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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Sleepwear
    to a loose gown worn by men an evening dress worn by women and a day dress Accordingly it would have been unremarkable for a woman to appear in public dressed in a nightgown It would also have been possible for women to quite modestly go to church in their nightgowns 1 These differing meanings of the word nightgown point to the fact that throughout much of history specialized garments

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/sleepwear/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Sonia Rykiel
    about which skirt length would be most fashionable retailers didn t know what to offer their customers Perhaps in response to the hemline controversy women began turning to pants as a fashionable alternative to skirts and dresses Though pants had been considered appropriate for casual activities since the 1950s in the early 1970s they began to move into the arenas of formal and professional dress High end restaurants many of which had prohibited the entry of any woman wearing pants relaxed their dress codes Pants also began appearing occasionally in the workplace Tunic and pants 1970 Tunic Sonia Rykiel Pants Unknown designer Gift of Anonymous Donor Tunic 2003 40 11B Pants 2003 40 21 Continue reading Sonia Rykiel tunic and pants 1970 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 2 TrackBack 0 December 14 2009 Sonia Rykiel Sonia Rykiel s signature garment is the striped sweater Her earliest versions were shrunken body hugging poor boy sweaters with horizontal stripes designed in the early 1960s The use of soft knit fabric often striped became a trademark earning Rykiel the title Queen of Knitwear Rykiel intended her knitwear to take shape on the body so early in her career she encouraged woman who

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/sonia-rykiel/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Sports
    recent graduate of the MA program in Fashion Curation at the London College of Fashion While in London Marley worked on a variety of curatorial projects including exhibitions with the Rambert ballet company archive the University of the Arts London and Savage Beauty at the Victoria Albert Museum Originally from Southern California Marley returned from London to finish her dissertation and spent the fall interning at the FIDM Museum During the final months of my graduate program as I engaged in the vicious cycle of writing editing and rewriting my dissertation I was fortunate to have the best distraction possible I had the pleasure of working with the brilliant staff of the FIDM Museum assisting with various curatorial projects that often allowed me to intimately handle dress objects and practice good old fashioned research methods Serendipitously my dissertation research on late nineteenth century and early twentieth century women s sportswear followed a parallel research trajectory to that of a future exhibition being planned by FIDM Museum staff affording me the unique opportunity of conducting mutually beneficial research An important rung on the research ladder is the consultation of primary sources and what better source for fashion and dress than a fashion magazine Contemporary magazines illuminate a hodge podge of era specific preoccupations that give insight into the unique socio cultural makeup of the people who read them Having worked with magazine archives extensively American Vogue is a favorite go to I was delighted to have the opportunity to utilize the FIDM Museum s collection of La Mode Illustrée a French fashion periodical that came into circulation during the mid nineteenth century As its title suggests La Mode Illustrée was dedicated to the dissemination of fashionable garments and accessories but its concept of fashion extended far beyond objects of personal adornment Stipulated underneath the scrolling title were the words Journal de la Famille a reminder that the magazine s content reinforced suitable feminine ideals Embroidery patterns serialized short stories and other miscellaneous family themed editorial content fleshed out the publication s pages The FIDM Museum s collection spans 1869 through 1911 a time frame that was conveniently significant to my dissertation I spent hours poring over the slightly foxed and occasionally torn pages While most people might find carefully turning page by singular page a tedious affair I relished the careful attention I was able to pay to each of them individually My focus was directed towards locating fashion illustrations of sportswear in its most literal sense Dozens of fashion plates showed ensembles for seemingly every possible activity in which one could engage Wedding gowns travelling outfits and even fancy dress costumes broke up the monotony of typical day and evening garments that were necessary elements of the publication but the illustrations of sportswear for outdoor activities were by far the most interesting Season to season La Mode Illustrée showed sportswear and activities that harmonized with the weather For example throughout the spring and summer young ladies are depicted frolicking at

