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  • Getting auto reset to work with FTDI cables on Linux (MAC) | My 2µF
    die could not open port serial port link pulse rts on pulse time link pulse rts off pulse time avrdude opt string system avrdude 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 usr bin perl use Device SerialPort avrdude hardware tools avrdude bin my line my opt string my pulse time 100 time in ms for line ARGV opt string opt string line my serial port opt string m P dev w looks for names with letters numbers no serial port 1 print Serial Port serial port my link Device SerialPort new serial port die could not open port serial port link pulse rts on pulse time link pulse rts off pulse time avrdude opt string system avrdude The script extracts the serial port from the string passed to avrdude by the IDE Then it creates the reset pulse by changing the level of the RTS line Then it just calls avrdude bin as usual This little hack is necessary as the IDE uses the DTR line to reset the Arduino The FTDI cables break out the RTS line instead of DTR Hint for MAC users Depending on how the virtual serial port is named on your system maybe something like dev cua usbserial you ll have to adjust the REGEX which extracts the serial port from the avrdude call This happens here opt string m 1 opt string m Flashing the bootloader with the Arduino IDE This Perl script currently conflicts with that method as the REGEX match can t find a serial port in that case You can still flash the bootloader by hand quite easily This entry was posted in Arduino Electronics and tagged auto reset DTR FTDI hack RTS Bookmark the permalink Using a standard Arduino to program V3 Matrix boards Displaying images on 8 8 RGB LED displays 4 Responses to Getting auto reset to work with FTDI cables on Linux MAC robert says November 11 2009 at 18 37 The first happy user http forums adafruit com viewtopic php f 25 t 13339 Reply robert says November 22 2009 at 12 19 Another happy user but using Python Same post as above Reply robert says November 30 2009 at 14 30 Same happy user different site http disappearingstaircase blogspot com 2009 11 ubuntu arduino and ftdi cable html Reply Pingback Getting Started with Arduino Chapter Ten t r o n i x s t u f f Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published Required fields are marked Comment Notify me of followup comments via e mail Name Email Website Leave this field empty CAPTCHA Code Search for Recent Comments robert on YauDL Y et a nother u seless D ummy L oad Andrew Duckworth on YauDL Y et a nother u seless D ummy L oad robert on YOUYUE 858D hotair station BLDC Fan speed mod Serhii on YOUYUE

    Original URL path: http://blog.spitzenpfeil.org/wordpress/2009/05/02/getting-auto-reset-to-work-with-ftdi-cables-on-linuxmac/ (2016-02-10)
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  • V3 prototypes for sale | My 2µF
    left Reply andy says April 14 2009 at 18 49 have you set up paypal if so send the payment request to email removed to avoid spam thanks Reply andy says April 15 2009 at 20 48 Hi rob il send the payment tomorrow evening cant wait to get them i would definalty like two more boards minus the matricies in the futer Thanks Reply andy says April 18 2009 at 13 42 hi rob sent the payment you requested and my car failed as usuall lol Reply samsnet says May 9 2009 at 19 10 Did I just get the last one or is this a whole new batch How would I daisy chain 4 of these together and run it from my computer using Processing thanks Reply robert says May 10 2009 at 00 44 Hi No I didn t offer any of these prototypes on Etsy That was a one time thing and also included a LED matrix I haven t used the Processing language before but basically you d have to do is somewhat like this http processing org reference libraries serial Serial write html cut processing import libraries import processing serial Serial myPort serial port instance char data void setup list all the serial ports println Serial list based on the list of serial ports printed from the previous command change the 0 to your port s number String portnum Serial list 0 initialize the serial port myPort new Serial this portnum 9600 void draw data 0 myPort write data delay 500 data 1 myPort write data delay 500 END cut arduino serial listener I²C master define LED 4 define wire slave 1 addr 0x12 define wire slave 2 addr 0x13 include Wire h void setup void pinMode LED OUTPUT blink led Serial begin 9600 Wire begin join i2c bus as master address optional for master void loop void byte data in 0 if Serial available data in Serial read if data in 0 digitalWrite LED LOW turn local LED off Wire beginTransmission wire slave 1 addr Wire send 0x00 turn remote LED off Wire endTransmission Wire beginTransmission wire slave 2 addr Wire send 0x00 turn remote LED off Wire endTransmission else if data in 1 