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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Fundraising Friday: Royal Wraps
    style fringe braid and soutache the dolman was the perfect cold weather companion to the unwieldy crinoline and bustle skirts then in fashion Today the term dolman sleeve is still used to denote a very low armscye Detail These two examples were worn by Queen Victoria and her stylish daughter in law Alexandra Princess of Wales The Larson Collection includes 30 pieces of Queen Victoria s wardrobe and several more associated with Alexandra who became queen consort upon Victoria s death in 1901 Princess Alexandra s Dolman Dieulefait E Bouclier France c 1870 Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection Helen Larson spent 50 years assembling her collection now it is in danger of being dispersed forever or absorbed into another private collection inaccessible to students researchers and the general public The FIDM Museum urgently needs your help to save the Larson collection Please open your own pocketbook and make a contribution online or by mail or join our 4for400 social media campaign to donate 4 or more by texting Museum to 243725 Donations are tax deductible if your company or organization has a matching gift program your support will go even further You can also help by spreading the word on social media using the 4for400 hashtag The FIDM Museum as until the end of 2015 to finish raising the necessary funds so please join the campaign and help save 400 years of fashion history Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments are moderated and will not appear until approved by the author Post

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/09/ff-dolmans.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Making a mount for an 1870s dolman
    one that gives me problems Little did I know that this would turn out to be the problem child Correctly dressed for exhibition the dolman is meant to float away from the mount and suggest that it is being worn over another garment Because of its complex piecing I had to make three different mount prototypes to get the desired look I started with the typical felt mount that I constructed for most of the FABULOUS garments and then built an Ethafoam frame so that it would be structurally stable A jersey lining in a complimentary color helps to visually blend the support at the opening of the garment Due to the delicate nature of the objects the mounts are almost entirely finished before the first fitting If all goes well and the pattern pieces are precise only one fitting is necessary minimizing the handling of the artifacts Unfortunately this garment did not cooperate L2011 10 9 For my second attempt I went back to the mount system that I used for the High Style Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture exhibition The High Style mounts started with a clear plastic mannequin cut to size and then padded out to fit the desired garment shape Using this technique I made a mount for the dolman After trying it on the chest fit better but the bottom of the dolman wasn t supported in a manner that made it look like it was floating So I came to the conclusion that it needed the bottom of the first mount and the top of the second mount Mount number three is just that the clear mannequin cut at the empire line and attached to the pattern made felt mount that follows the hemline of the dolman Trial and error is necessary when

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/10/making-a-mount-for-an-1870s-dolman.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Givenchy Goes Global
    Winter 1967 68 Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale 77 116 16 Born in 1927 Hubert de Givenchy is perhaps best known in America for dressing Audrey Hepburn for her roles in Sabrina Funny Face and Breakfast at Tiffany s as well as offscreen Now retired he recently published a book of his sketches for Hepburn His replacement at Givenchy was John Galliano who was subsequently replaced by Alexander McQueen A high low hemline is the key design feature of this otherwise minimalist slubbed silk satin gown from Givenchy s 1967 68 collection Along with a jumpsuit of the same era in the Museum s collection it could easily be worn today proof of the timeless appeal of Givenchy s quiet chic Artistic Director Riccardo Tisci celebrating his 10th anniversary at the LVMH owned label need look no further than the brand s own archive for inspiration Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/09/givenchy-black-gown.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Fashion Birthday: Hubert de Givenchy
    wasn t nearly as well known as Katharine Hepburn so Givenchy assumed that an appointment with Miss Hepburn would mean a meeting with the star of The African Queen Instead the sprightly young Audrey Hepburn appeared and a friendship began that lasted until Hepburn s death Givenchy designed Hepburn s personal wardrobe also costuming her in many films including Sabrina Funny Face and Breakfast at Tiffany s By the late 1960s fashion consumers and critics were sometimes underwhelmed by Givenchy s quiet good taste and insistence on quality over novelty In comparison to the emergent generation of youth oriented designers like Mary Quant André Courrèges and Betsey Johnson Givenchy s haute couture creations probably seemed out of touch However even the critics who complained that Givenchy wasn t of the moment acknowledged the quality of his designs In 1968 a New York Times reporter wrote that Givenchy s evening clothes have a perfection that not many designers show these days 3 77 116 14 Detail In retrospect Givenchy s designs have a timeless appeal lacking in trendier late 1960s designs The black evening dresses featured here retain their elegance and could easily be worn today The September 1968 issue of Harper s Bazaar described this Givenchy dress as the early Christmas tree a delicate triangle of a black coq feather dress trimmed into the fluting curves of a fir tree springing from a small black velvet bodice The feathers flutter with movement constantly catching and reflecting light similar to needles in a coniferous forest To create this effect feather tips were individually measured cut sewn and glued onto the silk velvet Evening dress Hubert de Givenchy Autumn Winter 1967 68 Silk organza 2006 116 4 Gift of Mrs Alfred Bloomingdale Another late 60s Givenchy dress is equally impressive Deceptively simple

