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  • The Makeup Museum: Books
    end I know I ve added several books to my wishlist Posted at 10 02 AM in Books Permalink Comments 0 July 11 2015 Book review Read My Lips A Cultural History of Lipstick Here s a nice little addition to your makeup library Read My Lips A Cultural History of Lipstick 1998 explores the cultural significance of the world s most popular cosmetics product I was initially a bit concerned I wouldn t finish the book based on the rather clichéd over the top introduction which was written by a different author than the rest of the book Just try this test At the end of a meal in a restaurant absentmindedly reach for your lipstick uncap it with a quick nudge twist the wand out of its cartridge and stare at it briefly You d think you pulled a gun All eyes are on you Sigh wistfully and look up How so much drama can be contained in such a small gesture I don t know But there you have it This paragraph made me roll my eyes so hard they almost got stuck in my head Reapplication isn t THAT attention getting or rather it shouldn t be no one is looking at you and if they are they re probably thinking you re rather gauche for making a touch up so dramatic Just do a quick discreet swipe and be done with it Anyway despite this blather I kept reading To my great relief I found the actual content of the chapters far less insipid than the introduction Chapter 1 gives a brief history of lipstick spanning from ancient Egypt to today Snapshots of lipstick trends in each decade in the 20th century are provided as well Hardly any of the content was new information for me but a concise overview on hand is always useful One of the more notable facts for me as I believe there s a significant connection between fashion and makeup was the author s assertion that lipstick started being swayed by fashion trends in the 50s Lipstick also began to take its cue from fashion cosmetics companies looked to fashion designers to predict the shades of the moment This trend was strongly encouraged by Vogue which would introduce a color for the season and then persuade cosmetics manufacturers to supply complementary shades In terms of helping shape a beauty museum it s quite helpful to know when the important relationship between makeup and fashion started Chapter 2 is a primer on the nitty gritty of lipstick basic ingredients production shapes and textures One thing I wasn t aware of previously is that the various shapes of lipstick bullets actually have names The kind that s angled on both side of the tip is known as a fishtail while the pointed tip angled on one side is a teardrop A more rounded tip angled on one side is a wedge I knew about lip gloss applicator names doefoot etc but had no idea that lipstick bullets had them as well This chapter also includes a few pages on the harmful ingredients initially used in lipsticks and how they weren t banned until the government thought it might affect men no surprise there It wasn t until 1924 when the New York Board of Health considered banning lipstick not ironically because of the harm it might cause the women who wore it but out of fear that it might poison the men who kissed the women who wore it that the government finally stepped in Lovely Chapter 3 was probably my favorite since it talks about the rise of lipstick advertising including celebrity endorsements brands launched by makeup artists and cosmetic companies charitable efforts Chapter 3 was also my favorite since it included a few pages on shade names which is a topic I will hopefully cover in a few weeks I drafted the post over 2 years ago and just keep adding to it Jean Ford one of the founders of the ever amusing brand Benefit explains the inspiration behind two shades named Indecent Exposure and But Officer I had just gotten out of traffic school so the line was all about things you could get arrested for But Officer is a real ingenue color a fleshy tone like you re really innocent Chapter 4 discusses the meaning of lipstick for the average woman providing anecdotes on its significance and in some cases power The simple gesture of applying color to the mouth represents myriad emotions It transforms a woman from her private to her public self prepares her for the world with one quick smear of the waxy substance This was probably the weakest chapter as I feel there have been much more in depth pieces written on the subject of lipstick s meaning Additionally there is a rather meager exploration of red lipstick which I also think has been covered better elsewhere such as in Jean Marie Martin Hattenberg s Lips of Luxury see my review The book redeems itself in Chapter 5 with an informative review of lipstick s influences on art and pop culture Songs scenes from TV and movies sculptures and paintings inspired by lipstick are covered which will be invaluable for my Makeup as Muse series There were actually a few art pieces that I hadn t heard of previously My final thoughts This is an excellent overview of the general history of lipstick but it wasn t meaty enough for me Each of the themes could have been a book on its own instead they just barely scratched the surface content wise However if you re looking for a quick read or a primer for someone who wants basic information on lipstick as a cultural icon this is perfect Because it s not all that in depth I could see this being of interest even for someone who s not a beauty junkie So it s definitely good to have on your makeup book shelf I do wonder how it stacks up to Jessica Pallingston s Lipstick A Celebration of the World s Favorite Cosmetic which looks like it was released a mere two months before Read My Lips Judging from its tale of contents the two tomes appear rather similar so stay tuned for a review and comparison Are you intrigued by this book Posted at 09 37 AM in Books Cosmetics history Permalink Comments 0 November 06 2014 Book review Beauty and Cosmetics 1550 1950 As I m still trying to build my knowledge of