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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Fashion Birthday: Edith Head
    in Romance languages from Stanford University Putting her language skills to use Head secured a series of positions teaching languages and drawing at Los Angeles area high schools During the evening she took drawing classes at the Otis Art Institute and the Chouinard Art Institute Eventually in 1923 or 1924 Head applied for a position as a costume sketcher working under Howard Greer at Famous Players Lasky Studio later Paramount Not confident of her abilities she borrowed sketches from Chouinard classmates for her interview Though Head soon confessed her deception Greer kept her on in part Head believed because of her skill with foreign languages After getting her start at Famous Players Lasky Edith Head began moving up the ladder of success At first she primarily designed costumes for background extras In 1938 when Travis Banton who had succeeded Howard Greer left his position Head was promoted from assistant to chief designer In the 1940s and 50s she often had three hundred sketchers drapers cutter and finishers working on various costume designs 2 As a costume designer Head tried to accentuate the best features of each actress while also taking into account the character that the actress was playing Her costuming skill earned her a role as a trusted commentator she was often interviewed on fashion for the everyday woman and her name was used to promote everything from shoes and hosiery to ready to wear fashions Edith Head with three female models A hand written note on this image indicates that the photo was taken during the Screen Directors Fashion Show for the Audrey Hepburn film Funny Face 1957 Head and Hubert de Givenchy both contributed costumes to this film April 1 1957 Gift of Richard Bagley SC2011 1156 27 Edith Head and Grace Kelly look at a sea

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/10/fashion-birthday-edith-head.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Franco Moschino Survival Jacket
    credit cards And just in case the joke isn t clear Survival Jacket is printed on the back in stencil style lettering Though clearly mocking those deep in the fashion trenches the Survival Jacket is just humorous enough to diffuse what would otherwise be a sharp critique of the fashion system 2005 5 36A U Moschino was known for his continual interest in poking fun at the self importance of the fashion industry His public statements were often decidedly anti fashion In a 1993 interview he declared Fashion is a product of fascism I really think fashion will not be important in the future We ll have clothes but we won t have fashion 1 Born near Milan Moschino began his career as a fashion illustrator for print publications and other Italian designers including Gianni Versace In 1983 he presented his first collection of women s clothing From the start his take on fashion was both humorous and provocative his first collection featured dresses patterned with tire tracks and candy box hats In addition to the Survival Jacket Moschino s Spring Summer 1991 collection featured a belt printed with the pun Waist of Money Stop the Fashion System was another favorite Moschino slogan one he used in ad campaigns and printed on garments For Moschino humor was a way to force fashion personalities and fashion consumers to consider the role of fashion consumption within a broader social context 1 Bannon Lisa The Next Decade If the Shoe Fits In the Future We May All Be Fashionable Wall Street Journal Eastern edition Feb 3 1993 R7 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/10/franco-moschino-survival-jacket.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Out & About: Curatorial research trip to the Fashion Museum, Bath
    in The Woman in Fashion I was the grateful recipient of the 2014 Costume Society of America Travel Research Grant which I used to support a week of research at the Fashion Museum in Bath founded by Doris Langley Moore in 1963 as The Museum of Costume Doris donated a collection of historic fashion to the city of Bath with the understanding that council members would utilize the city s recently remodeled Assembly Rooms to house a costume museum Although she was never officially the curator she continued to acquire donations for the museum into the late 1970s Letter from Doris Langley Moore to Museum of Costume staff member 15 Aug 1969 Courtesy of the Fashion Museum Bath North East Somerset Council Thanks to Fashion Museum Manager Rosemary Harden and Collections Assistant Elaine Uttley I had full access to the Museum s institutional archives and focused on letters written by and to Doris object accession cards from the original donation object and installation photographs newspaper clippings and exhibition files I found this wonderful Picture Post magazine with the cover girl wearing our 1850s gown Picture Post 21 April 1951 Cover relates to gown in FIDM Museum Collection S2001 31 18A C which is pictured above Courtesy of the Fashion Museum Bath North East Somerset Council The magazine dates to an era when people did not understand the conservation issues arising from wearing antique fashion intended for preservation The article includes a portrait of Doris cataloging items in the collection Picture Post 21 April 1951 Doris Langley Moore with Collection Courtesy of the Fashion Museum Bath North East Somerset Council I know what it s like to plan exhibitions in addition to the research involved when I curate a project I spend hours designing the space selecting mounts and arranging objects to tell a story There is usually a lot of scratch paper involved more messy handwriting than I care to admit and also doodling Doris did the same thing for her first installation at The Museum of Costume as can be seen in this notebook she kept to document the process The different mannequin groups are being arranged by theme on this page Doris Langley Moore s Notebook c 1963 Notes for first installation Courtesy of the Fashion Museum Bath North East Somerset Council These documents are not digitized yet so I spent a lot of time with my digital camera as I looked through the papers taking photos to be carefully read over later Christina researching at the Fashion Museum Are you interested to know who took this photo of me hard at work FIDM Museum Curator Kevin Jones who accompanied me on the trip and was an amazing research assistant There s no way I could have made my way through all of the materials without him Thanks Finding mannequins with bodies and demeanors appropriate for eighteenth and nineteenth century fashion can be challenging In an era in which the specialized Kyoto mannequin had not been invented Doris

