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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Out & About: Visiting the Maryhill Museum of Art
    milliners shoemakers jewelers hairdressers and artists were recruited to create the dolls and design fanciful backdrops Everyone involved in the project donated their time and the materials used to create the more than 200 dolls and 15 backdrops of the Théâtre de la Mode Metallic leather shoes by an unidentified maker For scale the shoes are about 2 inches tall The Théâtre de la Mode was first displayed in March 1945 at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris After their Paris debut the dolls of the Théâtre de la Mode began a world tour including stops in Barcelona London Vienna Stockholm and Copenhagen In 1946 the world travelers arrived in New York to great fanfare After two months in New York the Théâtre de la Mode traveled to San Francisco for an exhibit at the de Young Museum Black and white ensemble by Jean Desses and a tan wool day dress by Agnes Drecoll After the de Young exhibit the dolls were stored at San Francisco s City of Paris department store This was the home of the Théâtre de la Mode until 1952 when a strange twist of fate brought them to the Maryhill Museum of Art By 1952 the dolls were no longer needed to promote haute couture Christian Dior s New Look had brought all eyes back to Paris fashion and the industry was revived Rather than destroying the dolls San Francisco socialite and museum patron Alma Spreckels brokered a deal wherein the Théâtre de la Mode were donated to the Maryhill Museum of Art a museum founded by her friend Sam Hill L to R Striped dinner dress by Agnes Drecoll evening coat by O Rossen Hermès at home gown seated Like O Rossen many of the couturiers who participated in the Théâtre de la Mode are now largely forgotten The dolls remained at Maryhill until the late 1980s when they were sent back to Paris for restoration and a 1990 exhibition Since their re discovery the dolls of the Théâtre de la Mode are sometimes seen in exhibitions but they reside primarily at the Maryhill Museum of Art If you re ever in the area Maryhill is definitely worth a visit In addition to the Théâtre de la Mode the museum owns an eclectic collection of objects including objects associated with Queen Marie of Romania 1875 1938 Rodin sculptures Native American artifacts and a collection of chess sets And as you can see from this last photo Maryhill s rural setting is gorgeous Photos by Karl Baisch Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post If this isn t one of the most unexpected and fascinating collections I ve seen I don t know what is Posted by Ana April 13 2013 at 03 23 PM It really is a treasure If you can t make it to the Maryhill you might enjoy the book Théâtre de la Mode Fashion Dolls The

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/04/out-about-visiting-the-maryhill-museum-of-art.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Fashion Birthday: Vivienne Westwood
    Westwood Museum Purchase 2003 5 12 2004 5 1 Vivienne Westwood mines museum collections for inspiration deconstructing historical themes to generate modern designs Like its eighteenth century ancestor this corset features internal boning wide shoulder strops and a stomacher at center front However while Ancien Régime corsets were rigid tightly laced constructions of linen boned with baleen or reeds the most luxurious examples covered in silk brocade Westwood s version is made of synthetic stretch lame flexible plastic boning and fastens with a zipper Nevertheless it creates the same swelling bosom popular 250 years ago Instead of covering the front of the corset with an historically correct ribbon trimmed triangular panel a silkscreened copy of the 1743 painting Daphnis et Chloé by François Boucher 1703 1770 reinforces the Louis XV theme The flamboyant wool twill hot pants paired with this corset also contain ironic historical allusions though they reference a different time period and gender Elizabethan men wore full bottomed breeches with form fitting doublets that were as stiff as corsets The baggy cut of their breeches facilitated horseback riding and showed off a great deal of expensive material This tasseled and faux fur trimmed female version of sixteenth century male garb demonstrates Westwood s time and gender bending approach to contemporary design at its best Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post The top is great As for the bottom you should not have stolen those curtains from that funeral home Posted by Zed Power May 27 2013 at 12 16 PM Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/04/fashion-birthday-vivienne-westwood.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Unpack fashion history with FIDM Museum's Fashion Council
    about the fashion and fashion history of the twentieth century If your class club or professional organization is located in Southern California schedule a presentation of A History of Women s Fashion The Twentieth Century Brought to you by FIDM Museum s Fashion Council this lively and informative illustrated lecture will provide insight into key moments in twentieth century fashion Participants will experience hands on learning with selected objects from the FIDM Museum Study Collection Interested in learning more about this opportunity Email Linda Plochocki Chair of Fashion Council s Outreach Committee at fashioncouncil fidmmuseum org Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Verify your Comment Previewing your Comment Posted by This is only a preview Your comment has not yet been posted Your comment could not be posted Error type Your comment has been saved Comments are moderated and will not appear until approved by the author Post another comment The letters and numbers you entered did not match the image Please try again As a final step before posting your comment enter the letters and numbers you see in the image below This prevents automated