vintage cosmetics and beauty history I thought this book would a valuable addition to my collection Beauty and Cosmetics 1550 1950 by Sarah Jane Downing is one of the few easily available resources that condenses the history of Western beauty practices and ideals in one short tome That s essentially my only gripe with this book it s honestly more of a booklet topping out at a mere 64 pages I would dearly love to see something much longer and in depth The first chapter discusses beauty ideals in Renaissance Europe and their roots in medieval religious beliefs While it wasn t my favorite read it provides the necessary groundwork for the upcoming chapters The second chapter in my opinion is where things get more interesting as Downing reveals some fascinating details on the ingredients and processes used in cosmetics production from that time She begins with the beauty regimen of Queen Elizabeth I which included painting her face with the highly poisonous ceruse a concoction of finely ground white lead powder mixed with vinegar and applied over the face and neck Ack The author notes that while alternatives made of alabaster or starch were available these did not provide the luminous completely smooth perfection that a lead based product did The next chapters deal with cosmetics usage in the 17th and 18th centuries I was quite intrigued by the information on patches a k a fake beauty marks or moles I have been meaning to write a post on these for a while now I got the idea around the time I wrote about faux freckles and Downing s work will definitely be included as a reference I m now also a little obsessed with the idea of acquiring an antique patch box The illustration of an aging woman applying patches below is fabulous but I would have loved to have seen a few pictures of actual patch boxes Another interesting tidbit to counteract the hair loss caused by the frequent wearing of ceruse women sported false eyebrows made from mice fur I guess this isn t so weird given that in the 21st century we have fake eyelashes made from mink Next up Downing describes the dramatic turn beauty trends took in the early 19th century The heavily caked on white makeup and patches so popular with the French aristocracy quickly fell out of favor after the revolution A more natural look was strongly preferred although sometimes this also made use of an equally dangerous method as ceruse A derivative of deadly nightshade belladonna beautiful lady was so named for its beautifying effects as it would dilate the pupils making the eyes poetic dark limpid pools Unfortunately the side effects were less than pretty as it could also cause blindness and possibly paralysis Yikes This chapter also touches on the monumental shift in how cosmetics were perceived and the rise of the beauty industry in the late 19th century While images of ideal beauty remained fairly consistent patches and plucked brows aside other attributes rosy cheeks and lips sparkling eyes clear skin were still in style there was a sea change in how the products required to achieve these qualities were produced Plenty of women still relied on homemade potions made with recipes passed down through generations but pharmacies selling pre mixed unguents were rapidly expanding Below are some of the earliest beauty ads I ve ever seen 1880 on the left and 1897 on the right The final two chapters outline how the industry took off in the early 20th century and the formation of the major brands we know today While other books have covered this era it s refreshing to see another perspective joining in with different ads and bits of history The bottom line as with basically all beauty books I ve reviewed this is a great read for anyone interested in beauty history However it is by no means comprehensive not that I think it was meant to be so it left me yearning for more despite the further reading list included in the back Perhaps Ms Downing and I could collaborate and write a book on beauty in the same time period but have it be 10 times as long I can dream right Posted at 01 39 PM in Books Cosmetics history Permalink Comments 0 April 10 2014 Book review Beauty Imagined I was a little leery of this book While it s been on my Amazon wishlist for a while I was concerned that the author an economist from Harvard would take a topic I adore and turn it into something dreadfully dry and boring Or worse he would use all kinds of fancy jargon that someone with very little understanding of economics i e me wouldn t be able to comprehend However Beauty Imagined A History of the Global Beauty Industry by Geoffrey Jones was quite enjoyable and informative Jones thoroughly traces the industry s origins in the late 19th century through its emergence as the mammoth business it is today connecting company histories with cultural and economic shifts that ultimately helped shape the perception not just of the industry but also our very definition of beauty While Madeleine Marsh s Compacts and Cosmetics and Kathy Peiss s Hope in a Jar are similar in subject matter Beauty Imagined delves more fully into the economic side of beauty s history Still like his fellow authors on cosmetics history Jones ensures his writing never gets dull by peppering the text with a plethora of interesting facts and figures In the first three chapters the author gives us a compelling history of fragrance hair products toothpaste and soap and how these products laid the foundation for color cosmetics It was enlightening in that I hadn t really thought of these as being the ancestral relatives of makeup I had thought of them each having their own discrete background and not integral to say the development of lip gloss But as Jones explains without these more basic items taking root in the early 20th century other products would not have been born Chapters 4 and 5 discuss how neither the Great Depression nor two world wars could stop the growth of the beauty industry as well as the establishment of the connection between Hollywood celebrities