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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Duvelleroy fan-bag, 1890s
    or pull out a closed fan without opening the drawstrings or removing the bag from her wrist As with other fashion accessories fans offered women an opportunity to display discerning taste personal style and financial status Folding fans were available at all price points from delicate one of a kind masterpieces to inexpensive paper fans imported from Japan The most desirable fans were produced in France with Duvelleroy as the leading maison In December 1895 Vogue noted that diamond covered fans cost up to 400 while charming and graceful painted Spanish fans could be had for as little as 5 1 As a hobby some women painted their own fan designs blank paper fans were sold specifically for this purpose Fans also had unique communicative properties Held in the hand a fan intensified every gesture In an era when women were bound by strict ideas regarding personal decorum fans could help entice or discourage potential suitors At public gatherings fans could be used to shield oneself from a too persistent gaze or to shelter the whisper of a bending escort 2 The London branch of Duvelleroy reinforced the notion of fan communication by including printed instructions in The Language of the Fan with each fan sold 3 Duvelleroy wasn t alone in promoting this language numerous versions of The Language of the Fan were in circulation during the nineteenth century Though the exact meaning of these gestures may have escaped the recipient their codification reinforces the notion that fans were used to facilitate romantic communication A contemporary version of Duvelleroy s fan language can be found here 1 Seen in the Shops Evening Toilette Accessories Vogue Dec 5 1895 394 2 Her Point of View New York Times Dec 7 1890 12 3 Beaujot Ariel Victorian Fashion Accessories London Berg

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/12/duvelleroy-fan-bag-1890s.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Friday Wrap: Reading & Watching
    bells the Ting a Ling perfume bottle is one of the most charming and festive bottles in our extensive collection of Parfums Lucien Lelong packaging and ephemera Though designed to hold two fragrances this bottle probably a prototype is empty With its tiny bells and green gold packaging Ting a Ling was intended for holiday gift giving A 1949 advertisement suggested Wise men will bring gifts by Lucien Lelong including Ting a Ling perfume heralded by tiny sleigh bells 1 If you ve followed our blog over the last several years you ll know that dress historian collector and dealer Doris Langley Moore has always fascinated Associate Curator Christina Johnson Last year Christina presented research on Doris Langley Moore at the Costume Colloquium conference in Florence Italy In 1957 Moore created Men Women and Clothes a multi part series on this history of fashion for the BBC The first BBC series filmed in color it is worth watching for its footage of wonderful historic garments on live models Though this is no longer considered a reputable way to display and study historic dress it s fascinating to see the garments in motion You ll find Men Women and Clothes How Fashions Come and Go Parts One Two here 1 I Magnin Advertisement Los Angeles Times Dec 18 1949 5 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post I really appreciated this post I hate viewing museum exhibits when people are snapping everything they see It is annoying and frankly rude to other patrons Most museum gift shops offer professional booklets or post cards the show items at their best In addition the revenue supports the continuing operation of the institution Posted by S Breshears December 31 2013 at

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/12/friday-wrap-reading-watching.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Hanae Mori jumpsuit, late 1960s
    in extraordinary printed silks most of which she designed herself 1 Fashion critics noted her sophisticated modern combinations of Japanese elements obi belts Japanese style prints with Western garment forms Later Mori designs would include evening gowns patterned with Japanese calligraphy stylized kimono evening gowns of embroidered satin and dresses with the long furi sode swinging sleeves usually featured in young women s kimono This successful merging of Eastern and Western clothing traditions was a hallmark of Mori s aesthetic Unlike the Japanese designers who rose to fame in the 1980s Hanae Mori had no interest in challenging the fashion establishment She worked within the traditions of Western fashion with a particular interest in the detailed labor intensive work of the haute couture In 1977 Mori became the first Japanese member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne the organization that regulates the haute couture industry In 2004 Hanae Mori presented her last haute couture collection The psychedelic pattern of this Hanae Mori jumpsuit perfectly suits the late 1960s mood Bright swirling colors coalesce into a pattern of fluttering butterflies and flower eyed women Butterflies were a signature motif for Mori appearing frequently in her designs This jumpsuit is formed with layers of patterned chiffon slightly offset to create additional depth and texture These same layers mask the wide palazzo style legs of the jumpsuit In the image below the slight offset of the bodice layers creates a psychedelic blurring of the polka dot pattern Layer the matching wrap over this jumpsuit and the vivid pattern would become a swirl of indecipherable images and colors 2012 40 9AB bodice detail 1 Bender Marilyn Western Style Clothes Are Designed in Japan New York Times Jan 7 1965 35 2 Ibid Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/12/hanae-mori-jumpsuit-late-1960s.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Oscar de la Renta fur and suede jacket, c. 1981
    the early 1980s de la Renta designed a variety of short loose fitting jackets with embroidered decorations Vogue featured several of these jackets in 1981 a cardigan style jacket of icy blue suede decorated with silver embroidery a camel suede jacket with bright white passementerie and a fitted plum velvet jacket with multicolored floral embroidery Like the twining embroidery seen on this maroon suede jacket the embellishment seemed drawn from another place perhaps the art and architecture of the Middle East or India This interest in non western themes frequently recurs in de la Renta s work 97 291 5 back view As a designer de la Renta eschews minimalism swathing women in luxurious garments with a feminine romantic feeling As described by a Vogue article in 1982 Oscar is romantic Not only does he look and project romantic he also delivers romantic clothes for romantic women on both sides of the Atlantic 1 Evening wear is a particular specialty in the early 1980s de la Renta s evening sensibility was defined by full skirts exaggerated sleeves and heavy embellishment including embroidery passementerie and beading With its puffed shoulders slightly box fit and opulent trim this jacket could almost be mistaken for a Victorian era jacket Despite differences in silhouette it shares a mood with this 1870s dolman from our collection 97 291 5 back view 1 Dorsey Hebe Fashion The Romance of Being Oscar Too Good to Be True Vogue May 1 1982 263 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments are