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/10/out-about-curatorial-research-trip-to-the-fashion-museum-bath.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: FABULOUS! catalogue wins Best of Show award
    print media To win Best of Show in this judged competition entries must be outstanding flawless and receive the highest overall score from the award judges According to the judges of the Print Excellence Awards the catalogue demonstrated a printing company s ability to transform paper into a beautiful piece of visual communication First the printed dust jacket then printed cloth cover and finally page after page of wonderfully executed renditions of photography and text Incorporate a variety of fold out pages and you have a piece that earned Best of Show Written to accompany our 2011 FABULOUS exhibition the catalogue presents a selection of recent FIDM Museum acquisitions as a 200 year overview of fashionable dress including women s men s and children s attire The FABULOUS catalogue includes full color images introductory essays by exhibition co curators Kevin Jones and Christina Johnson and a timeline that contextualizes developments in fashionable dress The catalogue features the array of garments and accessories that were on display in FABULOUS along with bonus images of objects not included in the exhibition Eager to get your own copy of the FABULOUS catalogue We still have a few available in the FIDM Museum Shop Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Congratulations This is a beautiful beautiful book hands down one of my favorite costume books and the award is well deserved Enjoy your achievement Posted by Susan Holloway Scott April 22 2012 at 09 02 AM Congrats Posted by Biernat May 01 2012 at 12 34 AM Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2012/04/fabulous-catalogue-wins-best-of-show-award.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Out & About: From the Street to the Catwalk Symposium
    on Issey Miyake s early work and Ilana offered an entertaining look at Rockmount Ranch Wear a historic western wear company Meghan presented a paper on a long term project involving an extensive archive of fashion runway photos Take a peek at this page for a list of the other topics Western Region members explored during the symposium In addition to the paper presentations a highlight of the symposium was the opportunity to experience Fashioning Cascadia The exhibit featured a concise selection of Pacific Northwest fashion designers working at the intersection of craft and fashion Curator Sarah Margolis Piñeo told us that she spent approximately a year and a half planning the exhibition a process that included visiting the studios of many designers located between Seattle and Portland The final group included a great mix of design philosophies from the iconic patterns of the Pendleton Woolen Mills to the work of individual designers working to refine their specific vision of fashion A full list of designers can be found at the Museum s website Unfortunately the exhibition is now closed though the Museum s website offers a wealth of information including video interviews with each of the designers featured in Fashioning Cascadia For those who didn t see this exhibition check out the images below Men s ensemble by Michael Cepress Seattle WA from his 2013 American Dreaming collection Anna Cohen for Imperial Stock Ranch Shaniko OR In 2009 the Imperial Stock Ranch began exploring how to better utilize the wool from their farm raised sheep Imperial Yarn was born and is now an important corollary to the Ranch s operations Knitwear designer Anna Cohen collaborated with the Ranch to create garments using wool and leather by products Adam Arnold Portland OR collaborates with clients to create custom one of

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/10/out-about-from-the-street-to-the-catwalk-symposium.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Flying First Class: Custom Crating for Alexander McQueen's Peacock Dress
    Lady McQueen as I like to personify her did not fit in any box and required a little room to stretch her legs And thus she had to travel First Class in her own custom built crate To prepare for the long journey to Bendigo we had to make sure Lady McQueen would travel comfortably nothing could happen to her dress This required carefully building volume between the layers of her dress By placing sheets of tissue between her petticoat ruffled skirt and lace overlay we created additional padding that provided protection in case she were to come into contact with the walls of the crate To further protect the dress we removed the mannequin s arms so they would not press down and possibly induce damage Sheets of tyvek an archival material that feels like a plastic tablecloth were then wrapped around Lady McQueen s dress and secured with twill tape We also wrapped her prop shoes with tissue and tyvek for extra protection Museum Registrar Meghan Grossman Hansen inspects the preliminary packing Lady McQueen ready to fly First Class The U S Art crating department fitted Lady McQueen s crate onsite at the FIDM Museum This method of custom crating requires great skill and produces an intricate form fitting art carrier that is practically a work of art itself The step by step process starts with a general measurement of how much space the object in this case Lady McQueen takes up in the empty crate Two members of the U S Art crating department takes measurements of the McQueen Peacock dress inside the empty crate Ethafoam strips are attached to the crate to make shelving tracks The tracks are used to hold ethafoam guillotines that keep the object in place Note that those in the crate stand on a sheet of tyvek to ensure the crate stays clean while it s being customized every detail is considered during this process Half circles are cut into sheets of ethafoam to create guillotines This set of guillotines for example is used to support the mannequin at the ankles a second set of guillotines is also used for the mannequin s neck After attaching volara an archival foam like material to create a cushion for the object on the guillotine the half circles are covered with tyvek as additional protection Lady McQueen has a fitting for her neck guillotine Once the guillotines are finished they are slid into the tracks to hold the mannequin in place during travel The mannequin s head is firmly secured by the guillotines around her neck Lady McQueen is ready for her First Class flight to Bendigo Museum Curator Kevin Jones says See you later to the Peacock dress as she starts her journey to Bendigo Art Gallery Kevin Associate Curator Christina Johnson and Collections Manager Dani Killam are currently in Bendigo installing Modern Love Fashion Visionaries from the FIDM Museum LA where they ve reunited with Lady McQueen For the next few months the