and beauty These chapters also explore the growing use of radio movies and TV for beauty advertising Chapters 6 through 8 detail the rise of globalization in the industry describing how local companies slowly but surely transformed into regional then national then international brands from roughly the 1970s to the present day along with the relationship between phamaceutical companies and beauty brands I thought I d highlight some of my favorite nuggets of information Coty s first fragrance La Rose Jacquesminot got picked up by a department store after the founder smashed a bottle of it on the counter to get customers to smell it Cosmetics weren t regulated by the FDA till 1938 Toothpaste was available as early as the 1850s but it was packaged in jars Colgate invented the first collapsible toothpaste tube in 1896 The first metal lipstick tube was invented in 1915 and the first twist up tube in 1921 Avon s original name was the California Perfume Company The notion of green beauty goes back much further than one would think Clarins Yves Rocher and Biotherm were all established in the 1950s with an emphasis on using natural plant based ingredients As of 2010 consumers spent 382 billion on cosmetics fragrance and toiletries worldwide The only problem I had with the book in that it s not actually a problem at all is that there are complete endnotes for each chapter and perusing them I came across a ton more beauty history books I want to read Bottom line Beauty Imagined is different than other beauty books but in a good way and an excellent read even for those of us who don t have a background in business Oh and if your thirst for knowledge still isn t sated check out the videos of Dr Jones discussing the book here and here Posted at 03 13 PM in Books Cosmetics history Permalink Comments 0 September 17 2013 Book review Lips of Luxury In preparation to see the exhibition in collaboration with the Makeup in New York event next week so excited I bought Lips of Luxury by Jean Marie Martin Hattenberg The book is full of beautiful and true to the title luxurious vintage lipsticks Here s a little taste of the amazing objects in this tome Lenox lipstick holder Cases modeled after the Leaning Tower of Pisa I cannot get over the exquisite architectural details Max Factor Watercolor Pastels set The author works in some contemporary pieces as well like my beloved Paul Joe Eye candy notwithstanding Lips of Luxury isn t only pretty pictures to drool over Hattenberg provides a brief history of lipstick and the many different shades of the most popular hue red and the third chapter is devoted to how it s made today The last chapter consists of interviews with top makeup artists and other industry leaders such as Francois Nars and Givenchy s Nicolas Degennes who explain in their own words what lipstick and the color red means to them While not as thorough as Jessica Pallingston s book on lipstick which I will get around to reviewing one of these days I actually think the brevity in discussing lipstick s history and future works here Given the volume of glorious vintage items anything longer than bite sized pieces of interesting research and facts about lipstick interspersed within would be far too lengthy Having said that I would have liked to have seen just a few more details on some of the items included For example there s no information other than the date on the Max Factor lipsticks pictured above was this a display case in a store or an actual set one could buy There was also a Chanel lipstick from 1930 in an ivory case and I was wondering if it was real ivory or just plastic Overall though I do think this is a great book for any makeup fan to have on hand since it combines beautiful pictures with some history and even a sort of abstract theory of lipstick And while it s only September Lips of Luxury would definitely make a lovely holiday gift for the beauty addict in your life Posted at 09 35 AM in Books Retro Vintage Permalink Comments 0 April 10 2013 Book review Compacts and Cosmetics Compacts and Cosmetics Beauty from Victorian Times to the Present Day by Madeleine Marsh provides a brief history of both the U K and U S beauty industries from the 19th century through today Sorted roughly by decade the book features an abundance of photos depicting items from each period It s an accessible easy read that both beauty culture newbies and long time fans alike would enjoy While I enjoyed the first chapter on beauty rituals in ancient Egypt and Greece I thought the immense chronological jump from this period to Chapter Two covering Victorian times was a bit awkward From there however the narrative flows nicely Marsh sprinkles the text with choice anecdotes noting the beginnings of such familiar beauty brands such as Pond s Maybelline and U K based Boots

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  • The Makeup Museum: Bourjois
    beautyandthedirt com Meanwhile Dior introduced a spinning version of the ever popular DiorShow mascara called DiorShow 360 This product allegedly mimics a makeup artist s application technique for a perfect 360 degree lash styling effect this mascara features a spinning brush that rotates in both directions to adapt to every need whether you re left or right handed or you want to pump up the upper or lower lashes As with vibrating mascaras I m skeptical these would actually work better than a traditional non moving wand Still I think these have more validity than the vibrating ones I think that the motion could in fact yield better results than a manual wand I remember with the vibrating mascaras the mass fear of poking one s eyes out Does a rotating wand present the same threat Hard to say image from sephora com Posted at 11 24 AM in Bourjois Dior Technology Trends Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 November 23 2010 More Parisian goodness from Bourjois Bourjois did it again That is the company collaborated with another Parisian artist to create a limited edition set of blushes I m