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  • Have Blue [dot org] » Rotary Phase Converter – Part 2
    the dividing head and tilting vises for the mill Here s a breakdown of what the system looks like right now A The unfinished control panel is a rather flimsy piece of sheet metal I ll need to stiffen it up before I mount it permanently On the left of the panel top of the photo are two indicator lamps one for the incoming 240VAC and one for the 120VAC from the transformer I know I could have run a neutral line from the breaker panel and gotten my 120VAC that way but this is how I decided to run things The center modules consist of a start button which has two contact sets one connects to the motor starter the other connects to the starter capacitors Ideally I d use another contactor for the starter caps but the pushbutton contacts are rated for 10 Amps and they should last a good long while a stop button and an indicator lamp The empty holes will contain the start and stop buttons and indicator lamp for the 7 5HP idler once I get it wired in The pushbuttons and lamps are from Surplus Center B Motor starter for the 10HP idler purchased from Igor Chudov C 200mF 370VAC run capacitors from Surplus Center Note that one lead on each is disconnected more on this later D Bank of ten 64mF 220VAC start capacitors also from Surplus Center E Step up Step Down Autotransformer from Jameco F Power distribution board consisting of a few terminal bars from the hardware store mounted on a piece of polycarbonate G Motor starter for the 7 5HP idler currently unused and it seems to smoke a bit when I power the coil I ve needed to get the lathe going in order to kick out some custom paintball gun parts for my friend Blue Fish so recently I fired up the RPC for some actual use Jim Hanrahan s guide seemed to indicate that there s simply no substitute for measuring volts amps of an RPC setup to dial in the system with regards to capacitance the 200uF run caps were simply a guess as to the needed value that and large run caps aren t easy to come by so I thought I d start on the high end With the beefy run caps in place I fired up the system to see what voltage and amperage I had on the 10HP idler without it powering any equipment Unloaded Amps Red 0 2 Blk 22 3 Wht 16 5 Unloaded Volts Red Blk 280 Red Wht 315 Blk Wht 233 Wow the voltage differences are pretty severe how do the values change when I m actually using the lathe Loaded lathe running at 600 RPM Amps Red 7 6 Blk 21 3 Wht 12 8 Loaded lathe running at 600 RPM Volts Red Blk 261 Red Wht 297 Blk Wht 234 Things look a little better when the system is actually in use rather than

    Original URL path: http://haveblue.org/?p=706 (2016-04-26)
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  • Have Blue [dot org] » I’m not dead yet.
    Phantom trigger frame While I generally point people in the direction of Ken at KPCS whenever I m asked about doing custom paintball gun work once in a while I ll take on a simple project if it interests me Ball end milling on a CCI frame This was nothing fancy but it was the first time I had actually tried it I wish I could say that I did everything on the fly by eye but I drew it up in SolidWorks first This actually was good as it allowed me to determine the best depth of cut on the area right behind the trigger and more importantly I was able to give the customer a screenshot of what it would look like before actually making chips 2 comments so far Add Your Comment Reply Ken W said 2012 03 19 17 19 Nice clean simple Very nice Now I can send them to you lol Reply Have Blue said 2012 03 22 11 59 Nice clean simple and completely stolen Was the same milling Lee did on his signature series guns and I shamelessly copied it Your Comment Change mind Click here to cancel Name Email URI My

    Original URL path: http://haveblue.org/?p=375 (2016-04-26)
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  • Have Blue [dot org] » Gregor would be proud
    at school was kind enough to create an eDrawings version of the assembly for me I ve used eDrawings created from SolidWorks many times and they work beautifully However the easm created from a trial copy of eDrawings for Solid Edge was abyssmal Missing parts galore including one of the steppers why it singled out a single stepper is beyond me they re all from the same part file Geometric Ltd seems to think that the software is worth 395 I suggest they revise that figure downwards by a few orders of magnitude I finally realized I d just have to re create the parts in SolidWorks Not a huge deal SolidWorks barfed a bit on importing the entire assembly of Mendel no issues with being from an academic version of Solid Edge take note Siemens as even competing products are doing better with your own files but opens the individual par files quite happily Like Shane I decided to start with the vertex pieces while he opted to use a sine bar in the vise to provide the right angle on the vertex pieces his use of a tooling ball which I had never heard of before and it took me a little while to figure out how they are used gave me an idea of how I could do all the machining without worrying about angles The trick is simply in relocating the hole that Shane was using for the tooling ball so that it runs in line with the two outside holes and using the same diameter for all 3 Then by using short 5 16 rods through 2 holes at a time I can accurately cut any of the faces I started with 3 pieces of scrap 3 4 aluminum plate and drilled six 5 16 holes though each at the coordinates that I had determined by a CAD sketch I then bandsawed the pieces in a chevron shape Then I ran two pins through the holes of what would be a leg on the part and clamped it in the mill vise In order to set the tool height I placed a parallel across the pins and brought the endmill down onto it then locked the quill after which I lowered the knee by the appropriate amount This allowed me to machine the convex side of each part The other piece clamped in the left of the vise is just there to even out the force on the vise not to have any machining done on it I actually had something always clamped on the left but removed it for most of these photos for clarity To machine the concave side as well as the end of each leg I needed to use an end stop Note that I started using 5 16 drill bits rather than the 5 16 pins of the previous photographs The stainless steel pins were a very tight fit I didn t have a 5 16 reamer on hand so