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/sports/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Stephen Burrows
    1974 Gift of Jo Holzman 2006 871 9 This maxi dress like another dress by Burrows in the FIDM Museum collection demonstrates the designer s absolute disregard for the laws of color as fashion journalist Bernardine Morris put it 1 Each hue represents a different piece of fabric which Burrows painstakingly stitched together for a rainbow effect Bright polychrome garments of wool jersey and double knit were hallmarks of his body conscious styles inspired by New York s disco scene 2006 871 9 Here Burrows upturns notions of proportion as well as color attaching a modified T shirt to a maxi skirt The same dress in a different colorway appeared in Harper s Bazaar in 1974 the price was 32 1 New York Times 12 August 1970 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 August 24 2012 From the Archives Stephen Burrows wrap dress Today s post features a neon yellow jersey wrap dress by Stephen Burrows Though it was designed in the 1970s this dress could easily be worn today This points to our interest in recycling historic and vintage styles while also suggesting the wearability of Burrows designs Stephen Burrows first fashion show held in 1970 at Henri Bendel in Manhattan was accompanied by a disco soundtrack In attendance were not only members of the fashion establishment but also hordes of boys and girls in brilliant plumage who looked as if they came from the nearest rock festival only cleaner 1 On show were garments of studded leather form fitting sweaters and dresses of a simple fluid cut in a riot of colors As one attendee noted Burrows has an absolute disregard for the established laws of color 2 Wrap dress Stephen Burrows 1970 71 Gift of Jo Holzman 2006 871 12 Continue reading From the Archives Stephen

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/stephen-burrows/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Stephen Sprouse
    c 1985 Gift of Paul Magee 91 1138 At 18 Sprouse had dropped out of the Rhode Island School of Design and gone to work for Halston His 1983 debut collection was scribbled with graffiti in his own distinctive handwriting He began showing graffiti prints at the same time spray paint was becoming accepted as an art form Andy Warhol bought his clothes and later became his mentor allowing Sprouse to use his camouflage screen prints in his work Sprouse also collaborated with graffiti artist Keith Haring Though they may have been inspired by the street custom fabrics and hand finishing made Sprouse s clothes expensive and he struggled to stay in business In 2001 Marc Jacobs invited Sprouse to produce a collection of graffiti adorned Louis Vuitton totes which sold out before it hit the shelves At the next New York Fashion Week the tents in Bryant Park were covered in Sprouse graffiti designed to be viewed through 3 D glasses The following year Sprouse became one of the first fashion designers to collaborate with Target But his groundbreaking career was cut short in 2004 when he died of lung cancer at the age of 50 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 January 14 2014 Styling Museum Mannequins Today s post is courtesy of Associate Curator Christina Johnson Using a bright pink Stephen Sprouse ensemble as an example Christina describes how we bring garments to life with research mannequins accessories and styling Thanks to Christina for documenting this process Stephen Sprouse Spring Summer 1984 Gift of Deborah Landis 2000 435 1A C This hot pink knit sweater and skirt doesn t really look like much draped on a dressmaking form True the bright pink is exciting but doesn t the ensemble look sloppy even dowdy in silhouette It

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/stephen-sprouse/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Study Collection
    Art S79 429 1A E Continue reading Wool and linen bodice c 1904 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 1 TrackBack 0 May 22 2013 Versace Mare bikini c 1994 According to the inimitable fashion editor and curator Diana Vreeland a bikini reveals everything about a girl except her mother s maiden name 1 As Vreeland noted bikinis are defined by their scant coverage and are rarely more than a few triangles of fabric stitched or strung together Though the bikini is now a widely accepted type of swim and beachwear it took years for the bikini to go from scandalous to unremarkable Bikinis or bikini like garments appear in ancient Roman murals and relatively modest two piece suits were worn in the 1930s but the scanty modern bikini didn t appear until 1946 Sources differ but it seems that the revealing swimsuit was introduced almost simultaneously in summer 1946 by haute couture designer Jacques Heim and engineer fashion designer Louis Réard Heim called his scanty two piece suit the atome while Réard labeled his the bikini Both names made reference to the US military s July 1946 nuclear tests on Bikini Atoll a low laying island located in the South Pacific Réard s name for the revealing swimsuit stuck and a new style of swimwear was born Bikini Gianni Versace Versace Mare c 1994 1999 Gift of Dorothy Washington Sorensen S2010 1110 83A D Continue reading Versace Mare bikini c 1994 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 April 05 2013 Unpack fashion history with FIDM Museum s Fashion Council Are you fascinated by fashion history Interested in learning more about the twentieth century s most influential fashion designers and silhouettes We can help FIDM Museum is delighted to announce a new opportunity to learn more about the fashion and fashion history of the twentieth century If your class club or professional organization is located in Southern California schedule a presentation of A History of Women s Fashion The Twentieth Century Brought to you by FIDM Museum s Fashion Council this lively and informative illustrated lecture will provide insight into key moments in twentieth century fashion Participants will experience hands on learning with selected objects from the FIDM Museum Study Collection Interested in learning more about this opportunity Email Linda Plochocki Chair of Fashion Council s Outreach Committee at fashioncouncil fidmmuseum org Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 January 25 2013 Red and black ensemble 1894 96 In the 1890s most women s dresses were made to measure Though ready made clothing was increasingly common garments that required a precise fit or featured delicate embellishment were typically custom made either by the wearer herself or by a trusted seamstress Though some women had the financial means to purchase their wardrobes in Paris most women relied on the advice of their hopefully up to date dressmaker example gowns made in the latest style or on printed descriptions of new fashions Fashion magazines gave detailed descriptions