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/02/fashion-birthday-hubert-de-givenchy.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: John Galliano for Christian Dior
    aqua dress aqua ankle socks and thick soled black and white creeper shoes The exaggerated shawl collar was featured throughout the collection in a variety of colors and fabrications On the runway this collar nearly covered the head of the model creating a cocoon which enfolded the head and altered the line of the shoulders It framed the neck and face both enclosing and restricting You can view the entire collection here Throughout his work for Christian Dior Galliano has demonstrated a particular interest in accentuating the neck His first collections for Christian Dior featured a variety of choker style necklaces some of beads and others of metal coil The chokers were a reference to Queen Alexandra of Britain 1844 1925 who wore them throughout her life to hide a scar on her neck Additionally the chokers made reference to African tribes specifically the Dinka who typically wear beaded choker like necklaces as part of their traditional dress 3 Choker c 1997 Christian Dior by John Galliano Museum purchase 2005 5 67 Emphasizing shaping and elongating chokers essentially function as corsets for the neck Do Galliano s chokers make sly reference to Christian Dior s New Look of 1947 This collection which promoted the corset as essential undergarment for women is perhaps the most noted fashion collection of the twentieth century After the austere military influenced fashions of the World War II era it reintroduced the corseted silhouette so closely associated with 1950s fashion Whether or not Galliano s interest in the neck is tied directly to the history of Christian Dior it is fascinating to unpack the mismash of influences present in his work His playful appropriation of diverse themes makes for compelling and influential fashion Taken as a whole Galliano s work demonstrates that the impact of fashion

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/07/john-galliano-for-christian-dior.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Alexander McQueen Peacock Dress
    dress was a must have Titled The Girl Who Lived in a Tree Alexander McQueen s Fall Winter 2008 9 collection was dedicated to Britannia the symbolic representation of the British Empire Themes related to British history were a McQueen favorite the 1995 Highland Rape collection is perhaps his most notorious exploration into British history The Girl Who Lived in a Tree collection was conceptualized after McQueen had taken an extended trip to India His vision for the collection was fueled by images of Queen Victoria the Duke of Wellington and the Indian Empire 1 The focal points of this dress are the two appliqued lace peacocks on the front and back Native to India and symbolic of war and royalty these imperial birds recall Queen Victoria 1819 1901 who was crowned Empress of India in 1876 at the height of British Colonialism The black feathers over a froth of cream tulle evoke a mourning palette the same as Victoria s self imposed dress code after the death of her beloved husband Prince Albert in 1861 Moving into the twentieth century the strapless bodice and full skirt are reminders of Christian Dior s post World War II New Look silhouette which was popular at the time of the present queen s coronation in 1953 2010 5 73 In order to complete photography for the FABULOUS catalogue we needed the peacock dress before the Alexander McQueen atelier had finished replicating it for us They VERY GENEROUSLY express mailed their only runway version of the peacock dress to Los Angeles the same dress worn by Sarah Jessica Parker in the June 2008 issue of Vogue so that we could photograph it for the exhibition catalogue After photography was finished we immediately shipped the peacock back to London It was at the FIDM

