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  • FIDM Museum Blog: From the Archives: Jeans by Gaultier
    Ambition tour Gaultier designed a blue velvet cone bra to be worn by male back up dancers This bra complemented Madonna s own outfit a pale pink corset Jodphur style jeans JPG By Gaultier 1995 96 Museum Purchase 2007 5 15 Gaultier s belief that men should adopt clothing typically worn by women is unusual in the history of fashion Though women have a long history of borrowing and adapting elements of menswear women s dress rarely influences men s sartorial choices The realm of functional sportswear is one in which women have borrowed heavily from men In particular women adopted a feminized version of male riding attire beginning in the late seventeenth century A woman s riding ensemble usually included a fitted jacket worn with a full skirt designed specifically for riding side saddle For the dedicated horsewomen full skirts could be both embarrassing and dangerous If a rider fell a voluminous side saddle skirt could become entangled endangering the rider or it could fall aside and reveal a woman s undergarments For both of these reasons by the late nineteenth century many female equestrians began wearing riding trousers either under their skirts or as a garment in its own right By the 1920s women s riding habits frequently included the style of trousers called jodphurs some daring women even wore jodphur based riding habits as everyday dress These high waisted jodphur style jeans from Gaultier s JPG Jean s line update riding trousers in street worthy denim Knowing that they re by Jean Paul Gaultier you should expect some kind of twist Buttoned up these look like a basic and very wearable version of the ubiquitous jeans But unbutton the high waist and a trompe l oeil corset is revealed The contrast of white cotton with darker denim

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/04/from-the-archives-jeans-by-gaultier.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Fashion Birthday: Issey Miyake
    Miyake opened his Tokyo design studio in 1970 focused on creating ready to wear clothing Sometimes my clothes are radical probably sometimes challenging but I try not to fear radical things he explained 1 Miyake s Spring Summer 2001 menswear collection was termed Pneumatic pret a porter by the fashion press due to the air filled padding built into many of the garments This vivid ensemble was inspired by American football uniforms The blazer is constructed of printed nylon mesh generally reserved for team jerseys the knickers contain inflatable plastic bladders inserted over the outer thighs and knees to mimic players protective gear The clothing morphs the wearer s body into that of a sports hero enlarging his frame into an imposing physique while cushioning it to withstand the blows of stressful urban living 1 Wilcox Claire Radical Fashion London Victoria Albert Museum 2001 112 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments are

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/04/fashion-birthday-issey-miyake.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Karl Lagerfeld straw boater
    after menswear Karl Lagerfeld b 1938 has reinterpreted this now classic millinery design in multiple collections both for Chanel and for his eponymous label as shown here In an irreverent take on the yachting theme Lagerfeld morphs the ridged straw brim into an exaggerated arc certainly difficult to navigate in a strong headwind The hat is faced with a painterly rose motif chintz a pattern out of sync with the nautical hat but bold enough to highlight its impressive circumference when worn by a model sailing down the runway Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments are moderated and will not appear until approved by the author Post another comment The letters and numbers you entered did not match the image Please try again As a final step before posting your comment enter the letters and numbers you see in the image below This prevents automated programs from posting comments Having trouble reading

