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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Fundraising Friday: Move Over, Cinderella
    1967 It is unlikely that such famous footwear would be allowed to leave Europe today due to modern laws preventing the export of objects of cultural heritage But in the mid 20th century Larson s insatiable penchant for royal relics allowed her to acquire dozens of items from the wardrobes of Queen Victoria and her children Princess Alexandra of Wales Princess Mary Queen Elisabeth of Romania Queen Louise of Denmark and many other crowned heads Evening Shoes Silk satin with grosgrain ruffles c 1870 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection The FIDM Museum has a once in a lifetime opportunity to acquire these rare and beautiful artifacts before they are dispersed forever or absorbed into a private collection inaccessible to students researchers and the general public But we need your help to save the Larson Collection We have raised more than twenty percent of the necessary funds but we still have a long way to go and time is running out Please make a contribution online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign to donate 4 or more by texting Museum to 243725 Donations are tax deductible if your company or organization has a matching gift program your support will go even further You can also help by spreading the word on social media using the 4for400 hashtag The FIDM Museum as until the end of 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help save 400 years of fashion history Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/10/fundraising-friday-move-over-cinderella.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Space Age Style
    trousers flat booties helmets and mini dresses in lunar white or bold geometric patterns As Cardin explained The clothes I prefer are those I invent for a life that doesn t exist yet the world of tomorrow Sunglasses André Courrèges 1965 Museum Purchase Funds provided by Robert Nelson 2008 528 1A B These white plastic sunglasses with narrow horizontal slits suggest protective goggles or the bulging eyes of an otherworldly being According to the New York Times Courrèges direct unencumbered clothes were intended to be worn by young fast moving beauties his clients included French pop star Françoise Hardy socialite Lee Radziwill and model Marisa Berenson Rabanne dressed Hardy as well plus Audrey Hepburn Brigitte Bardot and Elizabeth Taylor Mini dress André Courrèges c 1965 Gift of Mrs Richard Gold 81 1965 008 1 With a Space X rocket launch scheduled for today a new Space Age is taking off bringing its attendant fashion inspiration Gucci s Fall 2014 ready to wear show paired mod shifts with patent leather boots while Rodarte presented a Star Wars themed collection Christian Dior s Spring 2015 couture show included retro astronaut jumpsuits But these nostalgic trips back to the future may prove to be less influential than fashions created with the same new technologies used by the current generation of space scientists Take Slow Factory boutique founder Celine Semaan Vernon who transforms high resolution NASA images of Earth into printed silk scarves or Nervous System the design studio behind the 3 D printed dress The results are truly out of this world Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/04/space-age-style.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Balenciaga
    a rigid corset and defined waist by the early 1960s Balenciaga s designs had pared down and moved away from the body Using stiff fabrics like silk taffeta and silk gazar Balenciaga created dresses that can be broken down into geometric forms The barrel shaped coat below is an example of this experimentation As the 1960s progressed Balenciaga concentrated more and more on exploring form Though Balenciaga didn t name his designs the fashion press labeled individual garments based on their resemblance to various shapes Most notable were the 4 sided dress 1967 and the trapezoid wedding dress 1967 S2004 291 15A D With coat Balenciaga was not interested in shaping the body into a predetermined form but on working with or around the body to create compelling garments In construction he placed great emphasis on comfort Arms were meant to slide into sleeves easily and the cut of a garment allowed for ease of movement Balenciaga s clients varied widely in age so he designed collars which framed and showcased the neck an area of the body that often remains beautiful as the rest ages It was even said that he had nothing against a slightly round stomach designing his skirts with a slight gather to allow for an expanding waistline S2006 291 15A D 1 Grandpa s Nightshirt Makes Good The Washington Post 28 Aug 1957 B5 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post All discussion of shape aside the color texture and print Stitching on this fabric is absolutely beautiful Posted by bockychoy February 03 2010 at 09 40 PM Balenciaga is one of my favourite designers I think it is the sculptural qualities of his designs that appeals to me the most I recently created a Balenciaga inspired dress out of mosquito mesh for my current installation at Fly Gallery Recently I found a similar design of dress by Canadian designer Wayne Clark on the sale racks To wear such a wide silhouette one has to be very slim Posted by Ingrid Mida February 05 2010 at 04 26 AM Ingrid Balenciaga is definitely one of my favorites too Working at a museum I try to appreciate all of the collection equally but I really am a sucker for Balenciaga Posted by FIDM Museum February 08 2010 at 11 17 AM Bockychoy the textile choice in this dress is really outstanding I agree The texture in the fabric actually comes from the weave the floral and polka dot forms are part of the structure of the fabric not an added embellishment Posted by FIDM Museum February 08 2010 at 11 19 AM Rachel just curious there seems to be gussets in the underarm of the dress am I right What about the coat Does it have gussets too Posted by elle April 01 2010 at 03 49 PM Elle you re correct Both the dress and the coat have underarm gussets You ve