digitalWrite LED HIGH turn local LED on Wire beginTransmission wire slave 1 addr Wire send 0x01 turn remote LED off Wire endTransmission Wire beginTransmission wire slave 2 addr Wire send 0x01 turn remote LED off Wire endTransmission else void blink led void digitalWrite LED HIGH delay 1000 digitalWrite LED LOW END cut arduino I²C slave define LED 4 define wire slave addr 0x12 set to 0x12 or 0x13 on different boards include Wire h void setup void pinMode LED OUTPUT blink led Wire begin wire slave addr Wire onReceive receiveEvent void loop void void receiveEvent int dummy byte data in 0 if Wire available data in Wire receive if data in 0x00 digitalWrite LED LOW else if data in 0x01 digitalWrite LED HIGH else void blink led void digitalWrite

    Original URL path: http://blog.spitzenpfeil.org/wordpress/2009/04/12/v3-prototypes-for-sale/ (2016-02-10)
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  • 8×8 RGB Matrix — 2nd arduino project | My 2µF
    to PB1 so that define display enable 9 makes sense 4 connect the 10k resistor from PB1 to 5V PS I hate SPAM CAPTCHA Reply ISO B says November 27 2009 at 18 12 So I need to separate OE and GROUND pins After that connect OE pins to arduino pin 9 And but 10k resistor between arduino pin 9 and 5V Am I right Reply robert says November 27 2009 at 20 11 Yes Reply ISO B says November 27 2009 at 22 37 Thanks man now it works like it should be I will but video when I finnish rest of table Reply y says August 1 2010 at 20 05 Hi i m trying to build 8 8 RGB Matrix 2nd arduino project and i would put a microphone in for make that leds go with music You know how Thanks Reply robert says August 1 2010 at 21 02 You will definitely need an amplifier to make it work properly Something like this might work http forum sparkfun com viewtopic php t 11430 highlight sound http sound westhost com project60 htm Reply Andy says September 13 2010 at 19 53 Hi I put together the circuit on a breadboard using a regular Arduino Duemilanove 328 connected to PC via USB I get the basic code to run ok but I can t get the perl script to connectfor the show ppm version I installed ActivePerl in order to run perl on the pc I am not sure if the problem is with that Perl definitely runs ok I get errors about the T in the first line of your code and if I remove that then I get Can t locate Device serialPort pm in INC Is it possible to use this code without your custom board I am really keen to make some animations for the LED matrix so any help with getting this working would be much apprieciated Thanks Reply robert says September 13 2010 at 22 20 Seems like you re missing a module I guess it is Device SerialPort or as you seem to be using windoze you ll have to install Win32 SerialPort with PPM Then you d have to replace Device SerialPort with Win32 SerialPort and dev ttyUSB with COM1 or whatever port you have Something along these lines http pastebin com EEFnarYY expires in 1 month Win32 SerialPort Documentation http search cpan org bbirth Win32 SerialPort 0 22 lib Win32 SerialPort pm Reply Andy says September 14 2010 at 12 18 Hi thanks a lot it is starting to work but now I get errors Use of uninitialized value in division at C Perl eg show ppm pl line 65 also for lines 66 67 I only count 25 x3 of these errors ie for each line 25 x but maybe it went through whole image matrix but there is ony space left on screen for these I hope I put the image file name in correct place open FILE cross ppm open ppm image file my image load the data in an array close FILE Thanks again Reply robert says September 14 2010 at 12 42 Hmm The version I posted should be called like so perl show ppm pl image ppm This assumes that show ppm pl and image ppm are in the same folder The complaints about uninitialized division suggests that the image has not been read and the array that should hold the data is empty Reply Andy says September 14 2010 at 12 49 It still gives the same error Reply Andy says September 14 2010 at 17 40 Hi everything is in right folder and perl is working ok I called the script the way you said but it doesn t help It does seem to be something about the image not being read properly but why Reply Andy says September 14 2010 at 17 50 Aha sorry it appears the fault is in my ppm file I tried it now with your original files and it works Now I try to a get the image to stay longer you have it fading away yes b get the animations working Thanks for your help getting the perl serial port working Reply Andy says September 14 2010 at 18 39 I ve now installed Gimp but I still get problems saving a ppm that will work I ve saved as raw 8 8 pixels RGB Is it a pc thing Saw that the fading is in the arduino code but I don t see how to make the animation run the perl script is the same in both your versions as far as I can see I d ideally like to run animations on the matrix standalone not connected to