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/12/alexander-mcqueen-peacock-dress.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: A Conversation with Donald Damask
    1990s responsible for everything from developing advertising campaigns to inviting new designers to show in boutiques to planning launch parties visual presentation store planning and decorating the store for the holidays What inspired your work at Bendel s DD Two very inspiring people First Mr Henri Bendel himself and also Ms Geraldine Stutz the Bendel s president during the 1970s and 1980s Mr Bendel brought great style and fashion to the store He designed dresses accessories brought the best French couture there and designed the now famous brown and white striped cosmetic bag branding Mr Bendel was a big thinker and knew what turned on his very tony clientele Ms Stutz brought whimsy sophistication fun and an amazing sense of style to the store It was almost like the Bendel client was part of fashion cult from somewhere Her brainchildren in the store were the Street of Shops the Fancy Gown Dress Department Wonderful World of Stephen Burrows Zandra Rhodes Zoran Lee Bailly Frank McIntosh Bendel black soaps the Bendel scented vetiver candle and amazing furs by Viola Sylbert Bendel s had the most creative inspired stylish clever windows displays in all of New York Mr Bendel and Ms Stutz together created a mecca for the most stylish women the most wealthy women in New York The Henri Bendel shopper was such a breed unto herself Most inspiring CJ You ve managed to build up an amazing collection of Cecil Beaton materials Can you talk more about what drew you to his work DD I started collecting anything Beaton in 2000 when I was the director of marketing at The Body Shop in London I was astonished at Beaton s proficiency in everything he touched and created whether it be a fine artist designing scenery and costumes for the ballet and theatre one such being My Fair Lady fashion design fabric design as a very prolific author of his many memoirs and tomes on the royal family and his very colorful close circle of friends Beaton did everything well and did it with the utmost restraint taste and elegance I related to him and he was truly inspirational to me CJ And what about the Willy Maywald collection you gave to our museum can you tell me more about that DD When I was VP of marketing at Henri Bendel I used some of Maywald s images to market the opening of the Bendel Fifth Avenue store and the Boston store I loved the elegance understatement atmosphere and technical virtuosity I bought my first three Maywald photographs at that time and then I kept searching everywhere for more They re really rare but I ve managed to create quite a collection CJ What should students take away from this exhibition DD You can t create anything in a vacuum You need to seek inspiration from somewhere anywhere Keep your eyes and minds wide open Take time to think and process what you see Students must believe that constantly seeking inspiration

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/09/a-conversation-with-donald-damask.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Celebrate the Emmys with the FIDM Museum!
    Live Ray Donovan Wolf Hall and Better Call Saul The FIDM Museum s 9th Annual Outstanding Art of Television Costume Design exhibition On Saturday September 12 from 11am to 1pm your child can create a costume from a fairy tale or royal court inspired by Once Upon a Time and Reign Kings and queens princes and princesses knights and damsels can fashion crowns capes magic wands and swords while expressing their creativity and imagination Free with complimentary treats Costumes from ABC s Once Upon a Time on display at the FIDM Museum Come back on Saturday September 19 for our free Pre Emmy Party from 11am to 4pm Fill out your own Emmy ballot for a chance to win a 25 gift certificate for the FIDM Museum Shop Throughout the day we will be serving complimentary treats and raffling off great prizes Costumes from The CW s Reign on display at the FIDM Museum The 67th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards will be broadcast on Sunday September 20th Our 9th Annual Outstanding Art of Television Costume Design exhibition will be on view Tuesday Saturday until September 26 admission is free The FIDM Museum shop offers a 15 discount to anyone with a Metro TAP card or county ID Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments are moderated and will not appear until approved by the author Post another comment The letters and numbers you entered did not match the image Please try again As a final step before posting your comment enter the letters

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/09/celebrate-the-emmys-with-the-fidm-museum.html (2016-02-12)
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