogue put it deep down in every American s breast is a longing for the frontier perhaps the most powerful of American motivations 6 Bodyshirt no label c 1968 1972 Gift of Women Helping Women 2001 788 3 Detail 1 Mary D Doering Patricia Hunt Hurst and Heather Vaughan Lee eds Clothing and Fashion Vol 1 American Fashion from Head to Toe Santa Barbara CA ABC CLIO 2016 p 322 2 Vogue May 15 1935 3 Lynn Downey Levi Strauss Co Charleston S C Arcadia Publishing 2007 p 59 4 Downey p 79 5 Women s Wear Daily December 17 1946 6 Vogue May 15 1935 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 January 14 2016 Fashion Never Sleeps With pajama pants and shirts slip dresses and boudoir style back in fashion this ensemble from 1968 recalls the trend for evening pyjamas in the late 1960s and early 1970s Pyjamas first left the house in the 1930s when women wore fashionable wide legged versions to the beach parties and informal dinners some daring young things even wore them to the theatre Evening pyjamas enjoyed a powerful resurgence in the late 1960s as pants became more acceptable for women around the clock Though women were still banned from wearing trousers in many restaurants and formal settings evening pyjamas were a heavenly way to dress for small dinners parties dancing in the moonlight according to Vogue 1 Evening Pyjamas Marc Bohan for Christian Dior Paris Fall Winter 1968 Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 77 116 9AB First reintroduced in Italy in the mid 1960s evening pyjamas represented a splurge of Eastern fantaisie optical illusion brash invention on an over your traces kick dusk to dawn 2 Exotic accessories like ostrich feathers chandelier earrings and turbans reflected the Eastern origins of the style elaborate bouffant hairstyles further refuted any notion that the wearer had just rolled out of

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  • FIDM Museum Blog: December 2015
    1972 I drew since early childhood art was always my favorite class My parents always encouraged me to draw paint and do anything to do with art I went to Pratt Institute when I was 17 years old It was a great creative time to be in New York That was 1964 I studied interior design before switching to Parsons School of Design in 1966 After that in 1967 I moved to Paris for a year It was a great school for glamour David Croland holding commission for L Oreal 1971 Then came New York where I was a model After that London for all of 1969 where I was also a model That s where my illustration career began My first assignments were full page beauty illustrations for Harper s Bazaar and drawing the Paris collections After London I moved back to New York and the illustration career took off Lots of work for Harper s Bazaar Vogue and many cosmetic companies I was asked by Halston to do portraits of his best friends Marisa Berenson Loulou de la Falaise Elsa Peretti and many more in 1970 David Croland Debbie Harry Photograph early 1990s Please tell us about the drawing of the woman s face that we chose for the exhibition s brand Why was it made Was there a specific inspiration or muse Looking at it today what do you like about it The drawing in your show was done for Henri Bendel as part of a shop where I painted the walls with my drawings and that face was used as a poster Donald Damask was the creative director and Geraldine Stutz was the boss The drawing was a bold graphic image that I believe spoke for the time and still looks fresh today David Croland Illustration 1992 FIDM Museum Collection Gift of Joan Beer Damask and Donald Damask Today photography is more prevalent in fashion magazine editorials and advertisements than drawings are Why do you think this is How do drawings communicate differently than photographs Drawings have a fantasy element that speaks to individuals in a different way than photos Less literal More dreamlike and they take the viewer on a different trip David Croland Illustration New York City Ballet Gala Poster early 1990s What are the pros and cons of digital photography vs traditional film photography How does the experience as photographer and sitter differ All good photography is based in the light the photographer uses Digital or film it is so much about how the light is on the model daylight tungsten or flash It s the light location and the attitude of the photographer and the model and how they click together to create an inspiring interesting image David Croland Photograph 2000 Would you describe some of your favorite projects or most memorable clients I have worked for so many clients The Halston portraits took one year to complete because he kept adding women that inspired him to the list That kept me busy and inspired also It was always fun to do fashion previews for Vogue Bazaar and Elle where I would be booked for a week at the magazine to work with the editors and editor in chief to create images of the clothes shoes bags and jewelry that were not yet in the stores These would be sent out in the fashion world to inspire and inform people of the coming looks for each season David Croland Fashion illustration late 1990s Where do you find your inspiration today Beauty of all sorts inspire me In the eye of the beholder Nature The ocean space colors the elaborate Couture ballet museums People animals vistas and new views in new places What advice would you have for our students who would like to become photographers or illustrators