the pc is this possible with your code and setup Thanks again Reply robert says September 14 2010 at 22 24 You can adjust the fadeout timeout in show image pde here define fade out display 2000 in milliseconds To run stand alone animations the loop function of the arduino code should look like this void loop void this would show the images stored in the above PROGMEM arrays byte counter for counter 0 counter 10 counter show image counter 100 There s already an animation stored in the code consisting of 10 frames To convert your own ppm images use convert ppm to array pl on the image It will spit out c code which you can put into the arduino code in the same manner as shown in the little demo The images must be named like frame1 ppm etc so the converter knows how to number the arrays for the c code Be sure to also adjust const char frames frame1 frame2 frame3 frame4 accordingly I create ppm images using GIMP like this Create a new image with 8x8 pixels draw draw draw save as e g frame5 ppm chose option RAW BTW I hope you use the code I ve

    Original URL path: http://blog.spitzenpfeil.org/wordpress/2008/09/08/8x8-rgb-matrix-2nd-arduino-project/ (2016-02-10)
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  • 8×8 RGB Matrix — first prototype on perfboard | My 2µF
    line of 1 pixel high and 64 long awkward pcb though Reply Chris says November 30 2008 at 20 42 Hi nice work How does the scanning work in your project In a normal matrix with no PWM you might load data into the 595s and then scan through the rows In your example you re achieving different PWM per pixel so are you scanning rows and colums in order to vary the PWM as you move to the next pixel Reply robert says December 2 2008 at 03 10 That s right I do the very same thing just way faster To achieve individual PWM per pixel each full refresh of the matrix scanning the rows draws 1 N of the full PWM cycle for all pins When loading the shift register the algorithm determines if a LED should be on or off depending on the desired brightness and the current refresh cycle of the matrix After N refreshes of the matrix the PWM cycle is complete Reply andy says December 11 2008 at 18 18 any luck with scrolling code cheers Reply andy says December 11 2008 at 18 19 Hi any luck with scrolling code Reply andy says December 16 2008 at 15 15 hi could you email the schematic in its original eagal form thanks andy Reply Aaron says January 7 2009 at 00 22 Nice work How many matrices could you connect to a single arduino I am tempted to go your route but i need 6 matrices in a single system I was planning on buying the sparkfun version but yours looks like a better solution also what s the average current draw without the drivers Reply robert says January 7 2009 at 01 21 If you want to do PWM for extended color mixing or per LED brightness control it s 1 matrix per arduino there s not enough ram to store more than one matrix it s also a speed issue to get the data shifted out fast enough to get it flicker free if you reduce the colors to what the sparkfun module provides by just statically mixing the LEDs you can maybe run 2 matrices if you devise a more efficient way of storing the state in RAM one pixel will just need 3bits but this doesn t fit into bytes easily without wasting memory I haven t measured the current yet but it s less than 500mA It doesn t blow the arduino s fuse Reply Frollard says January 15 2009 at 07 31 A thought more efficient use of RAM 3 bits doesnt fit instead of putting the 3 bits next to each other in memory use 3 bytes to hold 8 led s values I love the project and I m definitely gonna build one been needing a new project for my arduino Reply robert says January 15 2009 at 15 09 Ah yes this is possible of course The only problem with it is that some R G B triplets are split over 2 bytes This is possible but complicates the logic of storing reading the data a bit Reply andy says February 22 2009 at 03 22 hi can you email the pcb as have had no luck with doing mine thanks Reply robert says February 24 2009 at 23 05 I ve added a new post with some KICAD files Use at your own risk unchecked was never built Reply Francis says April 20 2009 at 22 43 Hey can you clarify for what part of the code I would have to change to use a common cathod matrix I it up and runing but obviously some things are working backwards Thanks Reply robert says April 21 2009 at 00 31 Francis Hmmm let s see First you should make sure that this is in the right order spi transfer blue spi transfer green spi transfer red spi transfer B00000001 row If your matrix has common cathode rows and common anode columns the exact inverse of mine then you have to change this in the above piece of code spi transfer B00000001 row This just sends the inverse of the previous byte as now 1 off 0 on Then replace byte row B00000000 row current source on when 1 with byte