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/04/unpack-fashion-history-with-fidm-museums-fashion-council.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Sarah Elizabeth Craft’s Easter bonnet, 1852
    attainable This colorful silk bonnet was purchased for an 11 year old girl in 1852 Sadly it was never worn 2009 5 73A The intended owner of this bonnet was Sarah Elizabeth Craft 1841 1852 who lived in Ireland Parish now Holyoke Massachusetts Purchased as a Christmas present to be worn the following spring for Easter services the gift was never opened as Sarah died on the twentieth of December After her death Sarah s cherished possessions her dolls needlework and letters as well as this bonnet with its original bandbox were packed into a small wooden trunk and placed in an attic where they stayed until their discovery more than a century later Sarah s bonnet is unusual not only for its striking appearance but because its provenance is fully documented The bold color combination of sky blue and lemon yellow reveal that not all Victorian era fashions were subdued or that intensely bright hues were only available after the invention of synthetic dye in 1856 Because it was protected from dust light and other contaminates the bonnet is in excellent condition with its original embellishment and bright color intact The original bandbox wrapped in period wallpaper is also in remarkable condition 2009 5 73B C 1 The Easter Dress Parade Harper s Bazar 19 April 1890 290 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Dear Rachel Even though Sarah Elizabeth passed away so tragically and so young she still lives on because her story is still being told The bonnet is so vivacious and bright and all the more beautiful for having survived so long to bring smiles once again to the faces of all who behold it Thank you for continuing to share these

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/03/sarah-elizabeth-crafts-easter-bonnet-1852.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Norma Kamali fringe suit, 1986
    covetable garments In 1968 she and her then husband opened a New York boutique stocked with Kamali s European finds Soon she began designing and making her own garments which also retailed in the shop Kamali s earliest designs included colorful jersey dresses and garments made from snakeskin and feathers 2012 1142 71B detail In 1978 after Kamali and her husband divorced she struck out on her own The name of this new venture OMO On My Own reflected Kamali s newly independent stance This transition marked the beginning of Kamali s most fruitful decade the 1980s Her business expanded and she was awarded several fashion industry honors including three Coty Awards and one CFDA award Currently Kamali retails versions of her classic designs including several fringe embellished dresses via her website Never bland Kamali s interest in dressed up sportswear had a strong influence on late 20th century fashion Her contributions include the sleeping bag coat athletic inspired ready to wear and the broad shouldered 1980s silhouette Her swimsuits which often had a retro flair were also notable Developed by Kamali in 1975 the puffy down filled sleeping bag coat is now a winter wardrobe staple In 1980 Kamali introduced a line of day and evening wear made from sweatshirt fleece ushering in the 1980s craze for athletic inspired ready to wear Kamali s garments often used shoulder pads to create a strong shoulder this silhouette was extremely popular during the 1980s Though it was widely influential Kamali s use of shoulder pads was a response to her own body type You see I have small shoulders So one day I decided I would add shoulder pads to my line It makes you look a little taller your hips a little smaller 1 2012 1142 71AB 1 Duka John