    Original URL path: http://haveblue.org/?p=304 (2016-04-26)
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  • Have Blue [dot org] » Machining
    tool junkie Category Machining Metalworking Tags no tag Add Comment 2009 07 26 Simple CNC Engraving Head Category CNC Machining Metalworking Tags no tag 3 comments 2009 07 26 The mother of all CNC programs Category CNC Machining Metalworking Tag CNC Taig threadmilling 2 comments Next Entries My other pages Air Soldier Products Tech Ratsnest Blagroll Bryan Cera Bunnie Huang Chuck s blag Flylogic Engineering Frankie Flood John Branlund s

    Original URL path: http://haveblue.org/?cat=14&paged=2 (2016-04-26)
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  • Have Blue [dot org] » Metalworking
    for molds Category CNC RC Aircraft Tags no tag 2 comments 2012 02 09 Hot stuff Category Metalworking Tags no tag Add Comment 2012 01 30 Stupid broaching tricks Category Machining Metalworking Tags no tag 4 comments 2011 12 13 Anno 2011 Category Metalworking Tags no tag Add Comment 2011 08 31 I made a Thingi Category 3D Printing CNC Tags no tag 4 comments 2011 08 23 Quick CNC

    Original URL path: http://haveblue.org/?cat=12&paged=2 (2016-04-26)
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  • Have Blue [dot org] » PIR foam for Stratasys build trays
    and sprays to improve part adhesion on his very large scratchbuilt 3D printer I gave him a Stratasys foam base to try and it worked like a champ almost too well since the ABS support doesn t break away nearly as easily as HIPS support I mentioned my woes in trying to source more of the foam and he suggested trying the foil sided polyisocyanurate PIR foam that you can find at some home improvement stores and gave me a few pieces to try I cut a 12 square peeled the foil from one side and sprayed the other side with 3M 77 adhesive before pressing it onto my material testing plate I put the tray into the machine and let it heat up before testing it Unfortunately I failed to take differential thermal expansion into consideration With the chamber heated to 70 C the foam expanded ever so slightly buckling upwards due to the foil still being attached on the underside I removed the foil from the underside and lacking anything better used a bunch of paperclips around the perimeter to secure the foam While the PIR foam surface isn t as smooth as the Stratasys bases it s good enough for my needs and a test print went fine The part and support removed from the PIR foam very easily with just a little tearing of the substrate Overall it s still not quite as good as the FR 7104 foam tears more easily and doesn t grip as well but for a cheap readily available material it s the best thing I ve found so far The only drawback is that locally available sheets are only 1 thick and I need 1 25 of thickness but shimming up the base from the bottom shouldn t be much of an issue 4 comments so far Add Your Comment Reply Atil said 2015 03 18 18 41 Hello Haveblue I coudnt find your Email adresse so Im writing in your comment section I did get a FDM 3000 modell but cant get it too run Hopefully you can help me out 1 After getting some NV Memory errors i did try to load the paramter file i got with the mashine but after that it doesnt even go to home anymore Do you have a paramter file for me 2 The second problem is that i cant get the Extduer to work When i push the load button the motors and gears dont move as if there is no power But the Head gets warm and both of the hotends heat up I cant get the filament to move into the head I would really appreciate your help Thank you very much in advance for everything Reply Ed Langenderfer said 2015 06 30 22 29 Hi HaveBlue I also have an FDM 1600 I ve built many parts on it however it has stopped all head movement Would you be able to help or advise me Would you respond