row B11111111 row current sink on when 0 and red B11111111 off green B11111111 off blue B11111111 off with red B00000000 off green B00000000 off blue B00000000 off and finally red 1 led green 1 led blue 1 led with red 1 led green 1 led blue 1 led This should be all Reply Francis says April 22 2009 at 19 54 robert Thanks It works great One odd thing though the bottom row of LEDS is always about twice as bright as the others I double checked resistor values and swapped the row selector chip but the problem persists Did you ever run into that problem Reply robert says April 22 2009 at 20 17 No that sounds odd As it persists after swapping the chips it sounds more like a code issue But I haven t seen anything like that with any of my boards Have you measured the LED s forward voltage of the bottom row I think it should be unlikely but maybe they are different BTW did you use 74HC595 or 74HCT595 The HC ones are much better for this job Reply Francis says April 24 2009 at 18 17 I m closing in on the problem it seems that in only occurs with functions that use hue not the rgb functions Reply Francis says April 24 2009 at 18 20 maybe there is something in the set led hue function that needs to be adjusted for a common cathod matrix Reply robert says May 2 2009 at 02 57 Francis I sent you an email Reply H sawkee says May 11 2009 at 21 37 kindly forward me the full circuit diagram thanks Reply robert says May 11 2009 at 23 12 Why not download it I posted the files on my blog Reply jan says May 14 2009 at 01 21 hi Robert i have the same problem as Francis but i m using a common anode matrix the demo runs pretty much fine except for what seems to be an offset error for example the smiley it has a bar of LEDs in the top row also the colors are of in some demos and the top row is always 2x brighter than then rest of the row the bottom row is about 1 5x times brighter than the others I m using a BL M23A881RGB Matrix with 4 74HC595Ns haven t integrated the UDN2981A yet it would be great if you have any tips what could be wrong cheers jan Reply robert says May 14 2009 at 02 28 First forget about the UDN2981A this chip is way too slow It will create ghost images on the matrix Seeedstudio use the Mitsubishi M54564P FP which is faster but I haven t found a place to get it from yet OK Good that you ve posted the part number of your matrix I ve compared its pinout with the one I use see the Tech Datasheets page for a PDF file Long story short the pinout is different The code expects all pins for red green and blue to be sorted consecutively and arranged in a certain way Have a look at Assembly Overview on my Projects Shop page So you have two options rewire the LED matrix change the interrupt code I d do the first Just make sure all red green and blue cathodes are sorted from 1 8 and end up on the right shift registers The same applies to the anodes Reply jan says May 14 2009 at 03 04 Thanks for the tips i ll leave the UDN2981A out the good news i suck at soldering i got rid off the missing lines and the top row has the right brightness now the bad news the bottom row is still brighter than the others could this be another bad solder joint and it s getting twice the voltage i ve checked everything they look good now and there seems to be blue missing every now and then e g in the random part and the color wave but it works in the smiley here s a video what it looks like right now http qik com video 1665950 i ve figured out the pinout by manually lighting up every LED so i think it s fine the way i have it or could it be the reason for the 2 problems thanks Reply robert says May 14 2009 at 04 13 That looks really strange Wrong pin order could cause wrong colors but the increased brightness in just one row strange Have you tested what happens if you set individual leds to the base colors I ve uploaded a modified test program on the Project page Disable demo and enable the function demo 2 in the loop function This should test the individual leds Led 0 0 red then green then blue then white Led 0 1 Oh and don t forget to adapt this to your order of shift registers in case you use my old schematics spi transfer B00000001 row spi transfer blue spi transfer green spi transfer red All new code is made for the updated schematics used for the boards I ordered at a FAB house Reply jan says May 14 2009 at 14 57 Alright today in daylight the situation looks different it wasn t one row being the bright it was one row being just right and the others being too dim I ve tested your other code this is what it looks like slowed it down a bit http qik com video 1668085 Red Green Blue Dim Orange White doesn t seem to work When i change the spi transfer order in your matrix code example all rows look as bright as the last row but what s going on on the matrix is completely different from what it should be btw i ve wired the setup on a