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/03/norma-kamali-fringe-suit-1986.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Green in fashion
    green silk bonnet from the late 19th century Want to see another emerald garment from our collection Revisit our post on James Galanos vivid 1950s cocktail dress Kate Greenaway bonnet c 1880 89 Museum Purchase 2004 5 11 Kate Greenaway 1846 1901 was a British watercolorist and children s author known for her illustrations of women and children wearing quaint old fashioned clothing Greenaway s illustrations were nostalgic referencing an imagined pastoral past and an idealized childhood Mothers and daughters wear stylized 18th century hooped gowns or high waisted Empire dresses tied with broad sashes and accessorized with poke bonnets Boys wear one piece skeleton suits and flat pork pie hats Her characters inhabit an idyllic world of childhood and are often shown frolicking in the countryside or having tea parties This emerald green bonnet is similar to one Kate Greenaway featured in Under the Window Pictures and Rhymes for Children 1878 Greenaway was both prolific and influential During her career she wrote and illustrated more than 50 books for children including works of literature poetry almanacs and calendars Greenaway s illustrations of historicized garments were so popular that attempts were made to translate them from the page to reality Liberty the London department store associated with the Aesthetic dress movement began manufacturing a line of children s clothing inspired by Kate Greenaway s illustrations These Greenaway inspired garments aligned with Liberty s aesthetic which was also based on historicism They offered children and their parents an opportunity to inhabit the gentle world portrayed in the author s many books To get a better sense of Kate Greenaway s illustration style peruse a selection of her books here 2004 5 11 1 http www pantone com pages index aspx pg 21055 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/03/green-in-fashion.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: James Galanos cocktail dress, c. 1955
    decided to start his own business opening Galanos Originals in 1951 From the beginning Galanos concentrated on a vision of refined elegance sophistication and quality based on the components of fabric color and proportion 3 Galanos carefully finished garments were widely considered an American alternative to French haute couture Though his designs were technically ready to wear each garment was created individually by hand on a mannequin not from a standard pattern Galanos personally supervised his workrooms which were staffed by workers trained in European ateliers or Hollywood costume shops Fabric was an important component of Galanos aesthetic and a starting point for his designs Though he sketched often Galanos believed that the actual gown materialized once you start fitting the fabric on the body 4 The luxurious fabrics used by Galanos were purchased on regular buying trips to Europe His most elaborate evening gowns often featured beading or sequins particularly those produced in the 1980s S2007 894 1A C This c 1955 emerald green silk satin cocktail dress reflects both Galanos design interests and the mood of the 1950s A high neckline Peter Pan collar and bow belt create an impression of demure femininity while the covered buttons and self fabric bias binding at collar and sleeve demonstrate an interest in elegant details Full skirts were popular in the early 1950s but Galanos used his own meticulous technique to control the fullness of the dress seen here To create a full skirt and a controlled hip Galanos sewed the pleats both at the outer edge and on the diagonal The weight of the skirt is supported by a matching petticoat Though the petticoat could just as easily have been plain and utilitarian its luxurious finish hints at Galanos connection to the practices of haute couture When combined with small

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2010/07/james-galanos-cocktail-dress-c-1955.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Friday Wrap
    on the life and style of Marlene Dietrich Please note this event will be held at the Bowers Museum not at the FIDM Museum For location and ticket information visit the Bowers Museum website Fowler OutSpoken Lecture Fringe Concepts Fowler Museum at UCLA Saturday June 1 2013 2 pm Free lecture Kevin Jones FIDM Museum Curator will trace the evolution of fringe in dress from ancient times through modern and contemporary high fashion Please note this event will be held at the Fowler Museum not at the FIDM Museum For location information visit the Fowler Museum website Versailles 73 and Fashion TV Versailles 73 American Runway Revolution isn t in wide release yet but it has been playing at select theatres around the country for the last several months Have you seen it yet It s a documentary focusing on a 1973 fashion show pitting five distinguished French haute couture designers Givenchy Dior Ungaro Saint Laurent and Cardin against five North American fashion upstarts Halston Oscar de la Renta Anne Klein Stephen Burrows and Bill Blass We re looking forward to watching this not only for the great early 70s hair and fashion but to learn more about this moment in fashion history Watch the trailer here Not one but two fashion themed reality shows premiered this week L A Frock Stars spotlights vintage boutique The Way We Wore and Dukes of Melrose features Decades another L A based vintage boutique We posted a link to L A Frock Stars on our Facebook page earlier this week inspiring strong reactions from our followers Watch the first episode of L A Frock Stars here and the first episode of Dukes of Melrose here Let us know what you think after you ve compared and contrasted these two shows Snapshot of Marlene

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2013/03/friday-wrap.html (2016-02-12)
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