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/12/oscar-de-la-renta-fur-and-suede-jacket-c-1981.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: December 2013
    mood of 1970s fashion Instead of tailored business suits Relax offered a variety of casual clothing options In the late 1970s sporty casual jackets wide collared button up shirts and pleated baggy pants were part of the Relax look In 1979 Bill Cunningham yes the same Bill Cunningham of street photography fame described a model in the Pierre Cardin Relax runway show as looking like he just fell off a

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/12/page/2/ (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: From the Archives: Aprons
    and colorful aprons were worn when receiving guests or serving food Thus decorative aprons became a public display of a competent and dedicated homemaker Even today an image of a woman or man wearing an apron is intended to convey domestic prowess The distinction between plain and colored aprons was particularly important in the late 19th century when many households began to hire servants In order to provide visual differentiation between hired hands and the lady of the house household maids always wore white aprons when interacting with visitors In early 20th century pattern books and kitchen manuals white full aprons are usually labeled maid s aprons while those made of patterned fabric are designated fancy aprons Though fancy aprons were not strictly necessary it was suggested that no woman s wardrobe was complete without a fancy apron to spruce up her everyday dress Fancy apron 1895 1905 Gift of Ms Judy Thomsen 2004 823 3 Though readymade aprons were widely available fancy aprons were often made out of fabric leftover from other projects This frugality served the dual purposes of saving money and demonstrating sewing ability This pink and black apron was possibly made from a scarf or other large panel of fabric note the distinct border visible at the hem This same border print also appears in the shoulder straps and waistband Made from lightweight printed cotton this apron features a dense allover print resembling those found on woven wool paisley shawls a popular accessory through the 1860s Printed imitations of the paisley shawls were widely available When the paisley shawl went out of fashion a frugal woman perhaps used her inexpensive printed version to create the fancy apron seen here Back view of 2004 823 3 The full skirt of this fancy apron can be tied in

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/11/from-the-archives-aprons.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Jacques Fath, Spring/Summer 1953
    in 1940 or 1941 Upon his release Fath and his wife Genevieve former secretary to Coco Chanel reopened Fath s eponymous house Like many Parisian couturiers Fath worked throughout World War II producing haute couture for Parisian women His wartime clientele were reportedly youthful and elegant with no need to cling to the traditions of the past 3 After the war Fath moved quickly to establish an American clientele In 1948 Fath and his wife toured the United States Publicity for the tour included details of Genevieve s extensive Jacques Fath travel wardrobe Consisting of 35 ensembles and appropriate accessories it was persuasive proof of Fath s talent During this visit Fath cemented his business relationship with US clothing manufacturer Joseph Halpert Under the terms of their agreement Fath began designing two annual collections about 40 designs total for mass market production and distribution throughout the United States At home Fath was a noted host throwing lavish parties at his home outside of Paris With 40 rooms Fath s roomy chateau accommodated both intimate cocktail parties and large formal balls Jacques and Genevieve were frequent hosts entertaining several times each month Guest lists were a social and economic jumble including cafe society celebrities and aristocrats Accordingly their annual champagne bill was astronomical 3 000 in 1949 4 By the early 1950s Fath s reputation was secure During the years 1950 53 Fath opened a Paris boutique introduced two new perfumes and launched Jacques Fath Université a high end ready to wear label He also continued to produce haute couture If not for his death from leukemia in 1954 Fath s renown would have continued on its positive trajectory After her husband s death Genevieve assumed leadership of the house continuing operations until 1957 1 Savignon Jéromine Jacques Fath New York

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/11/jacques-fath-spring-summer-1953.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: BOLD, BEAUTIFUL AND DAMNED: A Retrospective of 80s Fashion Illustrations from Tony Viramontes
    of the 80s like no other Although he died prematurely of AIDS at the age of 31 in 1988 he left behind a vast treasure trove that included fashion portraits album covers and mixed media BOLD BEAUTIFUL AND DAMNED an intimate installation in the FIDM Museum foyer showcases original fashion illustrations by Viramontes Reflecting the high octane club scene of the 80s the art of Vira as his friends called him pulsated with New Wave energy He was inspired by particular people and he imbued their portraits with real personality Model Janice Dickenson remembers He drew people not models as coat hangers Valentino loved him as did Gaultier and Hanae Mori He worked with some of the most celebrated names in fashion Yves Saint Laurent Christian Dior Versace Givenchy Halston Karl Lagerfeld Emmanuel Ungaro Perry Ellis Pierre Cardin Issey Miyake and Claude Montana He drew Paloma Picasso Isabella Rossellini Rene Russo Naomi Campbell and he created sensational album covers for Janet Jackson and Arcadia BOLD BEAUTIFUL AND DAMNED will be on view at the FIDM Museum from November 14 December 21 2013 The installation is open to the public Tuesday Saturday 10 am 5 pm The FIDM Museum is located at 919 S Grand Avenue Los Angeles CA 90015 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments are moderated and will not appear until approved by the author Post another comment The letters and numbers you entered did not match the image Please try again As a final step before posting your comment enter

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/11/bold-beautiful-and-damned-a-retrospective-of-80s-fashion-illustrations-from-tony-viramontes.html (2016-02-12)
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