breadboard according to this http www arduino cc en Tutorial ShiftOut The board looks like this now http is gd zNT3 Oh and i thought it was the right thing to do so i didn t put 24 resistors in front of all the column cathodes but 8 in front of the row anodes that s not the problem right Reply robert says May 14 2009 at 15 43 AHA that explains a lot Now I understand why the last row was always too bright If you wire it like the example in the playground you wire the OE output enable line to GND but my code needs that line to be wired to Arduino s pin 9 What happens is this While the display is redrawn inside the ISR function everything is OK but when this function is done so the Arduino has time to do something else in the loop function my code disables the display Why Outside the ISR the pulse width modulation to mix the colors doesn t happen anymore so all LEDs that were on before STAY ON static brightness is way too high Now to the resistors If you just use 8 resistors for the anodes the LEDs must share them If you have a look at the last video you can see that the first LED in a row seems to work all colors get turned on But as soon as more LEDs should turn on only red works The reason for this is The forward voltage for the red LED is much lower than for green and blue By using Ohm s law and 3 LEDs being in parallel you know that all get the same voltage If green and blue maybe need about 3V to turn on but red works with 1 8V it sucks away all the current so the green and blue LEDs are starved You must use 24 resistors so all the LEDs can work independently To get a good reproduction for white light I d start with 3 potentiometers for just 1 LED and determine the resistors so it looks good 24x 270Ohm worked for my Matrix you may need different ones Reply jan says May 14 2009 at 16 23 dang Thanks if it wasn t for the soldering i d buy a board from you Reply robert says May 14 2009 at 21 49 LOL Afraid of SMD Reply jan says May 14 2009 at 23 35 robert Taadaaa http qik com video 1670657 Ripped everything off the PCB and started soldering some connectors not a nice but smaller footprint with all the resistors in between Me afraid of SMD HELL YES I just got started with soldering and most of my joints still look like crap but i d really love to get it all on one PCB maybe one day Reply robert says May 15 2009 at 20 36 PCB no problem I used KICAD open source runs on windoze too to make the board Just download KICAD http kicad sourceforge net and the source files from my blog and modify the pin mapping reroute the board and send the files to http www seeedstudio com wiki and wait a bit There you can get 5 PCBs for 30 Reply jan says May 16 2009 at 02 55 Hmm sounds like a plan 30 is really inexpensive In the mean time i ve moved everything from the breadboard to thin air soldered a couple of hundred joints everything uses connectors and IC sockets now maybe i should have just soldered the components together directly but now it s modular and can be reused on a PCB Here s what the mess looks like now http twitpic com 58uel Thanks again for your support Reply Pingback Led Dirk s Blog Francis says August 21 2009 at 17 30 Thanks for the help Robert I got this working as you know a while ago but never got around to linking back Anyway here s the finished product http francisshanahan com www index php 2009 how to build a 8x8x3 led matrix with pwm using an arduino So much fun and would never have gotten it working without your help It sits proudly on my desk in my office today right now it s running a binary clock display which confounds all Rock on Reply Pingback Prototype PCB Soldering Demo 1 Chris says December 30 2009 at 06 20 Hi Robert excellent information btw I did have one quick question I am doing something similar but I m worried about sending too much current through the 595s Since you light an entire row at one time if all of the red LEDs are on in any given row about 11 8mA each according to your V3 schematic if your Vcc is 5V won t that use 94 4mA which exceeds the 75ma limit for the 595 Are your chips getting hot or even dying Or am I completely missing something obvious here Thanks in advance Reply robert says December 30 2009 at 08 54 The chips are not getting hot I doubt they d get hot even if you tried pulling 100mA out of them if it worked at all Their internal resistance is too high I ve just now measured the peak current for the red LEDs with my scope and it is about 5 5mA 1 5V voltage drop on the 270Ω resistors That stays way below the maximum Still you already see slight variation in brightness depending on how many LEDs are on per row Pulling about 50mA peak not effective out of a single pin is about the maximum it tolerates For more bang one really needs good and fast source drivers kind of hard to get with low turn on off times and small V CE sat and proper sink drivers much