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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Yves Saint Laurent mini-dress, c. 1967
    daring than his haute couture clients in 1967 Saint Laurent founded Rive Gauche a ready to wear line A haute couture design this Saint Laurent mini dress dates from the late 1960s Blue and white floral lace rests over layers of transparent organza and white gazar The collar sleeves and hem are trimmed with navy blue silk satin and a belt of the same fabric completes the dress Lined entirely in cream silk the dress conforms to a provocative Catherine Deneuve comment When you put something on from Yves Saint Laurent s couture there is an immediate sensual experience everything no matter what it is made of is always lined in silk satin 1 In the image above note how the floral lace separates at the center back seam Instead of inserting a zipper Saint Laurent allowed the natural shape of each flower to dictate the closure Small snaps hook the flowers together and create a seamless appearance Flowers were a predominant motif throughout the 1960s decorating garments accessories and innumerable household goods Suggesting girlish innocence in the first half of the decade flower power became a mantra of the anti war and student protests later in the decade At the time Saint Laurent designed this mini dress flowers were still associated with an optimistic outlook As political protests grew more contentious and violent Saint Laurent responded to the darkening mood by designing garments with a military feel including khaki trouser suits The shifting political and social climate powerfully affected his outlook and aesthetic In 1968 after encountering the protesters of Paris Saint Laurent declared Recent political events make the Haute Couture a relic of the past 2 1 Quoted in Vreeland Diana Yves Saint Laurent New York Metropolitan Museum of Art 1983 34 5 2 Quoted in Steele Valerie

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2012/05/yves-saint-laurent-mini-dress-c-1967.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Bonnie Cashin
    King of Siam A Tree Grows in Brooklyn and The Snake Pit Cashin returned to New York City in 1949 and opened Bonnie Cashin Designs Inc in 1952 From this point on Cashin s aesthetic solidified into that which we recognize today uncomplicated clothing for women on the go fabricated in unusual materials Cashin is perhaps best known for her extensive use of leather and suede which she used as both trim and textile Her use of leather and suede came about because of a collaboration between Cashin and Sills Co a New York leather goods manufacturer Working for Sills Co Cashin designed garments made entirely of suede and leather and also garments made of wool canvas or jersey with the smallest amount of leather trim From 1962 Cashin also worked as the designer for Coach where she applied the solid metal fasteners that would become associated with her name and the Coach brand As an avid traveler Cashin was deeply interested in a wardrobe that could be adapted to a variety of climates and situations Thus she developed a system of layered dressing which resulted in a modular wardrobe that could be mixed and matched at will A Cashin five layer outfit from 1970 consisted of knee length pants worn with boots layered under a hooded jersey dress and a leather skirt all topped by a wool coat For additional warmth a wool mantle could be added on top The two wool coats pictured here are excellent examples of Cashin s aesthetic Inspired by the two dimensional qualities of Asian garments such as the kimono this style of unfitted coat was called the Noh coat Roomy and warm Noh coats were intended to be worn over other garments as part of Cashin s layered wardrobe Coat Attributed to Bonnie Cashin c 1965 Museum Purchase 2005 5 25 Detail of 2005 5 25 Looking closely at the image above you ll notice velvet ribbons interwoven with the wool yarn This textile was designed by Scottish textile designer Bernat Klein who introduced ribbon tweed in 1964 Klein s novel weave was a sensation and appeared on runways and in fashion editorials throughout the mid 1960s Beginning in 1964 Cashin worked as the designer for the Scottish company Ballantyne of Peebles This position required Cashin to spend at least part of each year living in Scotland where she probably encountered Klein and his textiles This coat was featured in a 2006 article on Bernat Klein and his textile designs in the Costume Society of America publication Dress The image below features a classic example of the Noh coat in woolly brown and black mohair trimmed with black leather binding at hem cuffs and collar Certainly warm the coat could be layered over other garments as part of a versatile layered wardrobe As fashion critic Bernadine Morris noted in 1968 women buy Bonnie Cashin s clothes because they are cozy and comfortable not because they bowl people over In a day when most

