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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Wiener Werkstatte
    chains on a salmon pink ground this Silver Studio cotton textile was created for use in interior decoration The stylized poppies used in this pattern are characteristic of British Art Nouveau designs of the late nineteenth century A popular British design firm the Silver Studio was active between 1880 and the 1960s Their products including wallpaper and interior textiles were mass produced and decorated countless homes across the UK Wiener Werkstatte c 1930 Museum Purchase 2005 5 170AB Dimensional felt flowers decorate the back of this Wiener Werkstatte girl s ensemble Founded in 1903 the Wiener Werkstatte Vienna Workshop was a design and manufacturing studio dedicated to creating gesamtkunstwerk a total work of art that united architecture furniture graphic design clothing and all other material elements of daily life into a compatible whole Fashion and textiles were an important part of this endeavor Wiener Werkstatte artists produced fascinating textile patterns This ensemble dates from the last years of the Wiener Werkstatte when the Werkstatte s style had moved away from contemporary art movements and towards folklore styles George Halley 1966 67 Gift of Clarissa Dyer 2003 794 8 George Halley s b 1930 linen dress features horizontal bands of chemical lace decorated with appliquéd daisies With their blue centers the three dimensional daisies verge on the psychedelic Despite this nod to late 1960s flower power Halley s dress is a perfectly correct full length evening gown It may date from the designer s first independent collection which he produced in 1967 after many years of working in the New York garment industry Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior Autumn Winter 1989 90 Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 2006 116 13 Gianfranco Ferré 1944 2007 stood at the helm of Christian Dior for almost 10 years His work for Dior was informed by the history of the house This model s title is Gruau referencing the artist René Gruau who famously illustrated many of Christian Dior s seminal creations The blossoming red hued flowers that accentuate the bust of this gown and its oversized trailing stole are direct continuations of Christian Dior s well known design vocabulary romantic and dramatically feminine The labor intensive flowers were assembled petal by petal each piece of red organza was individually cut embossed with veins curled and hand tinted Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 June 13 2012 Wiener Werkstatte girl s ensemble Wiener Werkstatte c 1930 2005 5 170AB Museum Purchase Founded in 1903 by architect Josef Hoffman and artist Kolomon Moser the Wiener Werkstatte Vienna Workshop was a group of artists designers and craftsman dedicated to combining artistry and function in the design and manufacture of everyday objects Like the 19th century reformers William Morris and Charles Ashbee the founders of the Wiener Werkstatte believed that mass production had diminished if not entirely eliminated the aesthetic appeal of everyday objects The overarching goal of the Wiener Werkstatte was to create a gesamtkunstwerk a total work of art that united architecture furniture

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/wiener-werkstatte/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: William Pearson
    Dress WIlliam Pearson 1970 2003 40 59 A native of Alabama Pearson began his career working under Norman Norell then designed for the California firm Harou before launching his own Los Angeles based label in 1960 At the time Los Angeles was just coming into its own as a fashion capital The country s second largest apparel market was best known for its inexpensive sportswear but Pearson joined an emerging group of serious designers lured west by the chance to run their own businesses outside the Seventh Avenue establishment including James Galanos Rudi Gernreich and Gustave Tassell 2003 40 59 Young and handsome with a square jaw and a Southern drawl Pearson looked as if he d stepped out of one of the classic Hollywood films from which he drew inspiration The fashion press even compared him to another attractive charismatic newcomer Yves Saint Laurent who had take over the house of Dior in 1957 Although Pearson had declared at the outset of his career that he d never move to Paris he did just that in 1967 As the Los Angles Times reported he became so frustrated with the fashion industry that one day he threw dozens of his

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/william-pearson/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Wrapper
    photography expert and she informed me that novelty photo presentations were quite common by the late 1890s Then as now savvy businesspeople used novelty to beguile their customers A photo with this orientation would have been displayed in a photo album or in a diamond shaped frame The relatively large size of a cabinet card usually 4 ½ by 7 meant that facial features and other details were easily distinguishable from a distance This made them popular for table top or wall display though they were also stored in family albums Continue reading 1890s cabinet card and cape Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 2 TrackBack 0 November 19 2010 Cotton wrapper 1863 65 A careful reading of Victorian fashion periodicals and etiquette manuals reveals that each moment and every activity required a specific outfit Though many woman surely overlapped their morning and afternoon dresses due to economic circumstances or other factors the ideal wardrobe contained a dizzying array of dress types Throughout the Victorian era displaying an understanding of appropriate dress including accessories for any given occasion was a way of demonstrating good taste thus ensuring social standing The Ladies Book of Etiquette 1872 describes appropriate dress for the