in today s fashion industry To students of any age I would say draw paint and create what interests you the most Look at things from different angles Go to museums and galleries for inspiration to respect our past and how it connects to the present and to your future David Croland Dovanna and Friend Cover of Hampton s magazine early 1980s You can do great work and have fun too Love DC Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 December 11 2015 Fundraising Friday Linen and Lace The FIDM Museum is in the final days of a major fundraising campaign to purchase the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection a private collection of 1 400 historic garments and accessories from four centuries Each Friday this blog will present exquisite pieces from the Larson Collection Afternoon Dress United States c 1908 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection Paired with a flower trimmed straw hat this white handkerchief linen dress embroidered in blue cotton thread and trimmed with cotton crochet lace is a breath of summertime in the depths of winter This rare survival is a type of garment often called a a lingerie dress Popular from about 1900 to 1910 these lightweight light colored dresses were adorned with embroidery lace cutwork ruffles and ribbons similar to the embellishments found on women s undergarments They could be worn for daytime events such as garden parties promenades and horse races As Harper s Bazaar noted in April 1909 The lingerie dress is one of the most vitally important item s of the summer outfit vol 43 p 426 Hat Europe or United States c 1908 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection The FIDM Museum has a once in a lifetime opportunity to acquire these rare and beautiful objects and many more like them before the Larson Collection is dispersed forever or sold into private hands But we need your help to save the Larson Collection Time is running out Please make a contribution online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign to donate 4 or more by texting Museum to 243725 Donations are tax deductible if your company or organization has a matching gift program your support

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  • FIDM Museum Blog: November 2015
    mannequins with the same attention to detail that a fashionable man or woman of the period would display This is particularly challenging for the Romantic Era circa 1815 40 The period was characterized by a flourishing of artistic literary and intellectual activity across Europe as well as a corresponding explosion of creativity in fashion A well dressed woman needed a myriad of accessories not including those largely hidden by her outer garments shoes stockings and several undergarments Here a dress of cotton batiste roller printed with brown flowers and vines is accessorized with a lace collar belt purse and gloves A cashmere shawl provided warmth without crushing the voluminous sleeves fashionable in the 1830s a lace cap framed the face beneath a bonnet stiffened with whalebone to protect the wearer s face from the sun All of these objects except the silver belt buckle a permanent collection piece and the ribbon belt and leather gloves which are props come from the Larson Collection While giving a splendid overview of the big picture of fashion history the collection is equally valuable because it so beautifully fills in the small delicate details for museum visitors students and researchers The FIDM Museum has a once in a lifetime opportunity to acquire these rare and beautiful pieces and many more like them before the Larson Collection is dispersed forever or sold into private hands But we need your help to save the Larson Collection We have raised more than twenty percent of the necessary funds but we still have a long way to go and time is running out Please make a contribution online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign to donate 4 or more by texting Museum to 243725 Donations are tax deductible if your company or organization has a matching gift program your support will go even further You can also help by spreading the word on social media using the 4for400 hashtag The FIDM Museum as until the end of 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help save 400 years of fashion history Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 November 12 2015 The Quilt That Came Down to Dinner Once reserved for bedspreads and bathrobes quilting began to appear on evening wear in the 1960s Newer than embroidery or beading on spring fashions for after dark is that old fashioned favorite quilting The Washington Post announced in 1965 It makes an unexpectedly elegant appearance on many of the new designer creations The quilting gives body without stiffness and adds a strictly feminine touch at the same time 1 Just as Sister Parish and other interior designers began featuring antique American quilts and folk art in elite interiors most notably the Kennedy White House fashion designers like Donald Brooks Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent brought the humble quilt out of the bedroom and down to dinner Arnold Scaasi c 1965 69 Gift of Jane Tucker Study Collection 2009 967 American designer Arnold Scaasi 1930 2015 was one of the most prolific quilters of the era A quilted gold stretch brocade evening suit that appeared in Vogue in 1966 had glamour with give 2 A gown of white