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/09/bonnie-cashin.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Giorgio di Sant' Angelo, Fall 1969
    new fabrics for 1968 Photographed in Arizona s Painted Desert and called The Magnificent Mirage the editorial featured Veruschka swaddled in layers of fabric and fur secured with artfully placed cords or leather thongs Later in Sant Angelo s career braided cord and thin ribbons of fabric would become important elements in his designs 95 193 2 Skirt detail Sant Angelo s first collection of clothing was featured in the March 7 1969 issue of Life The collection features all the basic elements of his aesthetic vibrant patterns textures wrapping and tying and an interest in showcasing the body A Tyrolean dress highlights Sant Angelo s restless borrowing from a variety of cultures and influences including Native American Asian and South America The full article including images can be found here Released just a few months after the Life article Sant Angelo s Fall 1969 collection featured another group of exuberant designs According to Dennita Sewell curator of the Girogio di Sant Angelo exhibit now on view at the Phoenix Art Museum the Fall 1969 collection featured a diversity of inspirations including tango dancers Gustav Klimt paintings and medieval illuminated manuscripts 1 The patchwork dress seen here is Sant Angelo s Klimt dress named after the Austrian painter Gustav Klimt The fantastical patchwork garment portrayed in Klimt s famous 1907 painting of Adele Bloch Bauer was perhaps the inspiration for Sant Angelo s flowing gold trimmed patchwork dress 95 193 2 Back view This particular Sant Angelo dress is well documented appearing in advertisements and a 1969 Vogue editorial shot by Irving Penn In the Vogue spread the dress was perhaps overshadowed by its model Naomi Sims Having only begun modelling two years previously Sims had already appeared on the cover of the New York Times fashion supplement 8 1967

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/09/giorgio-di-sant-angelo-fall-1969.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Put On Your Christmas Sweater!
    Christmas and Happy New Year from the FIDM Museum Galleries The blog will be on holiday until January 5 but you can follow our Facebook Twitter and Instagram feeds for daily updates from the world of fashion See you in 2016 Boy s Hand Knit Sweater United States c 1945 Gift of Helen Litt 2012 1163 4 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments are moderated and will not appear until approved by the author Post another comment The letters and numbers you entered did not match the image Please try again As a final step before posting your comment enter the letters and numbers you see in the image below This prevents automated programs from posting comments Having trouble reading this image View an alternate Post a comment Comments are moderated and will not appear until the author has approved them Comment below or sign in with Typepad Facebook Twitter Google and

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/12/put-on-your-christmas-sweater.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Selling the Scents of the Season
    F2005 860 1363 These marketing gambits worked In 1952 a Good Housekeeping magazine survey found that more women are buying perfume for themselves and the percentage of those buying it often has almost doubled 2 But it was even more popular as a gift Christmas was prime perfume selling season with Mother s Day a distant second Avon Catalog c 1950 59 Gift of the Annette Green Museum at the Fragrance Foundation F2005 860 1365 Lavishly illustrated full color Christmas catalogs like these preserved in the FIDM Museum s Annette Greene Fragrance Archive blended scent and sentimentality to promote perfume as the perfect present for the woman who had everything Seasonal imagery played a prominent role in fragrance marketing and packaging Charles of the Ritz offered a flaçon of perfume nestled in a Christmas tree ornament and bath oil in a Santa shaped bottle 3 The Elizabeth Arden catalog below included a pink bottle of perfume lashed into a miniature golden sleigh Elizabeth Arden Catalog c 1955 Gift of the Annette Green Museum at the Fragrance Foundation F2005 860 1824 Today the holiday season accounts for more than half of all perfume sales and new scents are typically launched in the fall to capitalize on the Christmas rush But the industry has changed since the 1950s men s and even unisex fragrances are a significant part of the market and shoppers no longer rely on catalogs preferring to buy online in department stores or from specialty beauty boutiques Elizabeth Arden Catalog interior detail c 1955 Gift of the Annette Green Museum at the Fragrance Foundation F2005 860 1824 1 Philip Scranton ed Beauty and Business Commerce Gender and Culture in Modern America New York Routledge 2001 2 Women s Wear Daily May 2 1952 3 Women s Wear Daily September