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/wrapper/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Yoshiki Hishinuma
    motifs borrowed from the natural world these textiles are the work of skilled artisans trained in a variety of techniques including weaving dying painting and embroidery The resulting textiles are prized works of art demonstrating the importance of textile traditions and workmanship to Japanese culture Lovely as they are these textiles are only one branch of textile creation in Japan In the early 1980s just as Japanese fashion designers emerged

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/yoshiki-hishinuma/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Yves Saint Laurent
    March 1958 Vogue lauded the new variety in fashionable silhouettes a whole lovely flight of new forms winged floating or held slightly away from the body in some mysterious way It is the variety of shapes that marks these Paris collections 1 In the accompanying 20 page editorial readers were introduced to St Laurent s A line trapeze dress for Dior Cardin s bubble hem skirt suit Madame Grès empire waist chiffon day dress and Chanel s slim two piece wool suit The hodge podge of silhouettes presented in the article suggests that Christian Dior s 1947 New Look silhouette was finally being surpassed by new approaches to the body The 1958 Vogue article credited the availability of varied silhouettes to the body skimming chemise dress which had become popular the previous year Also pictured in the 1958 editorial were sheath dresses made voluminous by overlayers of organdy or tulle As is true of the dress featured in this post the addition of transparent overlayers made simple sheaths more complex and intriguing Though inherently fragile the overlayer suggests a protective cocoon or an insect s exoskeleton In the black cocktail or evening dress pictured here the sheer overlayer is a voluminous bubble with diagonal pleats at center front A wide velvet band holds the transparent bubble in place To make walking easier the front of the skirt is fashioned from two overlapping panels Sitting would deflate the exaggerated silhouette so a fashion conscious wearer would have spent the evening on her toes S2007 897 8 The bubble silhouette was something of a fad in the late 1950s Both Pierre Cardin and Hubert Givenchy had already experimented with the inflated silhouette in 1954 and 1956 respectively By the late 50s it had become a popular choice for evening cocktail and prom wear In 1958 the New York Times called the bubble skirt one of the prettiest dance fashions for evening especially when paired with sheer stockings and evening gloves 2 In the 1980s a decade that witnessed numerous resurrections of 1950s style the bubble skirt made a comeback Also designed for evening this early 1980s Yves Saint Laurent haute couture design features a dropped waist and bubble skirt Today the bubble skirt makes occasional appearances on the street and the runway Most recently Miu Miu s 2012 resort collection featured 1980 s inspired bubble skirts which you can see here Evening dress Silk velvet and taffeta Yves Saint Laurent 1980 81 Museum Purchase 2003 5 20 1 Daves Jessica Paris Fashion Paris Collections Skirts Rise Waistlines Rise New Shapes Fascinate Vogue 1 Mar 1958 105 2 Skirting the Issue New York Times 1 Nov 1958 16 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 August 01 2014 Fashion Birthday Yves Saint Laurent Yves Saint Laurent was born on this day in 1936 Active in the Paris haute couture from 1953 until his retirement in 2002 Saint Laurent is considered one of the most influential designers of the latter 20 th century Saint Laurent passed away in 2008 but with the recent release of both official and unofficial biopics documenting his life his legacy is clearly experiencing consideration In honor of the designer s birthday today s blog post explores a Saint Laurent haute couture evening dress from 1979 80 Evening dress Yves Saint Laurent Autumn Winter 1979 80 Silk velvet silk satin Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 2006 116 54 This evening dress was model 85 from Yves Saint Laurent s Homage to Diaghilev and Picasso collection inspired by the collaboration of ballet impresario Sergei Diaghilev and painter Pablo Picasso Garments were comprised of contrasting shapes and color blocks like this gown s square black velvet shoulders juxtaposed with the rounded yellow satin skirt a style reminiscent of Picasso s set and costume designs for the Ballets Russes Notations on the fashion show program reveal that this dress cost 13 050 francs approximately 3 260 in 1979 Couture pricing is arbitrary and depends on the number of models a client commissions each season as well as her media value Famous clients known for wearing a certain designer exclusively are valuable advertising for the house and can receive substantial discounts or outright gifts of favorite designs 2006 116 54 Shoulder detail This collection was well received by both critics and customers The New York Times reported that attendees suffered over which styles they should buy They were traumatized by the fact they liked so many 1 Vogue gave the collection high praise calling it a collection with fireworks and fashion on the highest level of craftsmanship and design 2 At the show s conclusion audience members gave Saint Laurent a standing ovation Donor Betsy Bloomingdale favored the rich yellow color of this skirt She owned several haute couture garments in similar colors including a golden yellow halter gown in silk charmeuse also by Yves Saint Laurent The strong color combination seen in this evening dress was a defining characteristic of Saint Laurent s Picasso Diaghilev collection which featured intense colors punctuated by deep black and enlivened by a recurring harlequin pattern Picasso painted the geometric harlequin pattern many times throughout his career exploring the visual impact of the pattern itself and its symbolism In the 1905 painting At the Lapin Agile Picasso depicts himself as a harlequin wearing a black bicorn hat 2006 116 54 Back 1 Morris Bernadine Diaghilev Inspires Saint Laurent New York Times July 26 1979 C1 2 Paris Fashion American Allure Vogue Oct 1 1979 334 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 November 05 2013 From the Archives The Little Black Dress First published in 2010 this post briefly outlines the history of the little black dress complete with examples from the FIDM Museum collection During the nineteenth century black clothing was usually worn to signify a special status i e mourning religious piety extreme poverty or a position of economic and social authority Because many professional men adopted black suit coats after 1850