and gold brocade had a matching jacket weighted with wadding and quilting to make the most triumphant entrance of the season 3 And a simple white cotton minidress took on a sculptural quality when stiffened by all over quilting 4 Detail This gown s metallic silk brocade in a large scale bird and floral motif is further embellished with quilting that highlights the leafy pattern Two rows of wadding at the hem buoy the A line skirt without the need for underpinnings and together with the Orientalist pattern give the gown a kimono like quality The technique must have appealed to Scaasi s love of embroidery and surface embellishment while also pleasing clients in search of the streamlined minimalist silhouette of the 1960s Scaasi would continue to incorporate quilting into his designs for the rest of his career whether evoking folksy handcrafting in the 1970s or adding dramatic volume in the 1980s 1 The Washington Post January 8 1965 2 Vogue November 1 1963 3 Vogue November 15 1963 4 Vogue April 1 1966 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 November 10 2015 From the Archives Sailor Suits In honor of Veterans Day the FIDM Museum salutes the naval influence on fashion with this post from 2010 Beginning in the mid nineteenth century young boys and girls were often dressed in sailor suits Worn as both school uniforms and everyday dress the popularity of the style was sparked by this 1846 Winterhalter portrait of Albert Edward Prince of Wales About 5 years old when the portrait was painted Albert Edward wears a scaled down version of the newly standardized white and blue uniform of the Royal Navy 1 Throughout the nineteenth century the Royal Navy was the most powerful navy in the world a symbol of the United Kingdom s colonial empire and position as a world power By dressing Albert Edward and her other sons in naval uniforms Queen Victoria indicated her aspirations for her children and her country As royalty were the trend setters of the day the fashion for sailor suits soon spread across Europe and the United States National versions of the sailor suit varied depending on the specific naval uniform of individual countries For boys the sailor suit consisted of a middy style top and either short or long trousers By the 1870s girls were wearing skirted sailor suits for school and play Whether purchased ready made or sewn at home sailor suits for children closely resembled actual naval uniforms In 1886 the U S Navy changed its regulations declaring that the middy top would be worn untucked and children followed suit Trim including chevrons eagles anchors and stars also mimicked the symbols of rank worn on naval uniforms An embroidery pattern in the September 1906

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  • FIDM Museum Blog: October 2015
    green and white suede boots from our collection frames and reveals an unexpected area of the body Exposed skin was equated with freedom of body and mind an indication that you weren t bound by the normal strictures of society 1 Donovan Carrie Dior Collection by Marc Bohan Successor to St Laurent Is a Hit New York Times 27 Jan 1961 1 2 Lobenthal Joel Radical Rags Fashion of the Sixties New York Abbeville Press 1990 25 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 October 23 2015 Fundraising Friday Winter Bride The FIDM Museum is in the final months of a major fundraising campaign to purchase the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection a private collection of 1 400 historic garments and accessories from four centuries Each Friday this blog will present an exquisite piece from the Larson Collection And don t forget to follow our Instagram account tomorrow as Mad Men costumer Janie Bryant takes over to raise awareness about our fundraising campaign Wedding Ensemble Great Britain c 1865 66 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection Although this Civil War era wedding ensemble consisting of a silk satin bodice overskirt underskirt and belt appears to be trimmed with fur it is actually swansdown that accents the collar shoulders cuffs and fine linen gauze overskirt a romantic appurtenance for a winter bride Detail The lace cap is adorned with glass beads and pear shaped pearls and anchors a square floor length veil of tulle This is one of more than a dozen historic wedding gowns in the Larson Collection dating from the early 19th century to the 1960s the collection also includes several veils and other bridal accessories and a man s embroidered wedding coat from the 18th century Detail The FIDM Museum has a once in a lifetime opportunity to acquire this rare and beautiful ensemble and many more like it before the collection is dispersed forever or sold into private hands inaccessible to students researchers and the general public But we need your help to save the Larson Collection We have raised more than twenty percent of the necessary funds but we still have a long way to go and time is running out Please make a contribution online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign to donate 4 or more by texting Museum to 243725 Donations are tax deductible if your company or organization has a matching gift program your support will go even further You can also help by spreading the word on social media using the 4for400 hashtag The FIDM Museum as until the end of 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help save 400 years of fashion history Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 October 22 2015 The Scarf Suit In the 1960s and 70s the three piece suit was a staple of a woman s winter wardrobe But instead of a jacket vest and trousers the female version consisted of a jacket skirt and matching scarf With their boxy construction and nubby texture these two examples both worn by socialite Betsy Bloomingdale are likely inspired by the work of Coco Chanel who paired skirt suits with coordinating scarves in the 1920s James Galanos for Amelia Gray Beverly Hills 1962 Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 77 116 10A D Los Angeles based designer James Galanos b 1924 used luxurious materials and couture construction techniques for his ready to wear garments The rough wool tweed of this suit contrasts with the smooth sheen of a silk satin blouse and belt Sheared beaver was a sensual choice for the scarf s lining Hubert de Givenchy Paris 1970 72 Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 77 116 13A C The wide fringed scarf of this double breasted couture suit by Hubert de Givenchy b 1927 is equipped with a pocket perfectly placed to warm the wearer s hand Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 October 20 2015 Intern Post Where the Stars Shopped FIDM Museum summer intern Becca Love a master s candidate at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York is studying the relationship between high fashion celebrity and the department store Her graduate thesis explores the celebrity status of Bloomingdale s While at FIDM she became interested in the history of L A s own Bullock s Wilshire a department store that rose to prominence alongside many of the beloved stars of Hollywood s golden age Opened in 1929 on Wilshire Boulevard Bullock s Wilshire was California s reply to the New York and Chicago department stores that had dominated American fashion since the late nineteenth century Fashion on the east coast was heavily influenced by stars of the stage as reflected in collections by Lucile Ltd which regularly designed garments to be worn by famous actresses on stage and off These designs were often reproduced in fashion magazines with variations being sold in leading department stores such as New York s Macy s and Chicago s Marshall Field Co By the time Bullock s Wilshire opened cinema had taken the lead in American entertainment and Hollywood stars represented the ideal in fashion Fashion designers became costume designers and costume designers became fashion designers Bullock s Wilshire was the center of commerce for the new silver screen royalty of Marlene Dietrich Judy Garland Mae West and others Howard Greer began as an assistant at Lucile Ltd only to open his own shop designing for the screen as well as for private clients Travis Banton and Adrian were credited with influencing New York s fashion elite through their designs for Joan Crawford and Katherine Hepburn Even Coco Chanel was brought to Hollywood in 1931 to design costumes for Samuel Goldwyn s production company a testament to the power movies held over fashion Suit Irene for Bullock s Wilshire 1950 Study Collection 85 25 Designer Irene Lentz Gibbons 1900 1962 professionally known as simply Irene started her career in fashion moved on to costumes and then became

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  • FIDM Museum Blog: September 2015
    sweater it could easily be from the same time period or from our own The Sonia Rykiel label is still going strong under the guidance of Artistic Director Julie de Libran and recently announced a revamped children s line for Spring Summer 2016 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 September 18 2015 Fundraising Friday Royal Wraps The FIDM Museum is in the final months of a major fundraising campaign to purchase the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection a private collection of 1 400 historic garments and accessories from four centuries Each Friday this blog will present exquisite pieces from the Larson Collection Queen Victoria s Dolman 1875 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection In the late 19th century a dolman from the Turkish word for robe was a loose front fastening overgarment resembling a cape with voluminous sleeves Often decorated with military style fringe braid and soutache the dolman was the perfect cold weather companion to the unwieldy crinoline and bustle skirts then in fashion Today the term dolman sleeve is still used to denote a very low armscye Detail These two examples were worn by Queen Victoria and her stylish daughter in law Alexandra Princess of Wales The Larson Collection includes 30 pieces of Queen Victoria s wardrobe and several more associated with Alexandra who became queen consort upon Victoria s death in 1901 Princess Alexandra s Dolman Dieulefait E Bouclier France c 1870 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection Helen Larson spent 50 years assembling her collection now it is in danger of being dispersed forever or absorbed into another private collection inaccessible to students researchers and the general public The FIDM Museum urgently needs your help to save the Larson collection Please open your own pocketbook and make a contribution online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign to donate 4 or more by texting Museum to 243725 Donations are tax deductible if your company or organization has a matching gift program