not sure if I like these as much as the ones by Nathalie L é t é but they are tres cute According to the packaging insert the artist is Juliette Buré A Google search didn t turn up much besides her Facebook page which is very disappointing considering that I wanted to see how these designs compare to her other work Equally disappointing is that I m missing one of the blushes as Asos com was out of stock on one of them Fortunately it came back in so I will post when it arrives Posted at 09 44 PM in Artist collaboration Bourjois Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 February 09 2010 Vintage flair Bourjois little round pots Right after the release of the Rendez vous a Paris collection came two limited edition sets of eye shadows from Bourjois They feature designs taken from actual vintage Bourjois ads Unfortunately I was unable to locate any images of these original ads but the design on these can still be appreciated Here is the brown set The grey set there are 3 of these but one is the same white pot as the brown set so I didn t take pics of it These two are inspired by perfumes Bourjois introduced in the early 20th century Cute no I just wish they weren t so hard to purchase here Bourjois is available at Ulta but these limited edition pieces seem to be available only in the UK Posted at 11 00 AM in Advertising Bourjois Retro Vintage Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 January 05 2010 Rendez vous à Paris part deux Remember how I was bemoaning the fact that asos com was out of stock on some of the Bourjois Rendez vous a Paris items Well in my typical OCD way I kept stalking the site and placed an order for the

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  • The Makeup Museum: Burberry
    Art History Questioning the Litany Norma Broude Power of Feminist Art Prof Gail Steketee Ph D Stuff Compulsive Hoarding and the Meaning of Things Sarah Downing Beauty and Cosmetics 1550 1950 Susan Faludi Backlash The Undeclared War Against American Women Virginia L Blum Flesh Wounds The Culture of Cosmetic Surgery Burberry February 01 2016 Couture Monday Burberry spring 2016 runway palette I usually don t like to post spring items until at least the beginning of March but I couldn t resist sharing a little taste of spring today Burberry continues its streak of runway palettes with two lovely highlighters one a rich gold the other a bright shimmery white embossed with a lace pattern taken from their spring 2016 fashion collection I picked up the white one as it seemed more spring like to me Burberry chose a leather and lace theme for their spring 2016 collection I eagerly looked at the detail photos for the lacy pieces to find where the pattern on the palette had come from While it looked close to some of the pieces it wasn t an exact match And then I realized the pattern on the palette is actually from the lace that appeared on several men s items I hadn t thought to investigate the details for the men s stuff initially but the fact that I couldn t find the exact pattern was driving me nuts so I took a good look at them Here s the section of the pattern that was reproduced on the palette images from vogue com I guess I shouldn t be surprised that Burberry took the pattern from men s items which is a tactic Paul Joe also uses occasionally but I do find it interesting I wonder whether their marketing people thought it would be more visually appealing or whether it was easier to re create in powder form than the lace that appeared on the women s pieces Like Chanel s Dentelle Précieuse I guess we ll never know their reasoning for using this particular lace pattern sure What do you think Where does this fall for you in terms of lace themed palettes I like it more than Dior s and Dolce Gabbana s but still not as much as the aforementioned Chanel I also like it more than both of Burberry s previous runway palettes as it was more intricate than the fall 2015 camouflage palette and not quite as literal as last spring s Rain or Shine palette I had to dig a little for the pattern Posted at 05 52 PM in Burberry Couture Fashion Permalink Comments 2 October 26 2015 Couture Monday Burberry fall 2015 I don t think the fall 2015 palette from Burberry is quite as cute as their spring 2015 offering but it was worth purchasing for the Museum s collection I may be biased because I finally fulfilled a long time desire to get a camouflage jacket as homage to a character from one

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  • The Makeup Museum: Cargo
    branding underwent a massive facelift last fall partnering with illustrator Bernadette Pascua more about that later This spring Cargo has moved on to team up with another talented artist Meegan Barnes for a tea party inspired tin and palette The Suited to a Tea collection showcases cheerful renderings of delectable teatime treats as well as Cargo s products Cupcakes macarons and lip gloss are neatly placed in a grid against a pale pink background images from macys com While the pattern is cute where Barnes really shines with this collection is her depiction of Chloe Cargo s new illustrated muse who represents the core Cargo customer Unfortunately Chloe only appears at Cargo s website rather than on the actual makeup packaging which is why I hesitate to purchase one of these items It s a shame since in her figurative illustrations Barnes displays a masterful use of color that simultaneously manages to be both exuberant and delicate and that s not as visible in the small objects on the Cargo packaging image from facebook com images from meeganbarnes com The Los Angeles based Barnes got her professional start in New York in the late 90s Since then she has collaborated with a number of fashion labels and magazines including Banana Republic Nylon and Urban Outfitters While her drawings for Cargo are still in keeping with her illustrative style other collaborations as well as her personal work point to an edgier tougher side that s not apparent in the very sweet