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/04/karl-lagerfeld-straw-boater.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: We're hiring!
    June 25 July 16 Mannequin dressing and museum experience required To apply send your resume and a letter of interest to internships FIDMmuseum org Applications due by April 28 2014 If you are interested in volunteering please submit your letter of interest and resume to internships FIDMmuseum org by the deadline above Volunteers are required to commit to a regular one day per week time slot throughout installation June 23 July 18 except July 4 holiday FIDM Museum installation hours are Monday through Friday 9 00 am 5 00 pm FIDM MUSEUM ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Summary Data entry track and maintain databases assist with Museum special events Reports to Museum Coordinator To apply for this position please email a resume and a letter of interest to info FIDMmuseum org Responsibilities Light accounting data entry in IBM i track Museum expenditures Maintain Museum mailing list Assist Museum Coordinator on department projects Assist Museum Coordinator and Public Relations Department in execution of all Museum and Museum related special events Available to work evenings or weekends as needed Assist Museum Coordinator in location and transportation of exhibition objects Make travel arrangements for department staff Assist Museum Coordinator in preparing budgets for the Museum Perform other duties as requested Qualifications Organized methodical mind with strong attention to detail Good communication skills Proficiency in Microsoft Office Excel Word Familiarity with Adobe Photoshop Illustrator Able to lift 25 pounds Education Bachelor degree in Business or the Arts Work Experience Experience in execution of special events 1 2 years business experience Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/04/were-hiring.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Who Plans the Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design Exhibition?
    the 8 th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design after seeing a snippet of it in a clip about a man restoring a vintage Hollywood film costume I think it might have been costume collector Larry McQueen and the program was on Turner Movie Classics It was then that I decided I wanted to work in a museum Not knowing how to go about that I enrolled at FIDM to get a Professional Designation in Fashion Design thinking I could then go on to be a costume designer and work my way into a museum through that method In 2002 fresh diploma in hand I volunteered to help dress the 10 th annual exhibition Mary Burroughs FIDM s Special Events Coordinator saw me I had worked for her as a dresser on several fashion shows while I was taking classes and told me to follow her The founding Museum Director Maggie Murray had just passed away and the new director Robert Nelson was up to his eyeballs in plans to get the exhibition open in time and was in desperate need of some help I jumped at the opportunity having skipped all the in between steps I thought would be necessary and began working at the FIDM Museum in February 2002 I would say that the first Hollywood exhibition I curated was in 2005 Printed materials for the Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition Mike works closely with our publications department to create these materials The Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design Exhibition takes up a lot of your time Describe your involvement in this How do you choose the costumes Do you have any behind the scenes seams stories Planning for the exhibition begins each January when new films start to come out in the theaters Throughout the year I keep an eye out on what films have been released and amass a list of potential candidates for our exhibition that often has over 60 titles on it My selection process is multi faceted and involves lots of input from other people My overall plan is to show the widest possible selection of time periods with the most interesting costumes available while managing to attain costumes from the five films that will be nominated for Best Picture Oscars At first I will scan IMDb com to see what films will be released and start making my list We only show films that are eligible for an Academy Award nomination which means that it must show in a public venue in Los Angeles County for at least one week during the calendar year From there I will look to see what films our FIDM graduates might have opening and then what films are opening from costume designers we have shown in the past As far as picking specific costumes it s very unusual for me to be able to say I d like this costume and be able to get it We usually get what the lender

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/04/who-plans-the-annual-art-of-motion-picture-costume-design-exhibition.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Embroidered cotton lawn dress, c. 1923
    new look during the teens and twenties During these decades they were stylized into flat geometric roundels like those seen on the dress above Artist Paul Iribe is credited with developing this modern Art Deco version of the rose which was used frequently by Paul Poiret Poiret s 1913 dress for Denise Poiret La Rose d Iribe features a stemmed variation with the name of the dress indicating the origin of the stylized rose This new rose became a decorative staple appearing in a variety of colors and contexts The pink and purple color palette seen on this dress was discussed by Vogue in 1925 Floral colors were gaining favor with rumor predict ing popularity for new members of the mauve cyclamen and violine families 1 Here the soft pink lawn ground provides the perfect foil for colorful embroidered flowers and foliage 1 Vogue 15 Feb 1925 46 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post I remember reading that the flat rose which was so popular during the era was pioneered and attributed to Charles Rennie Mackintosh Is this not so Posted by Eileen April 12 2014 at 04 26 AM Charles Rennie Mackintosh did indeed create a stylized rose motif Mackintosh s most influential work was completed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries during the Art Nouveau period In the 1920s the stylized rose was typically more closely associated with Paul Iribe and Art Deco design Iribe a multi talented artist created a number of textile patterns featuring his stylized rose Whether or not Iribe was influenced by Mackintosh is another question entirely While Iribe was surely familiar with Mackintosh s work it will take more research to determine the links between their respective