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2010/02/balenciaga.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Quilted cloche, c. 1925
    cloche evolved with softened silhouettes appearing mid decade Asymmetrical brims often incorporating curves or folds complicated the lines of the cloche and provided a more flattering frame for the face Our green cloche with its flared and folded brim dates from mid decade With five dark green roundels circling the brim our cloche features the low profile embellishment favored for the style The contrast provided by the light green upturned brim creates additional interest as does the subtle texture of the allover quilting The interior is lined with black silk satin As there is no extant label we have no information about its origins or maker 81 25 6 The snug fit of a cloche relied on a specific hairstyle the bob A mass of long hair fixed in a complicated knot or pouf simply would not fit under a tight fitting cloche To be in fashion a daring bob was mandatory As long hair was considered an important component of femininity and a sign of respectability the short bob caused no end of controversy A 1924 article claimed that short hair was associated primarily with women bandits flask totters daring dresses and risque dancing 2 Though the latter part of this accusation probably had some merit these critiques indicate the level of controversy created by the fashion for bobbed hair The article goes on to describe several marital conflicts involving bobbed hair including one husband in Chicago who sued his wife for clipping her hair into a King Tut bob The judge in this case sided with the wife stating that since women had the right to vote they were certainly capable of choosing a hairstyle 1 Small Shapes Favored Again New York Times 27 Nov 1927 X16 2 Wives Have Right to Bob Their Hair The Washington Post

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/09/quilted-cloche-c-1925.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: FABULOUS! Ten Years of FIDM Museum Acquisitions, 2000-2010 opens today!
    including Madame Olympe the World War II propaganda dress our sculptural Adrian evening gown and many others Other exhibition highlights include a Redfern court gown a museum commissioned lace peacock motif Alexander McQueen couture gown and a court suit worn by composer Johann Hummel In the meantime enjoy these photos from the opening party Hope to see you in the galleries FIDM Museum curator Kevin Jones discussing the 1970s Roller Girl sportswear ensemble Platform featuring Alexander McQueen Redfern and Vivienne Westwood L to R Barbara Bundy Director FIDM Museum and Yvonne Hummel donor of Johann Hummel s court suit and related ephemera Court suit worn by composer Johann Hummel 1778 1837 This extravagant suit is made from uncut voided velvet with gold silver rhinestone and sequin decoration The suit dates from 1810 14 and was created in Paris Exhibition co curators Kevin Jones and Christina Johnson Redfern court gown worn by Ann Bloomfield Gamble Post 1873 1919 to a royal reception at Buckingham Palace in 1907 The gown features an 11 foot train fastened at the shoulders with hand carved shell cameos depicting female dancers in classical costume Platform featuring Versace a rhinestone embellished Catalina swimsuit and a Norman Norell coat with floral appliques Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments are moderated and will not appear until approved by the author Post another comment The letters and numbers you entered did not match the image Please try again As a final step before posting your comment enter the letters and numbers you