Chloe illustrations Take for example her series ModelsFalling Or the women depicted in her drawings for a book cover Matahari and t shirts for Zoo York Pretty badass right They re a sharp contrast to the more innocent girlish Chloe images from meeganbarnes com I think one of the marks of a good artist is knowing exactly the feel or vibe of a collection when teaming up with a client and adjusting their style accordingly In this case Barnes turns down the gritty and cranks up the pretty While I admire Barnes work for Cargo I m still wondering what happened to the first illustrator Cargo hired for their re branding effort Bernadette Pascua I contacted the company and was told that she worked on the fall 2013 and winter 2014 campaigns and that Meegan Barnes had taken over for spring 2014 images from facebook com What Cargo neglected to tell me was whether it was a matter of Pascua dropping out of the project so a permanent replacement Barnes was found or whether it was just that from the start they had decided that artists would change every few seasons I guess time will tell What do you think of Meegan Barnes work and the Suited to a Tea collection Posted at 09 50 AM in Artist collaboration Cargo Permalink Comments 0 May 14 2013 Around the world with Cargo revisited Way way WAY back in early 2010 I posted about these eye shadow palettes from Cargo each named

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  • The Makeup Museum: Chanel
    Monday Chanel Rêve d Orient quad Today I want to share a relatively hard to find Chanel quad that debuted during their 2015 cruise collection show This quad is also being given away by me there s still a few hours left to enter but will be arriving soon to the Chanel website so don t fret if you don t win the giveaway Rêve d Orient has a gorgeous color scheme consisting of shimmery ivory warm gold deep bronze and matte black all embossed with a smattering of tiny stars This quad was used on the models for 2015 resort collection runway show to create a smoky Middle East inspired eye with a dab of luxurious gold leaf placed on the inner corners image from vogue co uk However I have no idea why a star design was included on the shadows themselves Stars didn t appear on any of the clothing One possibility is that it s an homage to Islamic religion the show took place in Dubai whose mosques are sometimes adorned with stars The most famous example is the Star Mosque in Bangladesh image from beautifulmosque com Some mosques have stars at the top of their spires usually paired with a crescent image from essaouira nu And some of the headbands at the show featured a crescent motif image from vogue co uk Still most star patterns in Islamic art and architecture consist of 6 8 and 10 pointed stars so it s quite a reach to assume Islam is what Chanel was referencing especially considering there s no symmeterical pattern but rather a random scattering of stars It could just be that it s a nonspecific expression of Karl Lagerfeld s latest take on the East meets West theme As Lagerfeld remarked It s a collection made for this part of the world but I think and hope it s for women all over the world The more likely possibility is that as with the Camelia de Plumes highlighter the stars are borrowed from the first jewelry line by Coco Chanel that was introduced in 1932 specifically the Comète series Here are some of the original pieces does anyone else find the mannequins to be incredibly creepy images from elle com An updated line was released for the original s 80th anniversary in 2012 images from chanel com Since I have no conclusive answer on the star pattern I thought I d show you a slightly different Rêve d Orient This 1881 watercolor by Gustave Moreau 1826 1898 has the same name as the Chanel quad and shows a Peri a fairy like creature from Persian mythology perched on a dragon and holding a lotus flower The top of a mosque appears on the right side in the background image from christies com You can read the entire description of this work and the meaning behind it here since Christie s does a much better job than I can Moreau is one of my favorite artists I love French Symbolism and I m actually reading this book on it now so I was really excited to find this Anyway as with the Chanel Camelia de Plumes highlighter I m a little disappointed there was no concrete explanation for the pattern Both palettes vaguely reference Chanel fashion and history but there s no real literal connection to the clothing we saw in recent shows Nevertheless the Rêve d Orient quad is pretty and the star design is perfect for the upcoming holiday exhibition so I can t complain too much What do you think the stars mean And I know it s comparing apples to oranges but do you prefer Chanel s Rêve d Orient or Moreau s Posted at 06 05 PM in Art history Chanel Couture Fashion Permalink Comments 2 November 17 2014 Couture Monday Chanel Camelia de Plumes As soon as I saw this palette from Chanel I knew I had to have it Not only was I drawn to it due to the sparkly platinum gold color I liked that the classic camellia was illustrated a bit differently its petals made from feathery plumes anchored by a gemstone shape in the center The description for the palette states that it was inspired by Gabrielle Chanel s original jewelry creations and I m guessing it took its cue from the Plume de Chanel jewelry collection released last year which also referenced the original line from 1932 From the website The feather entered the CHANEL creative landscape in 1932 when Mademoiselle opened her apartment in the rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré to present her Fine Jewellery collection It was called quite simply Bijoux de Diamants It explored the timeless themes that she particularly loved and which became some of the House classics comets stars bows one of these new creations particularly caught the eye a spectacular brooch in the form of a feather It was intentionally large and extravagant fully jointed and set with