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/04/embroidered-cotton-lawn-dress-c-1923.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: From the Archives: Vivienne Westwood suit
    Yet Westwood s designs were still infused with a quirky and challenging sensibility Her Anglomania collection from 1993 was a standout demonstrating a sophisticated merging of her punk sensibilities with her more conservative interests In a review of the Anglomania runway show New York Times fashion critic Bernadine Morris credited Westwood with a divine lunacy and called the collection lovable and slightly batty 1 Jacket detail 2004 5 61A C Given that Westwood s early career was rooted in an anti establishment position this two piece suit almost seems like a rejection of her early interests Crisp and precise it is a definite tribute to the traditions of British tailoring known as the best in the world With the plaid perfectly matched at all seams the jacket appears to have been made from a single seamless piece of fabric The minikilt skirt is extremely short and though the suit is clearly intended for a woman it includes a necktie an accessory that is still associated primarily with men The orb logo seen at the tip of the tie is both Westwood s logo and a reference to Harris Tweed a historic Scottish wool mill Jacket detail 2004 5 61A C Despite its fine construction and somewhat conservative tartan there is something cheeky about the look of this suit that suggests Westwood s punk origins Plaid was a popular pattern among devotees of punk fashion and though this particular tartan was commissioned by Westwood for use in her Anglomania collection its usage is a nod to punk Outfits from this collection were paired with exaggerated brilliantly colored platform shoes which caused model Naomi Campbell to fall during the runway presentation The shoes were miles away from the sturdy sensible shoes associated with both suits and tartan This combination of multiple and

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/04/from-the-archives-vivienne-westwood-suit.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Hollywood Behind the Scenes: Exhibition Post-Production
    Cruise s character Jack in Oblivion features a futuristic motorcycle style jacket Zipped or unzipped Reference images designer feedback and the realities of a large chest mannequin led to the decision to leave it unzipped Loan courtesy of NBC Universal Studios One of the most common questions I am asked during the Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition is Is insert name of famous actor really that short tall thin large Our visitors are always fascinated by costumes because of their close relationship to the body since clothing is something we can all relate to It s part of our everyday existence By seeing the costumes worn by an actor for his role in a film the actor becomes a little more real to the visitor It is important to keep in mind that the costume is made for the character first and foremost to the specifications needed by the actor So yes in most cases the actor is that short tall thin large In a small number of cases the mannequin that will fit the costume in all other measurements may be in fact a few inches too tall a common problem with the fashion mannequins we have in our stock Keira Knightley s costumes for Anna Karenina designed by Jacqueline Durran are typical of the actress small frame We use a pre teen sized mannequin and raise her to the correct height with a small platform Thank goodness for long skirts Loan courtesy of NBC Universal Studios The gallery design and mannequin placement is a collaborative process with the Gallery Director Museum Coordinator and curatorial staff There is a long list of variables we have to consider for placement including traffic flow visibility character and plot as well as visual harmony The gallery was divided into a two theme two room layout for this year s exhibition Sci Fi Fantasy and Period films Based on this general layout we place the mannequins on the platforms in their estimated locations Some were moved and rearranged for instance the costumes for 42 designed by Caroline Harris Since the film title is based on the number of Jackie Robinson s jersey we wanted the 42 to appear prominently in the gallery However it was strange to have his back to the audience We discussed and experimented with several arrangements until one clicked the Dodger s uniform worn by Chadwick Boseman was placed at the end of a platform extension allowing it to be seen from front back and the side Costumes from 42 designed by Caroline Harris Loan courtesy of Legendary Films The 42 Dodger s uniform is at center of this gallery view The 42 on the back of the jersey can be seen as the visitor walks from the Sci Fi Fantasy gallery into the Period section After the installation is complete I do the necessary insurance paperwork and organize my binder to be put aside until we begin de install We all attend the opening gala which

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2014/04/hollywood-behind-the-scenes-exhibition-post-production.html (2016-02-12)
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