your support will go even further You can also help by spreading the word on social media using the 4for400 hashtag The FIDM Museum as until the end of 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help save 400 years of fashion history Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 September 17 2015 Givenchy Goes Global New York Fashion Week which concludes today marked the first stateside fashion show by the venerable French house of Givenchy In honor of the opening of the label s U S flagship Givenchy presented its Spring Summer 2016 collection in New York rather than Paris Celebrities in the audience included Julia Robets Nicki Minaj Steven Tyler Jennifer Hudson and Kanye West But the show was equally notable for the nobodies in attendance 800 of the coveted tickets were distributed to fashion students and members of the public by lottery Hubert de Givenchy Paris Fall Winter 1967 68 Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 77 116 16 Born in 1927 Hubert de Givenchy is perhaps best known in America for dressing Audrey Hepburn for her roles in Sabrina Funny Face and Breakfast at Tiffany s as well as offscreen Now retired he recently published a book of his sketches for Hepburn His replacement at Givenchy was John Galliano who was subsequently replaced by Alexander McQueen A high low hemline is the key design feature of this otherwise minimalist slubbed silk satin gown from Givenchy s 1967 68 collection Along with a jumpsuit of the same era in the Museum s collection it could easily be worn today proof of the timeless appeal of Givenchy s quiet chic Artistic Director Riccardo Tisci celebrating his 10th anniversary at the LVMH owned label need look no further than the brand s own archive for inspiration Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 September 15 2015 A Conversation with Donald Damask In 2013 Donald and Joan Damask donated an amazing collection to the FIDM Museum including fashion photography theatrical costume sketches scenic renderings rare art books vintage clothing and world dress A selection from their donation is currently displayed in the FIDM Museum Galleries in Inspired Eye The Donald and Joan Damask Design Collection at the FIDM Museum In this blog post Associate Curator Christina Johnson interviews Donald Damask about inspiration his career collecting and what he d like students to take away from the exhibition CJ What does the term Inspired Eye means to you DD To have an inspired eye you must first be incredibly inquisitive must experience some sort of travel and must seek out ways to gain knowledge no matter how orthodox that journey may be The hardest part is the need to understand what moves you You must be in touch with your senses your emotions and your ever refining taste level Inspiration is just a culmination of your daily life You draw on it every minute of every day At this point in my life seeking out inspiration is what I do every day just for the sheer enjoyment of it all CJ You were Vice President of Marketing at Henri Bendel during the 1990s responsible for everything from developing advertising campaigns to inviting new designers to show in boutiques to planning launch parties visual presentation store planning and decorating the store for the holidays What inspired your work at Bendel s DD Two very inspiring people First Mr Henri Bendel himself and also Ms Geraldine Stutz the Bendel s president during the 1970s and 1980s Mr Bendel brought great style and fashion to the store He designed dresses accessories brought the best French couture there and designed the now famous brown and white striped cosmetic bag branding Mr Bendel was a big thinker and knew what turned on his very tony clientele Ms Stutz brought whimsy sophistication fun and an amazing sense of style to the store It was almost like the Bendel client was part of fashion cult from somewhere Her brainchildren in the store were the Street of

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  • FIDM Museum Blog: August 2015
    company has a matching gift program your support will go even further Follow the progress of the campaign in real time on our online scoreboard You can also help by spreading the word on social media using the 4for400 hashtag The FIDM Museum as until the end of 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help save 400 years of fashion history 1 Quoted in Jane Roberts George III and Queen Charlotte Patronage Collecting and Court Taste London Royal Collection 2004 72 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 August 20 2015 Delivering Dietrich s Dress Last fall the FIDM Museum lent a Marlene Dietrich dress to the exhibition Light Noir Emigrés and Exiles in Hollywood 1933 1950 at the Skirball Cultural Center in Los Angeles The strapless evening gown in a paisley floral pattern created by fashion designer and costumer Irene Lentz Gibbons better known as Irene is part of a collection of several garments and accessories worn by Dietrich currently on loan to the FIDM Museum by the City of Los Angeles Department of Recreation and Parks Unusually Dietrich wore this gown both on and off screen As Light Noir curator Doris Berger explained in an interview on the SkirBlog Dietrich wore the dress while entertaining American troops in Italy in 1944 in support to win the war against the Nazis Shortly after the war Billy Wilder wanted her to play the role of a songstress in postwar Berlin