diamonds Deliberately daring it called on the imagination of the wearer It was magnificent pinned to a hat on a dress as a tiara or even snuggling against a shoulder to emphasise its curves The gracefully feminine Plume de CHANEL is an unmissable collection that demonstrates the independent creative spirit of CHANEL as well as its outstanding jewellery expertise Mademoiselle Chanel s visionary spirit is still very much alive in this collection spreading its wings once more in the contemporary age Here is the brooch plus other pieces from the contemporary collection image from theparisianeye com images from chanel com While I couldn t find a jewelry piece that specifically looked to be a camellia made from feather shapes I like that the highlighter palette at least references the collection I m still puzzled as to why Chanel chose to release this highlighter now since feathers did not figure prominently in any of the recent fashion collections so I m not sure why they d want to reference a jewelry

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  • The Makeup Museum: Chantecaille
    for sheep and cattle The Humane Society works to pass legal protections for the horses and to persuade the government to manage populations with humane effective economical methods instead of allowing them to be sold and slaughtered When I first saw this palette I do what I always do when it comes to animals appearing on beauty products try to remember whether I d ever seen horses in an ad or on another palette There was Paul Joe s Carousel collection this past spring which featured horses but they were really more merry go round ponies than living breathing horses So I decided to do a little research and to my surprise horses have made it into a number of makeup ads Elizabeth Arden first used an equestrian theme in 1937 and revisited it 10 years later images from hprints com Guerlain 1953 image from hprints com And the best of the bunch in my opinion simply because the ad copy cracks me up is Revlon s Stormy Pink ad from 1963 you can still buy this shade today image from ebay com Hunting scenes involving horses also made it on to several compacts like these beauties from Tussy 1960s and Stratton 1950s image from etsy com image from etsy com So horses in beauty ads and products weren t as rare as I suspected Getting back to the Chantecaille palette this isn t my favorite First of all I m not a horse fan There I said it I just don t understand how they re considered the graceful majestic creatures they re usually made out to be To me they re just not attractive This doesn t mean of course that I think they should be wiped out or that I m indifferent to them being rounded up and slaughtered but purely from an aesthetic standpoint I find them to be rather uninteristing and ugly awkward smelly and somewhat dangerous with no real redeeming qualities The other reason this isn t my favorite offering from Chantecaille is that this is the 6th animal themed palette in a row following sharks elephants turtles tigers and dolphins with the same four pan design so frankly I m getting bored Would it kill Chantecaille to shake it up a little and come up with a different design I wish they would revisit their glory days of the Protected Paradise palettes Anyway what do you think of this palette Posted at 10 17 AM in Chantecaille Permalink Comments 0 May 22 2013 Swimming with Chantecaille s sharks This was actually a spring release but I thought it was more appropriate for summer Chantecaille is helping rescue yet another animal in 2013 Proceeds from the Save the Sharks palette go to the BLOOM Association a group that works to ban all unregulated shark fin trade I m glad since shark fin soup sounds pretty gross anyway Instead of depicting a whole shark Chantecaille opted to show only the fin which I guess highlights the plight of the charity they re working with However it may have been more visually interesting to make a bigger face or eye palette that would accommodate the full shark Plus while the pleasing color harmony and shimmery textures counter any sort of menacing effect there s still something a little Jaws like about showing just the fins And here s a tiny dose of art history John Singleton Copley completed Watson and the Shark in 1778 which depicts a 14 year old cabin boy named Brook Watson struggling to escape a shark attack in Havana Harbor image from nga gov While it looks like Watson is a goner in reality he survived although the shark did claim the lower part of one of his legs So while we have two wildly different representations of sharks both point to the majesty and danger these animals embody Posted at 10 45 AM in Chantecaille Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 January 24 2013 Group portraits Chantecaille Click to enlarge Top row Protected Paradise compacts Middle row Coral La Baleine Bleue La Baleine Blanche Bottom row White Tiger and Bengali Bronzer compacts Top row Save the Sharks Coral Reefs Bottom row L Éléphant Les Dauphins Sea Turtle Top left The Shadow and the Rose Middle Garden in Kyoto Elephant Cheek Shade Ethereal Eyes Bottom Les Papillons eye shadows Related articles Petals up close and personal Chantecaille holiday 2012 Posted at 10 40 AM in Chantecaille Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 December 11 2012 Petals up close and personal Chantecaille holiday 2012 While not as impressive as some of their other animal themed palettes Chantecaille released a nice little compact for the holiday season Les Pétales de Rose highlighting powder is inpired by the marvelously soft color and texture of crushed rose petals while the kaleidoscope of colorful powders blends seamlessly onto the skin offering a subtle veil of radiance image from barneys com This does in fact resemble bits of crushed rose petals I found an excellent comparison in the photos of Horticultural Arts on Flickr These images like Chantecaille s palette show that the beauty of crushed rose petals can be heightened by chaotic scattering via Flickr I like this new take on the rose a refreshing update on Chantecaille s and other brands usual rose shaped powders Still I go back and forth as to whether it s Makeup Museum worthy What do you think Posted at 06 28 PM in Chantecaille Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 September 27 2012 Elephant walk with Chantecaille As we ve seen with the Bengal Tiger powders Sea Turtles palette and many other items Chantecaille has demonstrated a commitment to preserving wildlife This fall the company will donate 5 of the proceeds from their L Éléphant palette to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust an organization that rescues fosters and release baby elephants orphaned by ivory poaching The colors are Ivory Grasslands Iron Ore and Red Earth and were inspired by the trends seen on