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/study-collection/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Suit
    blows of stressful urban living 1 Wilcox Claire Radical Fashion London Victoria Albert Museum 2001 112 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 April 08 2014 From the Archives Vivienne Westwood suit Happy birthday to Dame Vivienne Westwood Born on April 8 1941 Westwood s career has spanned generations of fashion from 1970s punk to her more recent interest in historicism Today we salute her work by taking a close look at a plaid wool suit she designed in the early 1990s British designer Vivienne Westwood b 1941 began her fashion career in the early 1970s just as the prevailing fashions began a shift towards the aggressive look of punk Embracing a design sense that explored the possibilities of decay and destruction punk was a challenge to the concept of clothing as a means to beautify the individual Though Westwood did not single handedly generate the edgy and confrontational look of punk her early work is closely associated with the visual essentials of punk style including bondage references and intentionally ripped or torn fabrics While these design features may seem almost commonplace today in the late 1970s they were a radical departure from the romantic and non Western influences present in late sixties style This new look was simultaneously shocking and influential Two piece suit with tie Vivienne Westwood Autumn Winter 1993 2004 5 61A C Museum purchase Continue reading From the Archives Vivienne Westwood suit Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 October 29 2013 Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga Fall 2008 Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga Fall 2008 Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 2012 116 4AB Cristobal Balenciaga was such a giant in the world of haute couture it s no surprise that his namesake house went into decline after his retirement in 1968 For decades the brand was largely dormant though the name survived by virtue of Balenciaga s reputation and the production of branded perfumes Though his haute couture salons were closed Balenciaga s influential legacy was undiminished Museum exhibitions celebrated his creations and designers mentored by Balenciaga including Courrèges Ungaro de la Renta and Givenchy became successful Though investors attempted to revive the brand beginning in the late 1980s Balenciaga languished until Nicolas Ghesquière became creative director in the late 1990s Continue reading Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga Fall 2008 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 April 25 2013 Out About Fred Astaire s tuxedo on exhibit at the RISD Museum In today s post FIDM Museum Registrar Meghan Grossman Hansen describes the process of preparing objects for transport to exhibitions at other institutions FIDM Museum has an active loan program and we often have 1 or more objects on exhibit at museums near or far Beginning April 28 see a tuxedo worn by Fred Astaire in Artist Rebel Dandy Men of Fashion at the RISD Museum in Providence Rhode Island We are always excited to see the FIDM Museum collection travel Most recently we sent Fred Astaire s tuxedo to

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/suit/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Sunglasses
    Boots André Courrèges c 1966 Museum Purchase Funds provided by Tonian Hohberg 2008 5 47AB Science fiction films like 2001 and Barbarella costumed by Rabanne and TV shows like Space 1999 costumed by Rudi Gernreich imagined a utopian future of tunics trousers flat booties helmets and mini dresses in lunar white or bold geometric patterns As Cardin explained The clothes I prefer are those I invent for a life that doesn t exist yet the world of tomorrow Sunglasses André Courrèges 1965 Museum Purchase Funds provided by Robert Nelson 2008 528 1A B These white plastic sunglasses with narrow horizontal slits suggest protective goggles or the bulging eyes of an otherworldly being According to the New York Times Courrèges direct unencumbered clothes were intended to be worn by young fast moving beauties his clients included French pop star Françoise Hardy socialite Lee Radziwill and model Marisa Berenson Rabanne dressed Hardy as well plus Audrey Hepburn Brigitte Bardot and Elizabeth Taylor Mini dress André Courrèges c 1965 Gift of Mrs Richard Gold 81 1965 008 1 With a Space X rocket launch scheduled for today a new Space Age is taking off bringing its attendant fashion inspiration Gucci s Fall 2014

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/sunglasses/ (2016-02-12)
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