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/12/my-entry.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: From the Archives: Greetings from Lucien Lelong
    above pictures the Place Vendome the beginning of the Rue de la Paix From the late 19th century when Worth established his salon at No 7 the Rue de la Paix was home to many celebrated couture houses Greeting card sent by Lucien Lelong 1938 Gift of Monique Fink F2006 877 152 Dated 1938 the card above features a printed image of two women in late 1860s style dress Lelong s stylized L logo is imprinted on the lower left corner of the card This card pictures the Palais Garnier or Paris Opera House Greeting card sent by Lucien Lelong 1935 1940 Gift of Monique Fink F2006 877 156 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post So quirky and interesting to have these pieces in your collection I love that the Museum considers the designer as a whole and finds value in his holiday cards I always think art is so much more compelling when there is something more mundane to know about the artist as well Posted by Becky D January 03 2011 at 06 43 PM I recently came across one of these while looking through a family collection of old envelopes stamps post cards greeting cards etc The card itself is undated but the cancellation on the envelope dates it and is the Place Vendome It is a very beautiful envelope card signature dating December 7 1949 I hope to find more information on it soon Posted by Charley July 01 2014 at 12 34 PM Lucky you Charley Someone in your family must have worked for Lucien Lelong Posted by FIDM Museum July 02 2014 at 08 18 AM Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/12/holiday-greetings-from-lucien-lelong.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Fundraising Friday: The Philadelphia Story
    by Townsend Sharpless in 1815 it became T Sharpless Son in 1841 when it relocated to 30 32 South Second Street the second Sharpless son Charles a talented amateur artist joined the business the following year At the time the store was described as a wholesale ware room clothes cassimeres merinoes silks and vestings But Charles transformed the business working tirelessly to advance the reputation of Philadelphia as compared with New York and other large cities in the way of Dry Goods trade and in the process becoming one of the most successful and distinguished merchants in his native city 1 By the time this dress was created Charles was running the family business in partnership with his own two sons Robert F Reynolds Advertisement for T Sharpless Sons South Second Street and Trotter s Alley Philadelphia 1846 Courtesy of The Library Company of Philadelphia The FIDM Museum has a once in a lifetime opportunity to acquire this rare and beautiful piece and many more like it before the Larson Collection is dispersed forever or sold into private hands inaccessible to students researchers and the general public But we still need your help to save the Larson Collection Please make a contribution online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign to donate 4 or more by texting Museum to 243725 Donations are tax deductible if your company or organization has a matching gift program your support will go even further You can also help by spreading the word on social media using the 4for400 hashtag The FIDM Museum has until the end 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help save 400 years of fashion history 1 Encyclopaedia of Contemporary Biography of Pennsylvania New York Atlantic Publishing Engraving 1890 II 272

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/12/fundraising-friday--1.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: $4 Can Save 400 Years of Fashion History!
    earliest piece dating to 1610 Garments worn by European royalty including Queens Victoria Alexandra and Mary Twenty two haute couture designers represented including Paquin Doucet Chanel Callot Soeurs Worth Fortuny Lucile Félix Beer and Lanvin Collection assembled by one woman Helen Larson in Southern California over a fifty year period The only collection of this caliber in the world and impossible to duplicate today Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post I think it would be a great idea to have a donation tracker for this fundraiser so people have an idea of how much has been donated and what contributions need to be made Posted by Gene July 29 2015 at 12 16 AM When you text to donate you ll see the current total A live scoreboard will be available by our official August 4th launch date Watch the FIDM Museum Facebook and Twitter feeds for updates Contributions of any size are very welcome Posted by FIDM Museum July 29 2015 at 12 20 PM What is the campaign s goal Posted by NFL August 04 2015 at 10 24 AM I don t have texting capability how can I donate Posted by Sheila Morris August 04 2015 at 10 43 AM Thanks for your support Sheila You can donate online or by check here http fidmmuseum org support donate online Our goal is 2 5 million and we ve already raised more than 20 percent of that Follow our progress here http t2g bidpal net Scoreboard slideshow Posted by FIDM Museum August 04 2015 at 12 12 PM I love the social media campaign Posted by Sonja Carlin August 08 2015 at 10 12 PM Sorry about that Hope Try this link http t2g

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/07/4-can-save-400-years-of-fashion-history.html (2016-02-12)
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