easier to find and get e g MBI5168 STP08CP05 both are current regulated or TPIC6C595 unregulated Reply Chris says December 30 2009 at 17 09 Ahh cool Yeah I had been looking at all of the chips you listed below especially the MBI5168 that you were discussing on your main page but here in the US I can t find suppliers for any of those in the DIP package except the TPIC6C595 I don t have surface mount soldering experience or equipment I ordered some UDN2981s to play with but as you discovered it looks like they are going to be a bit too slow to do good high speed switching Perhaps I ll grab some TPICs as well and play with them I have it working just fine but the brightness isn t what I d like I also ordered some resistor networks to make the board cleaner 8 isolated resistors in a single 16 pin DIP Reply robert says December 30 2009 at 18 37 Kingelectronics com sell the MBI5168 in a DIP16 package And no more soldering of millions of resistors Reply Chris says December 30 2009 at 22 40 Awesome I just ordered 15 of them For some reason I thought they were in the UK but after reading your post more closely I realize they are here in the US Can t wait to see how they work thanks again Great find on those Macroblock chips Reply robert says December 31 2009 at 12 40 Glad you ve found that out I d be happy to hear from you again once you ve had some time to deal with the chips I ll order mine soon but would like to hear if there are any traps to avoid Reply Chris says January 1 2010 at 03 00 Just a heads up I got an email from King Electronics

    Original URL path: http://blog.spitzenpfeil.org/wordpress/2008/09/21/8x8-rgb-matrix-first-prototype-on-perfboard/ (2016-02-10)
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  • DSO Teaser | My 2µF
    slope at some point and so forth The code is very simple I got the protoboard at elecfreaks Many different sizes very reasonably priced and good quality too Fortunately it doesn t have the sick smell of the cheaper paper rosin based boards This entry was posted in Electronics and tagged DSO oscilloscope pulse test jig trigger waveform generator Bookmark the permalink Lecroy WaveAce 224 Mini rant 1 Lecroy WaveAce 224 Mini rant 2 Maximum annoyance One Response to DSO Teaser Pingback Lecroy WaveAce 224 Mini rant 2 Maximum annoyance My 2µF Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published Required fields are marked Comment Notify me of followup comments via e mail Name Email Website Leave this field empty CAPTCHA Code Search for Recent Comments robert on YauDL Y et a nother u seless D ummy L oad Andrew Duckworth on YauDL Y et a nother u seless D ummy L oad robert on YOUYUE 858D hotair station BLDC Fan speed mod Serhii on YOUYUE 858D hotair station BLDC Fan speed mod Serhii on YOUYUE 858D hotair station BLDC Fan speed mod Archives Archives Select Month January 2016 1 December 2015 2 November 2015 3 October 2015 2 September 2015 10 July 2015 4 June 2015 5 May 2015 2 April 2015 5 March 2015 3 February 2015 2 January 2015 1 December 2014 2 November 2014 2 October 2014 3 September 2014 1 August 2014 2 July 2014 2 June 2014 2 May 2014 2 April 2014 4 March 2014 3 February 2014 2 January 2014 1 December 2013 3 November 2013 6 October 2013 3 August 2013 3 July 2013 2 June 2013 6 May 2013 6 February 2013 2 January 2013 5 December 2012 1 August 2012 2 July 2012 7 June

    Original URL path: http://blog.spitzenpfeil.org/wordpress/2012/04/23/dso-teaser/ (2016-02-10)
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  • Small project #4 — Serial Knob | My 2µF
    XX to program the chip XX can be 25 45 or 85 This entry was posted in Electronics and tagged ATtiny AVR encoder knob quadrature rotary Bookmark the permalink Small project 3 IR controlled MOSFET with PWM Small project 5 Pentax s5z LED ring for macro shots 11 Responses to Small project 4 Serial Knob Pingback Fun With Rotary Encoders adafruit industries blog kscharf says February 19 2013 at 14 11 With optical encoders you are asured of clean edges I ve used two interrupt pins to detect edge changes and built an encoder interface that way Newer AVR s have pin change interrupts and you can use this as a trigger and then poll to see which pin changed allows multiple encoders on one micro With switch mechanical encoders bounce is a problem but you can clean things up with 14 type inverters and an RC network For a dedicated encoder controller your approach is fine Hint if you are bit banging the serial port up the baud rate and use the timer interrupt to both poll the encoder and send receive data Reply robert says February 20 2013 at 05 51 Optical encoders cost a bit more cost was an issue here I could get higher rotation speeds out of them The mechanical ones max out pretty soon With a 1kHz timer I should get quite a high rate of revolution for a simple knob but the mechanical switches just don t deliver