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/09/fabulous-ten-years-of-fidm-museum-acquisitions-2000-2010-opens-today.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: The 'Little Girl' look and nostalgia in fashion
    categorized as a reaction against 19th century industrialization the white smocked Lanvin dress reacts to the insistent emphasis on the new and novel seen throughout the 1960s Though the short unstructured silhouette is consistent with the 1960s the smocked bodice hints at an interest in craftsmanship and handwork something markedly absent in the earlier years of the decade Because smocking was widely linked with childhood innocence it also suggests a nostalgia for the past and what might have been viewed as a less complicated era This suggestion of innocence is also present in 19th century smocked garments By using a decorative technique with such strong associations of innocence and nostalgia the designer of this dress produced a garment perfectly synced to the little girl look of the 1960s S2003 5 16 Bodice detail Nostalgia and historic revivals are consistent themes in fashion Though fashion is inherently fascinated with the new so called new looks are often revivals or reinterpretations of historic styles Nostalgic revivals of past fashions seem to appear most frequently in times of rapid social change as if looking to the past can provide an anchor There s also the aesthetic aspect of historic revivals do some exceptional designs or decorative elements demand repeating Maybe the is the case with smocking which has reappeared numerous times since it s initial popularity in the late 19th century Historic revivals raise a number of compelling questions Can a historic style be referenced in a way that feels new Does an acknowledgment of the connections between past and present make for a more compelling design Is it important or possible to discard historicism in favor of moving forward S2003 5 16 Side view 1 McCormack Patricia The Little Girl Look New York Times 15 Nov 1968 B1 Posted by FIDM Museum

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2010/07/the-little-girl-look-and-nostalgia-in-fashion.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Why the Sixties Were Swinging
    in 1966 epitomizes what The Chicago Tribune called the new come hither look for Spring 1968 That slippery dancing fringe is the key to the new sexy fashions the Tribune noted in reference to a photo of a very similar model St Laurent draped one slithery little print and bordered it in black fringe The look spelled out the 1940s sensuousness of Rosie the Riveter on her night off 2 The swinging swaying fringe at the hem belt and attached scarf danced alternately concealing and revealing as the wearer moved to the beat of her own drum Saint Laurent repeated the fringed hem on a velvet minidress in his Rive Gauche collection the following season Vogue extolled the allure of the fringe swinging against sheer black leggy legs 3 Detail Within a year the sleek sensual fringe binge had conquered fashion It no longer evoked the boudoir alone fringed leather garments often incorporated Native American influences In a fringe themed spread in the August 1969 issue of Vogue British model Penelope Tree whose great fringy eyes have by now become household eyes on two continents modeled fringed dresses tunics ponchos boots belts and bikinis by Bonnie Cashin Paraphernalia and Giorgio di Saint Angelo Fringe more fringe even the fringe has fringe Fringe all over clothes maybe a fantasy fringe wig of ribbon or yarn 4 It may have been hippy but it was undeniably chic 1 Women s Wear Daily January 4 1968 2 The Chicago Tribune February 26 1968 3 Vogue September 15 1969 4 Vogue August 1 1969 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Every woman has a truly great era in her life and mine was 1963 69 inclusive Towards the end of

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2016/01/when-saint-laurent-swung.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Fashion Birthday: Yves Saint Laurent
    s square black velvet shoulders juxtaposed with the rounded yellow satin skirt a style reminiscent of Picasso s set and costume designs for the Ballets Russes Notations on the fashion show program reveal that this dress cost 13 050 francs approximately 3 260 in 1979 Couture pricing is arbitrary and depends on the number of models a client commissions each season as well as her media value Famous clients known for wearing a certain designer exclusively are valuable advertising for the house and can receive substantial discounts or outright gifts of favorite designs 2006 116 54 Shoulder detail This collection was well received by both critics and customers The New York Times reported that attendees suffered over which styles they should buy They were traumatized by the fact they liked so many 1 Vogue gave the collection high praise calling it a collection with fireworks and fashion on the highest level of craftsmanship and design 2 At the show s conclusion audience members gave Saint Laurent a standing ovation Donor Betsy Bloomingdale favored the rich yellow color of this skirt She owned several haute couture garments in similar colors including a golden yellow halter gown in silk charmeuse also by Yves Saint Laurent The strong color combination seen in this evening dress was a defining characteristic of Saint Laurent s Picasso Diaghilev collection which featured intense colors punctuated by deep black and enlivened by a recurring harlequin pattern Picasso painted the geometric harlequin pattern many times throughout his career exploring the visual impact of the pattern itself and its symbolism In the 1905 painting At the Lapin Agile Picasso depicts himself as a harlequin wearing a black bicorn hat 2006 116 54 Back 1 Morris Bernadine Diaghilev Inspires Saint Laurent New York Times July 26 1979 C1 2 Paris Fashion

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/08/fashion-birthday-yves-saint-laurent.html (2016-02-12)
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