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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Adrian Ltd.
    II Adrian s collections were considered wearable and practical yet stylish and flattering Individual garments were always given witty topical names and showcased the inherent qualities of the chosen fabric Drapeable jersey was used for slinky evening gowns and sensible woolens were used to create suits with interesting details such as mitered stripes and geometric appliques Wartime restrictions on fabric usage and ornamentation meant that Adrian like all American designers had to be inventive with his detailing With the end of World War II era fabric rationing Adrian was free to create evening gowns that incorporated multiple yards of fabric Though Adrian s day fashions tended to showcase clean lines and surprising details Adrian s evening gowns were often quite dramatic offering a touch of glamour that hearkened back to his days as a costume designer Taffeta was a favorite fabric as its inherent stiffness lent itself to dramatic sculptural shaping as in the gown below Evening gown Adrian 1948 2006 883 1 Gift of Bob Diamond This gown incorporates elements typical of Adrian s evening gowns of the late 1940s Swagged iridescent taffeta creates a full skirt with draped effect and dramatic fabric panniers at each hip The back of the skirt features an asymmetrical train another favorite device Adrian repeated this 18th century influenced silhouette multiple times creating similar versions of this gown using different colors of taffeta and varying the bodice He designed a version for his wife Janet Gaynor which was called The Tigress and featured tiger striped taffeta Other evening gowns from this period feature taffeta wings jutting from hips and shoulders and voluminous skirts all with a sculptural feel Back view of 2006 883 1 Side view of 2006 883 1 Adrian s design career effectively ended in May 1952 when he suffered a heart attack during work on his fall collection Adrian s ability to span the gap between the silver screen and everyday life indicated a level of creative ability possessed by few designers and rather than entrust someone else with design duties Adrian decided to close his company Adrian and his wife moved to Brazil in 1954 returning to Los Angeles in 1958 when Adrian was asked to design costumes for a stage production On September 12 1959 Adrian passed away due to a cerebral hemorrhage 1 Pope Virginia Wide Range Seen in Style Designs New York Times 22 Sept 1948 37 2 Weaver Sylvia Designers Here Best on Earth Los Angeles Times 18 Feb 1942 B14 Esquevin Christian Adrian From Silver Screen to Custom Label New York Monacelli Press 2008 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post Adrian should of course be more broadly known for his own label and the place he had in American fashion during the war years and after But Adrian had been influencing international fashion since 1928 when his screen designs for Greta Garbo and Joan Crawford were seen all over the

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/08/adrian.html (2016-02-12)
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  • FIDM Museum Blog: Todd Oldham patchwork vest
    in runway shows Oldham populated his runway with off beat style icons like Kate Pierson of the B 52 s and drag performer Billy Beyond Oldham s fans and clients included Susan Sarandon Blaine Trump Quentin Crisp Queen Latifah and Ru Paul Oldham s designs were often labeled kitschy probably because of their tongue in cheek visual references Oldham s 1991 Garage Sale collection featured a suit embroidered with items often found at garage sales including silverware and a clock The Dating Game used images taken from tourist postcards as beaded embellishment on a suit jacket Oldham frequently incorporated handmade elements into his collections One collection featured hand crocheted skirts and sweaters and many of his designs featured buttons hand made by Oldham s brother Brad Patchwork was another favorite element used by Oldham to create skirts suits and the vest pictured here Despite a riot of clashing patterns and colors the tailored vest somehow forms a coherent whole The unusual buttons are an Oldham trademark 2005 5 9 Though Oldham closed his company in 1998 his creative explorations didn t end Since 1998 Oldham has designed a Florida hotel published several design oriented books produced a capsule collection for Target and published numerous articles and interviews In this early 90s segment from House of Style a patchwork clad Todd Oldham discusses his design process and then scours a New York City fleamarket for pieces of furniture to refurbish 1 Hochswender Woody With Nods to Rome the Renaissance and the 60 s The New York Times 7 Apr 1990 31 2 The Perry Ellis Award is now called the Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent 3 Schiro Anne Marie Loud Flamboyant It s Oldham s Way The New York Times 4 Nov 1993 C12 Posted by FIDM Museum Permalink Comments You

    Original URL path: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2012/09/todd-oldham-patchwork-vest.html (2016-02-12)
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