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/yves-saint-laurent/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Moschino Cheap and Chic
    Schiaparelli In addition to their underlying intellectual references Moschino s designs should also be understood in terms of a playful silliness He was aware that his more extreme designs sometimes bordered on the vulgar or tacky In 1988 Moschino declared We ve been doing vulgar unfeminine tasteless clothes People say we re not very refined But just go out on the street and see how un chic is humankind 2 In the same interview he called his own work a little tacky The Moschino Couture suit seen below is a more subtle example of Moschino s quirky aesthetic Perfectly appropriate and wearable it is only on close examination that the somewhat outlandish comedy tragedy buttons become apparent Comedy tragedy suit Moschino Couture 1992 93 FIDM Museum Purchase 2005 5 40A D Side view of 2005 5 40A D Based on what you ve seen of Moschino s aesthetic what do you think Tacky vulgar or just playful 1 Gross Michael Moschino Milan s Impertinent Designer New York Times 9 Oct 1986 C8 2 Hochswender Wendy Patterns New York Times 6 Dec 1988 B16 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post e None of the above It seems more like attention grabbing marketing to me Schiaparelli and Dali were both consummately capable artists in the traditions of their craft as well as exceedingly creative and innovative in extending or distorting if you prefer their art I don t see that talent in Moschino at least as presented here The cut of the garments is bland and the attention grabbing additions are poorly implemented at best Posted by catx November 26 2009 at 10 12 PM Hmmm I ve been thinking about your comment Catx I think that part

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/11/moschino-cheap-and-chic.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: And the winner is...
    entered our High Style Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture catalog giveaway The winner selected at random is Diana Fashion and Feathers about a c 1905 hat is Diana s favorite FIDM Museum blog post It was a pleasure to read all your thoughts on our entries thus far please keep those comments coming Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments are moderated and will not appear until approved by the author Post another comment The letters and numbers you entered did not match the image Please try again As a final step before posting your comment enter the letters and numbers you see in the image below This prevents automated programs from posting comments Having trouble reading this image View an alternate Post a comment Comments are moderated and will not appear until the author has approved them Comment below or sign in with Typepad Facebook Twitter Google and more You are

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/12/and-the-winner-is.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Summer Exhibitions Preview!
    their lives to creating and collecting outstanding design Evening Dress British 1820s Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection FIDM Museum Proposed Acquisition L2010 3 3 Two additional shows will feature highlights from The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection In Los Angeles Fleurs Botanicals in Dress from the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection opening July 18 will examine how botanicals have grown around the human body for centuries through trompe l oeil woven petals shade embroidered leaves and dimensional silk bouquet applications Detail of L2010 3 3 Fleurs will replace Opulent Art 18th Century Dress from The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection which is on view until July 2nd in the museum s Larson Gallery Fundraising is underway to keep the Larson Collection at FIDM permanently offering you a chance to be a part of fashion history having your name perpetually included in the object s credit line as well as receiving a tax deduction Day Gown detail British 1860s Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection FIDM Museum Proposed Acquisition L2011 13 337AB On FIDM s Orange County campus Hooped 1860s Dress from the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection opening July 25 by appointment only will revisit the decade when women s dress expanded to enormous circumferences thanks to hoopskirts made of graduated sprung steel rings held together with vertical cotton tapes This infrastructure suspended many yards of fabric around the waist without the need for multiple starched petticoats freeing the legs and creating an elegant sway in motion Watch the FIDM Museum website for special events related to all three of these beautiful exhibitions Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/04/summer-exhibitions-preview.html (2016-02-12)
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