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  • The Makeup Museum: Clarins
    annual program launched in 2008 by the Korean version of this beauty magazine The campaign aims to increase public awareness of the importance of the environment While I couldn t find much info for the 2013 campaign I imagine it was similar to the one for 2012 In 2012 ten illustrators contributed original drawings to be used on t shirts and Korean celebrities modeled their creations All of the proceeds from the t shirts went to an animal monitoring program run by Green Korea United that has the protection of mountain goats as one of its chief initiatives Gobugi was one of the illustrators selected to create the designs that year as well You can see the other goat tastic designs here and here Nearly 25 000 was raised As far as I know the Green Campaign is a Korea exclusive campaign which strikes me as very strange it s a fantastic idea that Allure should implement in other countries I ll leave you with this strange but still celebratory image Gobugi created for Allure Korea s 9th anniversary If she thoroughly works her Allure connections maybe we will see a Gobugi collaboration with an actual makeup line rather than magazine t shirt illustrations While impressive in those formats I would dearly love to see her designs on a palette images from gobugipaper co kr What do you think of Gobugi s work And do you think Allure s Green Campaign should be worldwide Posted at 01 34 PM in Artist collaboration Clarins Green Permalink Comments 0 April 16 2013 Clarins spring 2013 To brighten up this gray day I thought I d share a little floral happiness from Clarins The spring 2013 face palette features an embossed iris with stripes and pink and peach on either side I don t really have much to say about this except that like Karen at Makeup and Beauty Blog I thought this was a hibiscus It doesn t look very iris like to me either in color or shape I also wish Clarins would fill us in on where they get their inspiration They ve been making some really gorgeous palettes in recent years but it seems they just slap something on with no explanation It s a little frustrating for collectors like me who like to know about the design behind each piece Still it s a worthy addition to a spring exhibition Related articles Not Van Gogh Elizabeth Arden sunflower palettes Spring 2013 color trend Minty fresh Posted at 10 36 AM in Clarins Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 November 27 2012 Fit for a goddess A holiday odyssey with Clarins Clarins really upped their game this season in terms of packaging This beautiful highlighting powder from their Odyssey collection is presented in a gold case with delicate engraved details The powder inside features the same design I m amazed at the level of intricacy With flash The collection contains several other pieces with the same motif including this deluxe makeup palette image from salonskincare co uk And this eye shadow quad I did a little digging about the inspiration behind the collection As the name and Grecian garb clad model would suggest ancient Greece played a part in the development of the design images from facebook com Apparently the motif is the original Odyssey emblem of ancient Greece I searched high and low but couldn t find any information on this symbol or even anything that suggested it actually existed I will say however that the lavish gold and elaborate pattern is certainly reminiscent of ancient Greek jewelry Take a gander at this necklace and earrings all from about 300 B C images from metmuseum org In that sense Clarins captured the more extravagant opulent side of ancient Greek culture While I would have liked to see a more concrete explanation for the motif it s not as vague as some previous Clarins collections And the level of detail is on par with more high end brands so all in all I m pleased with this Did you will you be partaking in the Odyssey collection Posted at 04 53 PM in Clarins Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 July 17 2012 Clarins summer 2012 going in circles I thought this eye shadow quartet from Clarins summer collection would be a good follow up to yesterday s post on Chanel s Indian inspired palette I didn t purchase this because I didn t think it was quite up to Museum standards nor do I see it fitting in to any upcoming exhibitions just yet but it s worth a mention The outer case has a delicately dotted pattern along the left and a large circular one on the right The same shapes appear on each eye shadow images from nordstrom com I m not sure about the teardrop shaped design but I m fairly certain the circular pattern is a variation on a mandala a motif in Buddhist and Hindu art According to mandalaproject org the word mandala is from the classical Indian language of Sanskrit Loosely translated to mean circle a mandala is far more than a simple shape It represents wholeness and can be seen as a model for the organizational structure of life itself a cosmic diagram that reminds us of our relation to the infinite the world that extends both beyond and within our bodies and minds Here are some examples on a temple ceiling in Madurai South India image from travel yahoo com Here s a more detailed shot of the ceiling And a mandala on the floor images from kitchenoperas com However I m inclined to think the Clarins design looks less authentic than the mandalas you d find in temples it looks more like this henna tattoo drawing image from tattoodonkey com What do you think Posted at 01 29 PM in Clarins Design Permalink Comments 0 TrackBack 0 April 26 2012 Clarins spin on pinwheels Clarins summer collection is already out but