    Original URL path: http://haveblue.org/?p=1913&replytocom=1179700 (2016-04-26)
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  • Have Blue [dot org] » PIR foam for Stratasys build trays
    sprays to improve part adhesion on his very large scratchbuilt 3D printer I gave him a Stratasys foam base to try and it worked like a champ almost too well since the ABS support doesn t break away nearly as easily as HIPS support I mentioned my woes in trying to source more of the foam and he suggested trying the foil sided polyisocyanurate PIR foam that you can find at some home improvement stores and gave me a few pieces to try I cut a 12 square peeled the foil from one side and sprayed the other side with 3M 77 adhesive before pressing it onto my material testing plate I put the tray into the machine and let it heat up before testing it Unfortunately I failed to take differential thermal expansion into consideration With the chamber heated to 70 C the foam expanded ever so slightly buckling upwards due to the foil still being attached on the underside I removed the foil from the underside and lacking anything better used a bunch of paperclips around the perimeter to secure the foam While the PIR foam surface isn t as smooth as the Stratasys bases it s good enough for my needs and a test print went fine The part and support removed from the PIR foam very easily with just a little tearing of the substrate Overall it s still not quite as good as the FR 7104 foam tears more easily and doesn t grip as well but for a cheap readily available material it s the best thing I ve found so far The only drawback is that locally available sheets are only 1 thick and I need 1 25 of thickness but shimming up the base from the bottom shouldn t be much of an issue 4 comments so far Add Your Comment Reply Atil said 2015 03 18 18 41 Hello Haveblue I coudnt find your Email adresse so Im writing in your comment section I did get a FDM 3000 modell but cant get it too run Hopefully you can help me out 1 After getting some NV Memory errors i did try to load the paramter file i got with the mashine but after that it doesnt even go to home anymore Do you have a paramter file for me 2 The second problem is that i cant get the Extduer to work When i push the load button the motors and gears dont move as if there is no power But the Head gets warm and both of the hotends heat up I cant get the filament to move into the head I would really appreciate your help Thank you very much in advance for everything Reply Ed Langenderfer said 2015 06 30 22 29 Hi HaveBlue I also have an FDM 1600 I ve built many parts on it however it has stopped all head movement Would you be able to help or advise me Would you respond to

    Original URL path: http://haveblue.org/?p=1913&replytocom=1248855 (2016-04-26)
    Open archived version from archive

  • Have Blue [dot org] » PIR foam for Stratasys build trays
    and sprays to improve part adhesion on his very large scratchbuilt 3D printer I gave him a Stratasys foam base to try and it worked like a champ almost too well since the ABS support doesn t break away nearly as easily as HIPS support I mentioned my woes in trying to source more of the foam and he suggested trying the foil sided polyisocyanurate PIR foam that you can find at some home improvement stores and gave me a few pieces to try I cut a 12 square peeled the foil from one side and sprayed the other side with 3M 77 adhesive before pressing it onto my material testing plate I put the tray into the machine and let it heat up before testing it Unfortunately I failed to take differential thermal expansion into consideration With the chamber heated to 70 C the foam expanded ever so slightly buckling upwards due to the foil still being attached on the underside I removed the foil from the underside and lacking anything better used a bunch of paperclips around the perimeter to secure the foam While the PIR foam surface isn t as smooth as the Stratasys bases it s good enough for my needs and a test print went fine The part and support removed from the PIR foam very easily with just a little tearing of the substrate Overall it s still not quite as good as the FR 7104 foam tears more easily and doesn t grip as well but for a cheap readily available material it s the best thing I ve found so far The only drawback is that locally available sheets are only 1 thick and I need 1 25 of thickness but shimming up the base from the bottom shouldn t be much of an issue 4 comments so far Add Your Comment Reply Atil said 2015 03 18 18 41 Hello Haveblue I coudnt find your Email adresse so Im writing in your comment section I did get a FDM 3000 modell but cant get it too run Hopefully you can help me out 1 After getting some NV Memory errors i did try to load the paramter file i got with the mashine but after that it doesnt even go to home anymore Do you have a paramter file for me 2 The second problem is that i cant get the Extduer to work When i push the load button the motors and gears dont move as if there is no power But the Head gets warm and both of the hotends heat up I cant get the filament to move into the head I would really appreciate your help Thank you very much in advance for everything Reply Ed Langenderfer said 2015 06 30 22 29 Hi HaveBlue I also have an FDM 1600 I ve built many parts on it however it has stopped all head movement Would you be able to help or advise me Would you respond

    Original URL path: http://haveblue.org/?p=1913&replytocom=1349173 (2016-04-26)
    Open archived version from archive



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