I should take a look at the waveform to see what happens Probably looks pretty awful Size was also an issue so I opted to go without any analog signal conditioning At least the quadrature signals don t require any debouncing with a timer approach Using a pin change interrupt without debouncing is a nice educational lesson I don t need this one anymore The push button needs some debouncing though Maybe a bit of bit shifting will suffice Of course I could have the timer take care of the data transmission as well but I don t see the point right now I only send single characters so no need for a buffer and non blocking writes either Upping the data rate sounds better I ll have to check the baud rate errors for 8MHz system clock first I only used 9600 as the other project for which this device was made as an upgrade uses that I could change the baud rate for everything but never change a running system Reply robert says June 4 2013 at 15 25 A happy customer Navid Gornall incorporated The Knob into one of his creations http navidgornall com blog make Reply Olfried says September 10 2014 at 21 40 Robert this is a great product no hassling with debugging either hardware nor software It took some time to understand what happens and how the knob works the function of the DIR Pin is unclear at all For all noobs of us here s an arduino example which uses SoftwareSerial Not sure if you have to add this to your library folder today the IDE tells you that SoftwareSerial is not defined so here s the code TestSerialKnob ino test the function of the SerialKnob http blog spitzenpfeil org wordpress 2013 02 17 small project 4 serial knob The circuit RX is digital pin 10 connect to TX of other device TX is digital pin 11 connect to RX of other device based on the switch case example from arduino cc http arduino cc en Tutorial SwitchCase2 and Software serial example http arduino cc en Tutorial SoftwareSerialExample by Olfried Joergensen September 10th 2014 tested on arduino pro mini 5V 16MHz ATMEGA 328 compiled with Arduino 1 0 5 r2 IDE This example code is in the public domain include SoftwareSerial h SoftwareSerial mySerial 10 11 RX TX int dircounter holds the actual number int oncounter to count how long the knob is pressed void setup initialize serial communication to arduino IDE Serial begin 9600 Serial println READY TO GO initialize serial communication to SerialKnob mySerial begin 9600 only 9600 is possible Serial println Softserial Ready void loop int inByte mySerial read read the Knob switch inByte case 0x2F the begin of pressing the knob Serial println Caught Begin break case 0xC2 Serial println CAUGHT AE char break case 0xAF Serial println CAUGHT OVERLINE char oncounter how long is the knob pressed break case 0x5C the end of pressing the knob Serial println CAUGHT END Serial print ONCOUNTER Serial println oncounter Serial print DIRCOUNTER Serial println dircounter oncounter 0 reset the oncounter for next events break case 0x2B Serial println CAUGHT dircounter 1 to the dircounter break case 0x2D Serial println CAUGHT dircounter 1 from the dircounter break default do nothing break if we pressed the knob for a longer time delete the dircounter if oncounter 6 dircounter 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 TestSerialKnob ino test the function of the SerialKnob http blog spitzenpfeil org wordpress 2013 02 17 small project 4 serial knob The circuit RX is digital pin 10 connect to TX of other device TX is digital pin 11 connect to RX of other device based on the switch case example from arduino cc http arduino cc en Tutorial SwitchCase2 and Software serial example http arduino cc en Tutorial SoftwareSerialExample by Olfried Joergensen September 10th 2014 tested on arduino pro mini 5V 16MHz ATMEGA 328 compiled with Arduino 1 0 5 r2 IDE This example code is in the public domain include SoftwareSerial h SoftwareSerial mySerial 10 11 RX TX int dircounter holds the actual number

    Original URL path: http://blog.spitzenpfeil.org/wordpress/2013/02/17/small-project-4-serial-knob/ (2016-02-10)
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  • Small project #2 — MBI5030 starter board | My 2µF