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  • The Makeup Museum: Cle de Peau
    and the kind of concept which suits the brand In another interview he adds The designs are not a diluted version of my work it was a good opportunity to do something different There was an active discussion and it is 100 what I wanted to convey I knew that Shiseido was a top global company focused on beauty When I talked to Clé de Peau s design team I was impressed how precise they were For example for the color red they even went into the different percentage of red in the hue The collection is not meant to be a distinctive difference between my past and present work but it s my personal interpretation of something beautiful Obviously as a collector I was thrilled to get the inside scoop on how the collaboration process operated and that there was actually an in depth discussion between the designer and the cosmetics company which is sometimes lacking in other collaborations and also happy to see Jojima s acknowledgement that this was a new creative experience for him As for Pieroni Venice is a frequent destination that inspired her to do something special to commemorate her 10 year anniversary of joining Clé de Peau From Vanity Fair In celebration of her 10th year with Clé de Peau as creative makeup director Lucia Pieroni looked to Venice to create her coveted collection for this holiday Having traveled to Venice on various work assignments throughout her artistic career she remembers being mesmerized by the fabled scenery I was always struck by the beautiful colors of this ancient city how the light and water would reflect on the ornate buildings like the Doge s Palace and Piazza San Marco she says How she decided on a masquerade theme I m not sure but I think it was genius to select Jojima for it As I said his work seems rather dark and I never would have thought to work with him on a beauty collection However Pieroni was able to see his potential for a masquerade themed collection and Jojima for his part understood that it was an opportunity to do something different I liked that she took a chance on him and he delivered I ve always had one goal in life to create something beautiful and strong that s never been seen before he says Mission accomplished What do you think I was toying with the idea of doing a smackdown between this collection and Paul Joe s but honestly it wouldn t have been a fair fight Posted at 10 45 AM in Cle de Peau Permalink Comments 0 December 04 2014 Clé de Peau holiday 2014 collection As they did in 2013 Clé de Peau collaborated with an outside artist to create their holiday collection I was somewhat tempted by last year s collaboration but when I couldn t find any information on the artist they teamed up with I decided to skip purchasing anything This year fortunately Clé de Peau chose Swash London a company with readily available information Plus I think the final product is prettier than last year s The Beauté Céleste collection consists of a coffret which includes a palette and lipstick a pressed powder compact and a lip gloss trio I picked up the coffret and pressed powder the latter was quite difficult to find First up is the coffret I liked that the inner part of the box lid continued the star pattern The palette comes with its own soft pouch I didn t take pictures of the mascara for obvious reasons but here s what the lipstick looks like Swash London is the official company name of design duo Sarah Swash and Toshio Yamanaka who were responsible for the patterns found on Clé de Peau s holiday collection Founded in 2005 Swash began designing scarves and expanded to include a comprehensive line of women s wear a few years later Their illustrations have adorned the likes of Barneys Le Bon Marche and other stores in Japan and France as well as London Fun fact the dog in the pattern is based on their beloved whippet Candy and is a motif in many of their designs What spurred me to purchase the admittedly pricey coffret you ask I went to the Swash London site to see if the pattern was taken from one of their pieces and indeed it was A modified star filled version of an original pattern from one of Swash s fall 2010 collection scarves appears on the Clé de Peau coffret I love the squirrel and wish he hadn t been dropped from the coffret design images from swash co uk Here s the powder compact it was quite a saga getting this into my hot little hands Since I don t live near a Clé de Peau counter I thought the easiest thing to do would be to order it online Much to my chagrin it never appeared at the Neiman Marcus website where the coffret and lip gloss trio were available or any other U S department store except for Nordstrom where it sold out immediately I know this because I was checking every other day I searched on a Monday and then again on Wednesday morning and it popped up but said it was unavailable I was determined to track it down however and did a live chat during which the customer service rep informed me that a store in Hawaii still had one left I called and was able to snag it So long story short the powder compact wasn t available in many places and mine had to travel over 3 000 miles to get to me When I purchased this compact I didn t know whether the pattern also was borrowed from an original Swash design I just knew it was different from the coffret and so beautifully embossed on the powder itself that I had to get it Luckily the pattern on this

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