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/10/flying-first-class-custom-crating-for-alexander-mcqueens-peacock-dress.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Modern Love: Fashion Visionaries from the FIDM Museum LA at Bendigo Art Gallery, Australia
    John Galliano for Christian Dior Karl Lagerfeld for both Chanel and Chloë Rei Kawakubo and a Thom Browne men s ensemble straight off the Fall Winter 2013 2014 runway among others will be on display in Bendigo Australia from 26 October 2013 until 2 February 2014 Bendigo Art Gallery will also host a slew of exhibition related programs including two presentations by Kevin Jones Vivienne Westwood s Rocking Horse shoes on the runway C 1987 1992 FIDM Museum s pair of Rocking Horse shoes will be featured in Modern Love Photograph by Michel Arnaud Modern Love looks at how fashion has mirrored society and the world since the late 1970s and highlights the fashion designer as artisan In addition to the objects from the FIDM Museum collection the exhibit will feature videos of designer interviews and large scale projections of fashion shows within the exhibition space There has been an increase in the collaborations between famous designers and other visual artists over the past forty years and Bendigo will demonstrate this through the use of fashion ephemera Specific garments themselves that will showcase the use of fabrics or even total looks such as several Hiroaki Ohya pieces depicting anime characters These ensembles come with their own book cases or even fold up into book forms Some of the museum s most memorable contemporary pieces are going including two of my own favourite pieces the Alexander McQueen peacock dress and a tartan suit from Vivienne Westwood s Anglomania collection There are also some new acquisitions that will be displayed for the first time at Bendigo the Thom Browne suit and accessories I mentioned above and a cellophane coat by Issey Miyake Issey Miyake cellophane coat Spring Summer 1995 Photograph by Michel Arnaud The international aspect of the exhibit featuring the work of designers from Britain Europe America Japan India and Australia aims to show that fashion is a visual phenomenon which spills off the runway into our daily lives connecting the individual no matter who or where they may be to the greater world The exhibit does this through the mixing of haute couture by Alexander McQueen Moschino and others and street clothes such as Adidas sneakers with more expressive anti fashion pieces such as the Malcom McLaren and Vivienne Westwood bondage suit or Jeremy Scott and Georg Roth s political t shirts These juxtapositions convey the simple fact that whatever your socio economic status or whatever message or association you might want to communicate through your clothing we all get dressed in the morning The fact that all the clothing is contemporary will make this message more accessible to visitors who may not be accustomed to visiting fashion exhibits Thierry Mugler Ready to Wear Collection Spring Summer 1992 Photograph by Michel Arnaud One thing I always love in fashion and dress exhibits and which does not happen too often is when there is ephemera or art in the exhibit which is directly connects to or depicts the garments on display

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/10/modern-love-fashion-visionaries-from-the-fidm-museum-la-at-bendigo-art-gallery-australia.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Fashion Birthday: Charles Frederick Worth
    Charles Frederick Worth 1825 1895 began his ascent to the height of fashion as a draper selling luxury fabrics in specialty emporiums He fostered relations with textile middlemen whose valuable connections to the weaving center of Lyon helped him establish a maison de haute couture in 1857 The second half of the nineteenth century was a busy time for French silk production Established by royal edict in the fifteenth century the industry could boast more than 120 000 looms in operation by the 1870s 1 Worth not only bought pre woven damasks and velvets supplied to him by firms such as A Gourd Cie and C V Bonnet Cie but also specially commissioned designs with motifs he admired including feathers wheat and roses The bolder the patterns and the more striking the color combinations the better 2 Visitors to Worth s maison passed through multiple display rooms of textiles culminating in a selection of polychrome silks 3 This eye catching brocade of fully blooming roses in pinks and yellows on a deep burgundy ground exemplifies the sumptuous creations that made Worth world famous Once part of an evening or reception gown this skirt panel is all that remains of the commission made for a Mrs Scribner on her Paris honeymoon in 1878 1 Anquetil Jacques Silk Paris Flammarion 1996 19 2 Coleman Elizabeth Ann The Opulent Era Fashions of Worth Doucet and Pingat New York Thames Hudson and the Brooklyn Museum of Art 1989 74 75 3 Ibid 16 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/10/fashion-birthday-charles-frederick-worth.html (2016-02-12)
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