    t want to fight wires at least not during the coding debugging phase All you need is the chip onboard LEDs as indicators Later if everything works you may want to should actually test the chip with the real things And this board allows for that as well Pull a jumper and you can connect external LEDs with a supply voltage higher than VCC without blowing up the onboard LEDs reverse biased in that case If you wish you can get the design files 1 2 The latest circuit boards blue were ordered at hackvana This entry was posted in Electronics and tagged driver LED macroblock MBI5030 PWM Bookmark the permalink Small project 1 8bit breadboard port status indicator Small project 3 IR controlled MOSFET with PWM 2 Responses to Small project 2 MBI5030 starter board ben says February 24 2013 at 06 08 I d like to play with constant current drivers for high powered leds cree Lumileds bridgelux Lamina Ceramics etc etc How much current can this drive or do you have recommendation for a beefier source Reply robert says February 28 2013 at 11 27 This one can drive 90mA per channel up to 17V So it would be OK for chains of low to mid power LEDs If you re thinking about high power ones say 1W or 3W stars then you really need something else You can find pre made driver boards for these cheaply on ebay or dealextreme for example Some time ago I had a project with an IC that is quite commonly used in these switch mode drivers PT4115 Reply Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published Required fields are marked Comment Notify me of followup comments via e mail Name Email Website Leave this field empty CAPTCHA Code Search for Recent Comments robert on YauDL Y et a nother u seless D ummy L oad Andrew Duckworth on YauDL Y et a nother u seless D ummy L oad robert on YOUYUE 858D hotair station BLDC Fan speed mod Serhii on YOUYUE 858D hotair station BLDC Fan speed mod Serhii on YOUYUE 858D hotair station BLDC Fan speed mod Archives Archives Select Month January 2016 1 December 2015 2 November 2015 3 October 2015 2 September 2015 10 July 2015 4 June 2015 5 May 2015 2 April 2015 5 March 2015 3 February 2015 2 January 2015 1 December 2014 2 November 2014 2 October 2014 3 September 2014 1 August 2014 2 July 2014 2 June 2014 2 May 2014 2 April 2014 4 March 2014 3 February 2014 2 January 2014 1 December 2013 3 November 2013 6 October 2013 3 August 2013 3 July 2013 2 June 2013 6 May 2013 6 February 2013 2 January 2013 5 December 2012 1 August 2012 2 July 2012 7 June 2012 6 May 2012 5 April 2012 6 March 2012 2 February 2012 1 January 2012 3 December 2011 5 October 2011 2 September

    Original URL path: http://blog.spitzenpfeil.org/wordpress/2013/01/29/small-project-2-mbi5030-starter-board/ (2016-02-10)
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  • Small project #1 — 8bit breadboard port status indicator | My 2µF
    resolved Just in case you download the files Now I can just plug this board into a breadboard and start debugging code If wired up in the right way one only needs one additional wire to supply power The other pins should be right next to the LED driver s outputs Why two rows of LEDs you ask Simple The common pin can be either or GND In the first case the LED pins must go to GND to get light in the 2nd case they must go to the supply voltage The LEDs are wired up in such a way that either the top or the bottom row lights up It costs a bit more in parts but the great advantage is an almost complete absence of the need to rewire the whole thing for different LED driver types The one common pin wire doesn t count A couple of images of the latest version Assembly in 3 steps 1 LEDs first 2 Resistor arrays next 3 Finalize with pin header Use plenty of flux unless you re a masochist This entry was posted in Electronics and tagged breadboard GPIO indicator LED status Bookmark the permalink Find the bug Small project 2 MBI5030 starter board 2 Responses to Small project 1 8bit breadboard port status indicator Matthew Cook says August 10 2014 at 05 15 Hi I just wanted to say that this solution has helped me out so much I am using it right now on my breadboard to monitor the first 8 address pins on a Z80 Microprocessor which happen to mine up perfectly with the ground of the board What a great design Reply robert says August 10 2014 at 08 04 Glad you like it Making useful things is one of the best way of spending your time Reply Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published Required fields are marked Comment Notify me of followup comments via e mail Name Email Website Leave this field empty CAPTCHA Code Search for Recent Comments robert on YauDL Y et a nother u seless D ummy L oad Andrew Duckworth on YauDL Y et a nother u seless D ummy L oad robert on YOUYUE 858D hotair station BLDC Fan speed mod Serhii on YOUYUE 858D hotair station BLDC Fan speed mod Serhii on YOUYUE 858D hotair station BLDC Fan speed mod Archives Archives Select Month January 2016 1 December 2015 2 November 2015 3 October 2015 2 September 2015 10 July 2015 4 June 2015 5 May 2015 2 April 2015 5 March 2015 3 February 2015 2 January 2015 1 December 2014 2 November 2014 2 October 2014 3 September 2014 1 August 2014 2 July 2014 2 June 2014 2 May 2014 2 April 2014 4 March 2014 3 February 2014 2 January 2014 1 December 2013 3 November 2013 6 October 2013 3 August 2013 3 July 2013 2 June 2013 6 May 2013 6 February 2013 2 January

    Original URL path: http://blog.spitzenpfeil.org/wordpress/2013/01/28/small-project-1-8bit-breadboard-port-status-indicator/ (2016-02-10)
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