in his film A Foreign Affair 1948 which is a lot about survival strategies during and after the war Dietrich didn t want to play that role as the character has a Nazi past but Wilder convinced her Dietrich gave the film a personal note by wearing the same dress in one of the movie s scenes So she wore the dress in real life and then in a feature film imitating that reality The Skirball exhibition closed in March but it is about to embark on a tour of other venues beginning with the the Illinois Holocaust Museum and Education Center in Skokie Dietrich s dress along with its mannequin and accessories is in the process of being carefully packed and crated for transport to Skokie and beyond Photo courtesy Skirball Cultural Center Just as Dietrich s dress once circled the globe to entertain troops fighting World War II it is leaving Los Angeles once more to tell the story of German speaking exiles and émigrés who fled Nazi Europe and subsequently shaped Hollywood s Golden Age The mode of travel may not be movie star glamorous but these careful preparations ensure that the beautiful and fragile gown will to speak to future generations with equal eloquence Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 1 August 18 2015 This Saturday A Taste of the Emmys Join us this Saturday August 22 in the FIDM Museum foyer for tasty TV inspired treats in honor of our 9th Annual Outstanding Art of Television Costume Design exhibition Relive The Affair with Savory Seaside Dips Experience Orange is the New Black with Contraband Candy Bar Brownies and Crazy Eyes Chocolate and Vanilla Swirl Fudge Escape to Portlandia with Nance s Lavender Shortbread Cookies and Babysitter s Mac and Cheese Then stay to tour the exhibition and browse the FIDM Museum Shop The galleries are open 10am 5pm and treats will be served 11am to 1pm admission as always is free Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 August 14 2015 Fundraising Friday Meet Maison Félix The FIDM Museum is in the final months of a major fundraising campaign to purchase the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection a private collection of 1 400 historic garments and accessories from four centuries Each Friday this blog will present an exquisite piece from the Larson Collection Opera Gown Maison Félix Paris c 1887 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection Although virtually forgotten today Maison Félix was one of the major Parisian couture houses of the late nineteenth century competing directly with the so called father of haute couture Charles Frederick Worth As one newspaper reported in 1901 even in the palmiest days of Worth often styled the greatest man dressmaker of the world the house of Mr Felix could boast a proud supremacy 1 Jointly owned by brothers Auguste and Emile Poussineau the house dressed socialites and celebrities including actress Sarah Bernhardt Countess Craven who wore the gown above as her wedding dress and Madame X who chose a Félix gown for John Singer Sargent s iconic portrait before closing abruptly in 1901 2 Madame X Madame Pierre Gautreau John Singer Sargent 1883 84 Oil on canvas Metropolitan Museum of Art acc no 16 53 www metmuseum org The Larson Collection includes three ensembles by Maision Félix two of them are currently on display as part of the exhibition Fleurs Botanicals in Dress from the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection If acquired they would complement a fourth Félix already in the permanent collection Reception Gown Maison Félix Paris c 1893 95 Museum Purchase 2008 5 51AB Detail of 2008 5 51AB One of the Larson gowns has just been adopted for the museum by donors Joady and Jerry Goreclick meaning that they contributed the funds necessary to acquire the piece If the FIDM Museum meets its fundraising goal and purchases the Larson Collection their names will be permanently attached to the gown and it will be exhibited and published as the Gift of Joady and Jerry Goreclick Our heartfelt thanks to Joady and Jerry Curator Kevin Jones and donors Joady and Jerry Goreclick with the Maison Félix gown they adopted for the museum at the opening of Fleurs Botanicals in Dress from the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection Helen Larson spent 50 years assembling her collection now it is in danger of being dispersed forever or absorbed into another private collection inac cessible to students researchers and the general public The FIDM Museum urgently needs your help to save the Larson collection

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  • FIDM Museum Blog: July 2015
    or join our 4for400 social media campaign Donations are tax deductible if your company has a matching gift program your support will go even further The FIDM Museum has until the end of 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help make fashion history Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 1 July 23 2015 Fleurs Botanicals in Dress The Outstanding Art of Television Costume Design exhibition wasn t the only one to open this week in our Los Angeles galleries Another new installation Fleurs Botanicals in Dress from the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection examines sartorial techniques that create eternal springtime and flowers that never fade trompe l oeil woven petals shade embroidered leaves and three dimensional silk bouquets Ball Gown American c 1852 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection In addition to these botanically inspired gowns the exhibition includes the flowered lace roundel made for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert recently featured on the blog Fleurs Botanicals in Dress from the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection is open Tuesday Saturday 10am 5pm until December 19 Like all of our exhibitions it is free to the public Also on display is Inspired Eye The Donald and Joan Damask Design Collection at the FIDM Museum Opera Gown Félix Paris c 1887 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection is a private collection of 1 200 historic garments and accessories from four centuries which the FIDM Museum is raising funds to purchase You can help by making a contribution of any amount online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign Donations are tax deductible if your company has a matching gift program your support will go even further The FIDM Museum has until the end of 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help us keep these and many other beautiful and historically significant garments at FIDM forever Day Dress British 1820s Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 1 July 21 2015 Out About Television Exhibition Opening For the ninth year the FIDM Museum is hosting the annual Outstanding Art of Television Costume Design exhibition It opens to the public today after a gala celebration on Saturday night Unseasonable thunderstorms couldn t keep away the crowds which included designers Television Academy members and FIDM faculty and staff See more than 100 costumes from 24 shows The show celebrates the art and artistry of Emmy nominated costume designers and costume supervisors and includes costumes from Bessie Better Call Saul Marvel s Agent Carter Once Upon a Time Peter Pan Live Reign and 2015 Emmy nominees for Outstanding Costumes Gotham The Mindy Project Olive Kitteridge and Wolf Hall Emmy nominated costumes the Fox series Gotham by Lisa Padovani Emmy nominated costumes for the BBC PBS miniseries Wolf Hall by Joanna Eatwell Emmy nominated costumes for the Fox series T he Mindy Project by Costume Designers Guild President Salvador Perez This year the Television Academy has instituted new rules for the Outstanding Costume Design nominees In the past separate awards were given in two categories series and miniseries movie This year two statuettes will be awarded but they will honor contemporary costumes and period fantasy costumes regardless of the format of the show The new rules make it easier for the Academy to recognize contemporary costumes which were often shut out by period pieces in both of the old categories Thus The Mindy Project will compete against Gotham but not Wolf Hall set in the sixteenth century Jennifer L Bryan with her costumes for AMC s Better Call Saul also worked on AMC s Breaking Bad Ellen Mirojnick a 2013 Emmy winner for HBO s Behind the Candelabra makes last minute adjustments to her costumes for Cinemax s The Knick The exhibition is organized by guest curator Mary Rose costume designer and past member of the Board of Governors of the Academy of Television Arts Sciences Costume Design Supervision Peer Group Like all of our exhibitions it is free to the public Visit us Tuesday Saturday 10am 5pm through September 26 FIDM Museum Director Barbara Bundy and guest curator Mary Rose Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 1 July 17 2015 Fundraising Friday An American Duchess The FIDM Museum is in the final months of a major fundraising campaign to purchase the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection a private collection of 1 200 historic garments and accessories from four centuries Each Friday this blog will present an exquisite piece from the Larson collection Callot Soeurs Paris France c 1907 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection It s a plotline worthy of Downton Abbey a beautiful American heiress marries an English duke exchanging a dowry of millions in stock in her father s railroad empire for one of the most prestigious titles in the British Empire and the keys to a palace The fairy tale came true for Consuelo Vanderbilt 1877 1964 who at the time she donned this creation was the 9th Duchess of Marlborough Consuelo had been the wealthiest of the American Dollar Princesses and her arranged marriage made her mistress of Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire the only private palace in Great Britain Her magnificent gown a delicate confection of silk satin silk tulle and thousands of hand tinted and hand embroidered glass bugle beads is attributed to the French couture house Callot Soeurs and was likely worn as dinner attire The deep neckline would have accentuated Consuelo s famously long slim neck Although her illustrious marriage did not last this gown has been beautifully preserved a shimmering relic of the Gilded Age Consuelo Vanderbilt Duchess of Marlborough and Her Son Lord Ivor Spencer Churchill Giovanni Boldini 1906 Oil on canvas Metropolitan Museum of Art acc no 47 71 Gift of Consuelo Vanderbilt Balsan 1946 www metmuseum org Helen Larson spent 50 years assembling her collection now it is in danger of being dispersed forever or absorbed into another private collection inaccessible

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/07/index.html (2016-02-12)
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